Hi. I am trying to remove a stripped screw (ROberston head - square head)... with all the furstrating turning, it is now round...
I have tried using a tool from a hardware store (an extractor)... kinda looks like a drill bit with a cone shaped head...
Anyway... any ideas? Thanks..
I really need to preserve the wood from which I am extracting the screw...
Thanks

I have a Grabit extractor, and had to remove a stripped hot water handle screw once. It didn't seem to work, until I leaned into it with the power drill. You have to really get a good hole in the screw for the extractor head to work.
And also you have to lean into the extraction part too. But be ready to pull back (your weight, that is,) when you see it starting to work. Good luck!

I have a Grabit extractor, and had to remove a stripped hot water handle screw once. It didn't seem to work, until I leaned into it with the power drill. You have to really get a good hole in the screw for the extractor head to work.
and also you have to lean into the extraction part too. But be ready to pull back (your weight, that is,) when you see it starting to work. Good luck!

OK, I got the screw head out, but unforunately the screw is still inside the wood... as I mentioned, I need that scew hole (free of screws)...
How can I now get the headless screw out? It is protruding through the wood
About 1/8"...I tried using vise grips but cannot turn it..
the screw diameter is about 1/8"... will my extractor work on this? I heard that I can slice a slot across it (with a whirly blade or something like that)... then I can use a flat head screwdriver and twist it out like a regular flat head?
Thoughts??

Yea. There is a 1/4" diameter hole saw and possibly larger just for that purpose. Woodworking | Woodworking Plans | Woodworking Tools | Fine Woodworking Projects & Supplies (http://www.woodcraft.com) has them. I got one at a store near me.

Buy Screw Extractor, 1/4", Screw Extractors - Woodcraft.com (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=124210&FamilyID=983)

You basically use the hole saw over the screw. Then you can use a pair of plyers to get the screw out.

When done you glue in a dowell rod. Sand off flush and use the hole again. I did this on a bifold hinge.

Yea. There is a 1/4" diameter hole saw and possibly larger just for that purpose. Woodworking | Woodworking Plans | Woodworking Tools | Fine Woodworking Projects & Supplies (http://www.woodcraft.com) has them. I got one at a store near me.

Buy Screw Extractor, 1/4", Screw Extractors - Woodcraft.com (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=124210&FamilyID=983)

You basically use the hole saw over the screw. Then you can use a pair of plyers to get the screw out.

When done you glue in a dowell rod. Sand off flush and use the hole again. I did this on a bifold hinge.

Not sure I understand...
Do I use a screw extractor for the shank that is still in the wood? Or do I "hole saw" it out?
I used the extractor on the head, but cannot seem to get it in the top of the shank.

The vise grip you need is the long nose one in the lower half of the picture:

IRWIN Vise-Grip Fast Release™ Locking Pliers Sets (http://irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml;jsessionid=RPLY400PZJMPACQIUBSCF3QKBC QHQJCK?prodId=IrwinProd100304)

I don't quite know the length involved, but if you create a template say 1/4" thick and drill a hole in with the hole saw. You can then position the hole EXACTLY where you need to drill centered over the screw.

If the screw isn't too deep, it will just fall out.

Can you estimate the depth of the screw?

Do you have an approximate OD of the stripped portion?

A picture might help. Post using "Go advanced/manage attachments"

If your having trouble gripping the screw even after it's hole sawed, you can create flats with a dremel tool.

I was going to suggest cutting a slot in the head and using a regular screwdriver.

I once had like #10 nylon screws that broke off flush with an aluminum door (the clips that hold the screen/window), so I cut a very shallow groove into the nylon with a Dremel and used a very small screwdiver to remove it.

I'm not sure it will work in your case.

The vise grip you need is the long nose one in the lower half of the picture:

IRWIN Vise-Grip Fast Release™ Locking Pliers Sets (http://irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml;jsessionid=RPLY400PZJMPACQIUBSCF3QKBC QHQJCK?prodId=IrwinProd100304)

I don't quite know the length involved, but if you create a template say 1/4" thick and drill a hole in with the hole saw. You can then position the hole EXACTLY where you need to drill centered over the screw.

If the screw isn't too deep, it will just fall out.

Can you estimate the depth of the screw?

Do you have an approximate OD of the stripped portion?

A picture might help. Post using "Go advanced/manage attachments"

If your having trouble gripping the screw even after it's hole sawed, you can create flats with a dremel tool.

I was going to suggest cutting a slot in the head and using a regular screwdriver.

I once had liek #10 nylon screws that broke off flush with an aluminum door (the clips that hold the screen/window), so I cut a very shallow groove into the nylon with a Dremel and used a very small screwdiver to remove it.

I'm not sure it will work in your case.


The length of the embedded screw is about 1"....the OD is about 1/8"... even if I cut a slot with a Dremmel, the one screw seems to be wedged in to the other screw (that is also in the hole - next to the one I am trying to get out) - must have been an original error.
So, I would say, the screw maybe goes in 3/4 - 1"...but it is wedged in there tight...can't get it to turn at all.

I am worried that if I hole saw it out, will I get a dowel to fill that hole so that I can screw another screw (about 1" long) to grip?. it does not have to hold significant weight...
It is part of a handrail that screws the metal track (under the handrail)

When you say "template" what do you mean? Do I just get the 1/4" hole saw and cut out the offending screw? will that "release" it, sortaspeak? So that I can pull it out?

the length of the embedded screw is about 1"....the OD is about 1/8"....even if I cut a slot with a Dremmel, the one screw seems to be wedged in to the other screw (that is also in the hole - next to the one I am trying to get out) - must have been an original error.
so, I would say, the screw maybe goes in 3/4 - 1"...but it is wedged in there tight...can't get it to turn at all.

I am worried that if I hole saw it out, will I get a dowel to fill that hole so that I can screw another screw (about 1" long) to grip?..it does not have to hold significant weight...
it is part of a handrail that screws the metal track (under the handrail)

when you say "template" what do you mean? do I just get the 1/4" hole saw and cut out the offending screw? will that "release" it, sortaspeak? so that I can pull it out?

See photo...

For a second, let's say we are going to do it the HARD way and for argument's sake, the end to end largest distance is 3/8" of an inch. i.e. a 3/8 dowel rod will work.

Here is a link to a 5/16. They have 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8.

Note that these are hollow core with no starter bit. I've used them.

The problem is centering the drill. You can't without a jig of some sort.

The jig is nothing but say a piece of wood 1" x 6" x 1/4 thick with a hole drilled with the special bit somewhere near the center.

Normally, you have 1 screw to deal with. You have two which will make it much harder.

Put two brads in the ends of the piece of wood without coming through the 1/4" thick wood.

Now position the hole EXACTLY where you need to drill.

Now mark the depth on the shank or position it in the chuck such that it will stop at the chuck.

Now using the 1/4" pre-drilled hole as a guide, drill using the hole saw to the required depth.

Do whatever you can to remove the core.

Whether it's a screwdriver, A chisel or a Dremel, you should be able to create a nice clean hole in which a dowel pin will fit.

Usually it would be use something like "Gorilla glue" and insert the dowel plug so it sticks out of the hole a little.

Let dry.

Use the Dremel to cut off if you need to and/or use the sanding disk to sand it flush.

Done!

Just make sure you do a test fit on piece of scrap lumber.

If the longest dimension is say 1/2", then you'll have to find a conventional hole saw where the middle bit can be removed and do the same thing.

A variable speed drillwill be essential as well as good control of the depth.

There is no question, that this is a tough project, mainly because of the double screws.

Sometimes you can also drill a 1/32" hole(s)along side of the screw to make it easier to turn.

My post with an attached picture .PDF disappeared.

Here is the .PDF

Here is the .PDF

You drwaing is very accurate... the only view missing is the side view (which I have included in the photo)...

you drwaing is very accurate...the only view missing is the side view (which I have included in the photo)....

I can only find a 1/2 " hole saw...but even if I had a 1/4" hole saw... does it come as an attachment so that the hole saw blades are the most protruding part... if a drill bit is the guiding part, then I cannot use it, because by the time the hole saw blades make contact with the wood, the drill bit would have gone through the other side of the 1 1/2" railing...

No No NO NO No. My template is only 1/4" thick. It's temporarily tacked with nails to your 1-1/2" handrail. It already has a 1/2" hole drilled in it.

You remove the centering drill from the hole saw and use the template to center the hole saw.

Somewhere in these 2 threads there is the link for the 1/4" hole saw which is dubbed a "screw remover" which it really isn't.

Another wordy description. Take a scrap piece of wood about 1/4" thick and drill a hole the same size as the plug.
Position the scrap over the area with the two screws.

Tack nail into place.

Take the centering bit out of the hole saw and using the template to center the bit, carefully drill say 3/4 inch deep without penetrating the other side.

Now remove the plug by carving it out with a Dremel tool and/or the 1/4" outside diameter hollow drill (screw extracter).

Once the material and the screw shanks are removed, carefully cut a plug from a dowel rod to go in it's place (glued).

Here is the 1/4" hole saw again.

Buy Screw Extractor, 1/4", Screw Extractors - Woodcraft.com (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=124210&FamilyID=983)

One of their stores is close to me.

HOPEFULLY, you have the idea now?

Look at these arbors. LENOX® | HOLE SAW ARBORS & ACCESSORIES (http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Product/HOLE_SAW_ARBORS___ACCESSORIES.html)

All of the pilot bits are removable.

Agreed, they are difficult to control with the pilot bit removed. So instead of piloting with a small bit you guide with a piece of 1/4" thick wood that has a hole drilled in it the same size that you want to drill.

You can clamp or tack nail the piece of wood before drilling.

When I used the 1/4" hole saw (screw remover), I wanted it centered over the screw I was removing. It was a screw on a bi-fold hinge. I drilled a template and either tacked or used the other screw to temporarily hold the template in place while I drilled (hole sawed) with the broken off screw in the center of the hole saw.

Did what I could to remove the material within the core and removed the broken screw.

Glued 1/4 dowel rod. Cut it nearly flush with the door. Sanded. Re-attached hinge.

Yes... but now, where can I purcahse one of those "hole saw" cylinders? Thanks


Here is the 1/4" hole saw again.

Buy Screw Extractor, 1/4", Screw Extractors - Woodcraft.com (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=124210&FamilyID=983)

One of their stores is close to me.

HOPEFULLY, you have the idea now?

Look at these arbors. LENOX® | HOLE SAW ARBORS & ACCESSORIES (http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Product/HOLE_SAW_ARBORS___ACCESSORIES.html)

All of the pilot bits are removable.

Agreed, they are difficult to control with the pilot bit removed. So instead of piloting with a small bit you guide with a piece of 1/4" thick wood that has a hole drilled in it the same size that you want to drill.

You can clamp or tack nail the piece of wood before drilling.

When I used the 1/4" hole saw (screw remover), I wanted it centered over the screw I was removing. It was a screw on a bi-fold hinge. I drilled a template and either tacked or used the other screw to temporarily hold the template in place while I drilled (hole sawed) with the broken off screw in the center of the hole saw.

Did what I could to remove the material within the core and removed the broken screw.

Glued 1/4 dowel rod. Cut it nearly flush with the door. Sanded. Re-attached hinge.

Let me ask a question first.

What size hole plug would work for you. Give me an idea of the diameter and the length.

On that particular picture above, since that saw is about 1/4" in diameter it will fit in a standard 3/8" drill chuck. I think it's about 2 inches long if I remember. I didn't look at mine. Both sides are a saw, so it just gives you two cutting edges to use.

I do hope you now understand the purpose of the guide or template.

I just did a Google search restricting to .ca domain and got this;

Screw Extractor (http://woodworkingplans.ca/Screw-Extractor.html)