I need two ferrlues for this small tee between two pilot safety valves. Manufacturer says that these parts are no longer avalible through them.

Does anyone know where I can get two of these flat sided ferrules? As you can see, someone jacked up the ones that are on it with all the burrs and what not.

Lowe's did not have any.

They look similar to Swagelock ferrules, but swagelock ferrules are 2 pieces. Tube Fitting Parts, Tools, and Accessories: Swagers, wrenches, and gap in spection gauges (http://www.swagelok.com/fittings/tube-fittings/tube-fitting-tools.htm)

http://www.krackeler.com/products/1182-Supplies/15622-Swagelok-Fittings-Stainless-Steel-or-Brass.htm

I know there are competetors.

Valco: http://www.vici.com/vfit/ferrules.php

Parker: http://www.smallparts.com/s/176-8952852-1944559?searchNodeID=16310161|468240&keywords=ferrules&x=0&y=0&Action=submit

Usually those ferrules are two piece and it looks as if the back piece is missing.

It's definitely a one piece ferrule. And I've come to find it's going to be a pill to replace. I've carried this thing all over town and nobody carries them...

To add insult to injury, there is no reason why these ferrules had to come off, I don't know why they tried to get them off, they would have fit in the new pilot valve just the way they are. But now they are all boogered up.

Can you take a shot of the other end?

Could this be a compression fitting?

Most of this type of ferrules is 2 piece. I'm concerned someone didn't do it right.

I've used the Swagelock versions.

Can you take a shot of the other end?

Could this be a compression fitting?

Most of this type of ferrules is 2 piece. I'm concerned someone didn't do it right.

I've used the Swagelock versions.

If you are talking about the other end of the "tee" where it threads into the grey pilot valve, it's the same as the exposed in, I just started it in the pilot valve for clearity. It too is burred up.

The nut on the bottom is over a regular compression ring.

This tee came out of a Vulcan convection oven with dual burners on both ends. As far as I know, this is the way it came from the factory. I had changed the pilot valves on the bottom oven about a year ago, and found no reason to try to get these ferrules off as the went right in the new valves. Someone who is new here tried to get the ferrules of and got them all chewed up as you can see.

The ferrule is stuck on there. But that is not my concern, as I will have to replace the ferrule anyway, I had planned on just cutting the old one off.

My problem is this male "nut" it's not a very common part. I have one of these nuts in my truck, I don't know where it came from, but I don't have an extra ferrule like this one.

I tried to order the tee thinking it might come with the nuts and ferrules, but I was informed that the tee is no longer avalible.

So I have two new pilot valves and no way to get the gas tee to fit into it without it leaking.

I'm sure something could be fabricated, but I'm trying to avoid this as I would need to jump through some hoops with the manufacturer, and check with my boss as not to void any UL listing.

Here are some additional pictures...

It also shows the pilot safety valve inlet.

Look at the TFN fitting here: Lenz: O-Ring Seal Tube Fittings (http://www.lenzinc.com/index.cfm?template=catalog&form_product=222)

On the aluminum thing, so you think a male to male flare fitting would fit properly in it. Find Gas Connector Fittings and other Gas Supply Lines at Aubuchon Hardware (http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52-296-gas-connector-fittings.aspx)

Flare is good thing for gas lines, that why I suspect the aluminum part is actually flare. I you put a male male flare fitting in the block, then you can connect a standard copper flared tube to it. This makes the most sense.

What do you think?

Look at the TFN fitting here: Lenz: O-Ring Seal Tube Fittings (http://www.lenzinc.com/index.cfm?template=catalog&form_product=222)


Flare is good thing for gas lines, that why I suspect the aluminum part is actually flare. I you put a male male flare fitting in the block, then you can connect a standard copper flared tube to it. This makes the most sense.

What do you think?

I had thought about this too. And it seems to be the most logical. In fact, I entertained this idea while at the Lowe's, but I couldn't find the male flare fitting for it. Of course, these are more common, and we may have some in the shop Monday. I also may be able to find one of these male flare fittings at the refrigeration supply that we go to.

I may give that a shot, then just construct a tee. Then check for leaks, if no leaks, then I can see no reason why it should be a problem. I'll run it by the boss on Monday.

You can look at this:

AN thread - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread)

Get maybe a 10-24 screw or 1/4-20 (7/16-20 for 1/4 inch) screw and compare the pitches. You may even be able to take the fitting to the hardware store and see if you can find a bolt to fit so you can get the thread size.

You can look here and see if the major diameter matches:

ANSI Screw and Nut Threads Size Chart - Engineers Edge (http://www.engineersedge.com/screw_threads_chart.htm)

You could measure the angle too by cutting a sliver of paper such that it has the same angle as the bottom of the fitting

Then put it on on some gridded paper as a right triangle and transfer the angle and use trig to figure out the angle.

Compression shouldn't be used in gas anyway. That's the major reason I'm concerned. Compression on aluminum tubing for pilots (1/8") on stoves seems to work. There isn't much choice at that size.