coldone
Jan 24, 2009, 06:45 PM
Today I replaced the failing control board in my gas furnace with a new, universal one. Here is the info:
Furnace: Trane XE 80 (model: American Standard, TDD060C936C1, back from 1996)
Old control board: White-Rogers 50A50-471
Replacement: White-Rogers 50A55-843
After I installed the new board and powered the system up, the fan started and the board displayed 5 flashes, which indicated "open flame rollout switch". No gas, no ignition.
After some investigative work, I realized that my furnace has no rollout sensor switch; the RO1 and RO2 connectors in the big 12-pin connector that goes to the board had no wires in them at all.
According to the manual that switch is a NC (normally closed) switch. So I fooled the board by simply shortening RO1 and RO2 pins in the connector by using a jumper cable included in the kit. That did the trick, and the furnace started fine.
My question: is this an appropriate, safe solution? I could not find anything in the installation manual about doing a permanent shortening trick.
TIA!
Furnace: Trane XE 80 (model: American Standard, TDD060C936C1, back from 1996)
Old control board: White-Rogers 50A50-471
Replacement: White-Rogers 50A55-843
After I installed the new board and powered the system up, the fan started and the board displayed 5 flashes, which indicated "open flame rollout switch". No gas, no ignition.
After some investigative work, I realized that my furnace has no rollout sensor switch; the RO1 and RO2 connectors in the big 12-pin connector that goes to the board had no wires in them at all.
According to the manual that switch is a NC (normally closed) switch. So I fooled the board by simply shortening RO1 and RO2 pins in the connector by using a jumper cable included in the kit. That did the trick, and the furnace started fine.
My question: is this an appropriate, safe solution? I could not find anything in the installation manual about doing a permanent shortening trick.
TIA!