I posted previoulsy about my basement bathroom layout and got some great help. We have since, re-layed out the fixtures. I have attached the revised layout and am asking if the drains I have are acceptable. I would like to use the exist wye for the existing floor drain to tap everything into. It results in the main toilet line to turn back on itself and a large distance between the tub and sink.

I drew the drains with straight lines but know I need to use long sweep elbows.

Will this work? Do I need another AAV for the tub?

Thanks for the help.

I don't see a vent for the toilet and the sinks which should not be S traps and use P traps. On the T "sinks" and 1 1/2 inch should be up and over to going a main vent all tied in and vented The pipe angle from the double bowl sinks seems to be running the wrong direction. The crocked wash tub is also crocked under the toilet why?

I am planning on using a AAV on the sink and from what I have read, the tub is usually wet vented from the sink. Would I need another AAV for the tub or toilet since the distance is large

Yes, the vent to the sink is drawn wrong. It would come 90 off then then sweep back to the sink. The drawing tools were limited

The crocked wash tub is also crocked under the toilet why?

Not exactly sure what this means but the wash tub was just angled by the toilet to show it would sneak between the toilet flange and the san main.

Every fixture has to be vented somehow, no matter its distance to other vented fixtures.

In the plumbing system of the whole house, is there a vent that leads out the roof?
The reason I ask, is because AAV's only work to relieve negative pressure, but do nothing in the case of positive pressure.

There are several ways of roughing it in. This is what you would have to do under UPC. It is more complicated, every fixture has its own vent (red dot) and main 3" / 4" line ends with Clean Out behind tub. Toilet and main run in 3" / 4" pipe, all others in 2" pipe. Vent for sinks, tub in 1 1/2", vent for washer and toilet in 2". Where possible, vents can be combined no less than 48" above the floor.

The San main runs right to left on this image with the wall on the top of the image being an exterior wall.
The main vertical stack is at the stub wall at the 3'8" dimension.

I don't really want to run the vents all the way to the attic as I do not have a spot to run it through the main floor walls.

From the stuff I read on this site, it seemed like the normal rough in was to run the main to the toilet, branch off for the sink and then branch for the tub. The tub is then wet vented of from the sink, assuming the sink was vented (AAV)

The San main runs right to left on this image with the wall on hte top of the image being an exterior wall.
The main vertical stack is at the stub wall at the 3'8" dimension.

I don't really want to run the vents all the way to the attic as I do not have a spot to run it through the main floor walls.

From the stuff I read on this site, it seemed like the normal rough in was to run the main to the toilet, branch off for the sink and then branch for the tub. The tub is then wet vented of from the sink, assuming the sink was vented (AAV)

You are not listing your geo-location. Plumbers on this site are from all over the country. Code varies from State to State and from City to City. What is perfectly OK in Oklahoma City will not be OK in San Diego. I am sure other plumbers jump in and present other options.

I will rework that sketch for you...

Here is new sketch showing main sewer going R to L...

Thanks, I am in Grand Rapids, MI

I really did not want to cut into the san main that many times. Is there a way do use the exisitng floor drain wye (its a 4") similar to my initial sketch?

Thanks

Is there anything wrong with my initial sketch if I add a AAV to toilet or tub?

From reading even newer posts and questions, I don't see anything wrong with my initail sketch. Am I missing something?

THanks

Is there any problems with the "curves" in the runs of my initial sketch?

I posted previoulsy about my basement bathroom layout and got some great help. We have since, re-layed out the fixtures. I have attached the revised layout and am asking if the drain layout I have are acceptable. I would like to use the exist wye for the existing floor drain to tap everything into. It results in the main toilet line and sink drains to "curve" forming a "U". Is this acceptable as long as long sweeps and the proper slope is on the pipes.

I drew the drains with straight lines but know I need to use long sweep elbows.

Will this work? Do I need another AAV for the tub?

Thanks for the help.

Nate, if you have to make 180 degree turns, use 45 degree bends as shown in drawing below. By our Code, we have to have one Clean Out for every 135 degrees of bends. If you want to go by this rule, than install 2" C.O under the sink, below the drain inlet. As far as tub vent goes: I would definitely install one.

Thanks, Milo.

If I vent the sink and tub with AAV's (It's allowed here and I have locations to put them where they will be accessable), will this layout function well?

Milo,
Is there a recommended or minimum distance between the 45's

Np, there is not. But if you have space, space them out. You certainly don't want to put them next to each other.

Thanks, Milo.

If I use the 45's, AAV on sink and tub, do you see anythign else wrong with my layout?

It looks fine to me.

Would it be necessary to install a backwater check valve? My street drops way below my basement level within a couple hundred of my house so there would need to be a backup pretty close to my house.

Backups from the city sewer do occur but they are rare. Your sewer would have to back up in every house from yours to the lift station before it got to you. I'd say you were pretty safe from a street main back up unless your area's troubled by by a overloaded sewer after a heavy rain. Gopod luck, Tom

Speedball, thanks

Do you see any problems with my layout with a the corrections that milo suggested?


Another question, if I run a vent with an AAV at the tub and sink, should they be 1.5" or 2"

Speedball, thanks

Do you see any problems with my layout with a the corrections that milo suggested?


Another question, if I run a vent with an AAV at the tub and sink, should they be 1.5" or 2"
Sorry for the delay. My friend moved back from Kansas and I've been a wee bit busy.
Since you show the drain exiting out the left side that's the vent layout I'll comment on. I can find nothing to add on Milos lay out. All the fixtures , (including the toilet) have been vented. I figure if a plan will pass UPC it will pass any where.
Another question, if I run a vent with an AAV at the tub and sink, should they be 1.5" or 2 I would check your local building department to see if AAV's are allowed . If they are I would run the vents at 2". Good luck, Tom

Speedball

I have checked and AAVs are allowed.

I was asking on whether my original layout would work with using the 45s to make the turns to the toilet and sink and also adding the tub vent like Milo suggested.

I really don't want to run each fixture to the san main and either cut into it 4 times or replace 15 feet of it.


When connecting the old 4" cast iron to 4" pvc, does the steel banded coupler just connect to each pipe or are there any adapter required on the PVC end

Nate: they actually sell Fernco fitting 4"Cast Iron to 4"PVC. It has the rubber insert slightly thinner on PVC side and thicker on C.I. side. But if you have problem locating this specific fitting you could use regular C.I.x C.I. Fernco too. Just be careful when tightening so you don't crimp the metal band.

Thanks - Milo


I purchased the DWV fittings (ouch for 4") and layed them out. I have realized that in trying to use the existing floor drain wye for everything doesn't really make sense, there are just too many bends and i would have to rip a lot of concrete.

I am attaching a revised layout similar to what Milo suggested (should have listened sooner). I have broken it up into 2 mini groups. Its in the red

My questions are

1. I am assuming that tying into the main more than once is acceptable

2. Does the toilet line still need to be 4"

3. I will use an AAV on the toilet to vent it, will the AAV on the sink be enough for the tub to be wet vented or should it have its own AAV.

4. Are there any other issues?

Sorry, I posted the wrong image. This one is correct.

For some reason my previous question didn't come in on a new time. Please see previous post with questions and revised layout (bottom image with red)
Thanks

I went to the local plumbing store. The fernco adapter they had was a 4"x4" or a 4.5" x 4". Both of them only had the skinny metal clamp. From other posts, I think most suggest to use the adapter that have the solid metal around the rubber and then the skinny clamps.

Which one?

Is my latest layout acceptable?

I hope to start the bathroom this weekend. Is the latest layout with the revised red drain lines acceptable?

Also, my questions are

1. I am assuming that tying into the main more than once is acceptable

2. Does the toilet line still need to be 4"

3. I will use an AAV on the toilet to vent it, will the AAV on the sink be enough for the tub to be wet vented or should it have its own AAV.

4. Are there any other issues?