Model # GE Profile TFM22PRDA WW

Side by Side Refrigerator does NOT cool. The rear of the freezer compartment has about 2 incnes of ice/snow.

I removed the ice/snow but the refrigerator does not seem to be cooling at all.

Thanks

HAMPTON GA.-Does the fan inside the back wall run? If not it could be the reason,OR the defrost switch could be stuck in the defrost mode AND how is the thermostat settings ON the inside of the fridg. CHECK the condenser coil down under the fridg. Sometimes they get prety fuzzy and dirty,andif they can't cool down the freeon before it gets back to the compressor it don't help to cool either one, CHECK THESE ITEMS <HAVE A GOOD DAY AND GOD BLESS :: F.B.E.

Give it some sunglasses, a leather jacket, and a pack of cigarettes. It will then be the coolest fridge in town.

I'm sorry... I know this doesn't help. But I just couldn't help myself.

This could be one of several different things actually. Generally speaking when a refrigeration system begins to ice up at the evap coil I tend to look at the defrost control, temperature control, drain line or refrigerant charge. Since you mentioned that the unit had iced up I would start with the defrost control. If it has failed internally it would not allow the unit to cycle the compressor. To test this you would need, at the very least, an electrical meter and some asic knowledge of how to use it. Same with the testing the temperature controller. As far as most residential/light commercial appliances go, the condensate drain will empty underneath the unit and use the heat removed from the refrigerant to evaporate it. Checking the refrigerant charge is a lot more involved.
Most residential units do not supply access ports to attach a set of refrigerant gauges. To this this requires specific knowledge and tools. Not to mention that working with any refrigerant is illegal unless you are certified by the EPA.
Another possibility is that your compressor has failed due to the excessive ice build up. This can and will cause the liquid refrigerant to return to the compressor and "slug" it causing internal damage. At the better end of this scenario, your capacitor could have failed which is a much easier fix.


sometimes they get prety fuzzy and dirty,andif they can't cool down the freeon before it gets back to the compressor it dont help to cool either one, CHECK THESE ITEMS <HAVE A GOOD DAY AND GOD BLESS :: F.B.E.
I hate to nit-pick but that is actually backwards, the refrigerant flows from the compressor TO the condensing coil.

[QUOTE=MarkwithaK;1492348]This could be one of several different things actually. Generally speaking when a refrigeration system begins to ice up at the evap coil I tend to look at the defrost control, temperature control, drain line or refrigerant charge. Since you mentioned that the unit had iced up I would start with the defrost control. If it has failed internally it would not allow the unit to cycle the compressor. To test this you would need, at the very least, an electrical meter and some asic knowledge of how to use it. Same with the testing the temperature controller. As far as most residential/light commercial appliances go, the condensate drain will empty underneath the unit and use the heat removed from the refrigerant to evaporate it. Checking the refrigerant charge is a lot more involved.
Most residential units do not supply access ports to attach a set of refrigerant gauges. To this this requires specific knowledge and tools. Not to mention that working with any refrigerant is illegal unless you are certified by the EPA.
Another possibility is that your compressor has failed due to the excessive ice build up. This can and will cause the liquid refrigerant to return to the compressor and "slug" it causing internal damage. At the better end of this scenario, your capacitor could have failed which is a much easier fix.



Thanks for assistance in replying! I appreciate both of your replies. The Fan on the freezer side is working and the freezer compartment is MAXED out on the thermostat and it reaches 11 degrees, but still NOT cold enough to freeze anything and the refrigerator side won't go below 53 degrees. I cleaned(vacuumed) the coils but no help. The ice/snow combination still is building up on the freezer side. I "MAXED" out the thermostat to try and get it to cool. I have a question... If the freezer is down to 11 degrees, does that mean that the compressor is still functioning?

Thanks again to both of you, I do appreciate it.

Hampton, Georgia

HAMPTON GA.-Does the fan inside the back wall run?? If not it could be the reason,OR the defrost switch could be stuck in the defrost mode AND how is the thermostat settings ON the inside of the fridg.? CHECK the condensor coil down under the fridg. sometimes they get prety fuzzy and dirty,andif they can't cool down the freeon before it gets back to the compressor it dont help to cool either one, CHECK THESE ITEMS <HAVE A GOOD DAY AND GOD BLESS :: F.B.E.




Thanks for assistance in replying! I appreciate both of your replies. The Fan on the freezer side is working and the freezer compartment is MAXED out on the thermostat and it reaches 11 degrees, but still NOT cold enough to freeze anything and the refrigerator side won't go below 53 degrees. I cleaned(vacuumed) the coils but no help. The ice/snow combination still is building up on the freezer side. I "MAXED" out the thermostat to try and get it to cool. I have a question... If the freezer is down to 11 degrees, does that mean that the compressor is still functioning?

Thanks again to both of you,

Hampton, Georgia

If the evaporator behind the panel inside the back of the freezer section is frosting top to bottom, the compressor and refr. Charge are usually OK. It sound as though you have a defrost problem and the evaporator is covered with frost so that no air is moving to the refr. Section. Remove every thing from the freezer to allow acces to the back panel. Remove the back panel and observe the evaporator. If it is covered in ice, my first test would be to manually start a defrost and check from there. However, this is for an experienced tech because it requires some knowledge of the electronic control on this model GE refr. Be sure to unplug the refr. So, If you know how to use an ohmeter I would disconnect the defrost heater and check it with an ohmeter. (Glass tube at the bottom of the evap.) Should have some resistance maybe 10 to 30 ohms.

Pokefan - that is a very good answer <ibelieve that you are getting ( ga>)on the right track:: markwithak i think you need to reread the question asked by the poster and also take time to really read f.b.e.'sanswer :: have a good day and god bless f.b.e.

Usually when frost is built up in the freezer compartment it means one of these parts is defective. Defrost timer,defrost bimetal thermostat,or the heaters that defrost the evaporator in the freezer. When my Whirlpool Tech Care center runs a service call such as on your unit we replace all three parts since when one goes the other two are not far behind in going bad.

The part numbers are

WR50X122 (http://www.partadvantage.com/store/showpart/11067320)THERMOSTAT DEF

WR51X10031 (http://www.partadvantage.com/store/showpart/10458363)HEATER

WR9X489 (http://www.partadvantage.com/store/showpart/11063942)CONTROL DEFROST

Picture and descriptions are in the link below.

Part Advantage :: Category Search (http://www.partadvantage.com/store/categories/ge/TFM22PRDAWW)

NOTE: It is always possible the fan in the freezer is not working also but the frost will not build up because the self defrost feature is still working so I believe your problem is with the self defrost parts as listed above.

The defrost heater can e working. The timer can be working but if the condensate drain is clogged then it won't matter one bit. It will fill up and freeze one the refrigeration cycle starts back up. Eventually this will cause the coil to be a block of ice.


POKEFAN - THAT IS A VERY GOOD ANSWER <Ibelieve that you are getting ( GA>)on the right track:: MARKWITHAK I THINK YOU NEED TO REREAD THE QUESTION ASKED BY THE POSTER AND ALSO TAKE TIME TO REALLY READ F.B.E.'SANSWER :: HAVE A GOOD DAY AND GOD BLESS F.B.E.

I read it thoroughly. Both the OP and yours. I do this sort of work on a daily basis and I touched on the exact things I would first look to. And in reference to your comment you have the flow direction incorrect.

MARKWITHAK- I gave him some of the general causes,if you look the first I gave was the defrost and the fan ;; SAME ANSWERS AS YOURS JUST WORDED DIFFERENT<BOTH ON THE RIGHT TRACK ::
F.B.E.

Did you bye it from sears? If so, call the 800 number and ask for a junk technician. They changed there job titles and you need somebody who knows what they are talking about.

Make somebody else have a bad reputation for the moment. Your all wacked

I'm charles kane