I have a Kenmore Elite Dryer that works fine, except it stopped heating. (Model # 110.82832100) I see people say, "check for continuity" of the heater element, the thermal fuse, the thermistor, the thermal cut-off, and/or the high limit thermostat.. . so, OK, I Bought the Multimeter, and am just poking it around and don't really know how to isolate what I need... to get any sort of meaningful measurement. Pluse even if I see a number I don't know what it means- open or closed (and I only see one steady reading, 11.8 from my thermistor when I place the prongs on each 'ear' of the part- the rest are 1 or 0 or the numbers just bounce around) . Please help!

Kasie dune - i hope that you have not blown your meter up , and that you didn't get a permanet hair curling:: ok i will lead you through the testing of the parts
Step by step:: #1- unplug the power cord from the wall ouylet:: the volt ohm meter should be set on the ( rx1 scale;; kind of study the meter before we start:: ok ready to start?? To test the heating coil< for grounding< disconnect both leads( wires) from the terminals on the heater< insert one of the meter probs into the heater terminals( where you removed the wires ) and touch the other prob to the outside of the duct there heater is in < if the meter reads hon the high end <the heater ois good if the needle swings toward the low end the heater coil is defective:: replace unit: if you have to replace the unit be very careful not to bend the coils when installing the new one to where you ground it out::: #2- to test the heater for a open circuit:: disconnect the wires to it and insert the meter probs into the terminals, if meter reads between 8 and 20 ohms <the heater is good, if the reading is high it is defective :: replace :; ok if its all ok replace the wires where you took them off::while you are there <lets test the heat protectors< #1- you will find them on the ducting <sometimes there are more then one <just look good :: leave the meter set the same for these test unless i tell you different:: ok now to do some testing:: to test the protectors< disconnect one of the leads( wires) frim the protector< and clip both of the probs ,to the terminals
If meter reads ( zero ) ohms protector is good<if it reads high <it is defective <replace : do the same on any others on the unit < on a three wire you test on the two outside terminals:: :#2- to test the thermostat switch:: hook wires back up that you took off :: disconnect both the leads from the thermostate< clip both meter probs to the terminals <turn the switch to any setting except the fluff dry seting < if meter reads ( zero ) the thermostat is good , if it reads high it is faulty< replace:: hook wires back up ::#3- to test the start switch:: disconnect the wires that goes to it that are heavy wires, clip ohm meter probs to the switch terminals, press the switch button< if meter reads ( zero) the switch is good<if it reads high it is defective< replace :: replace the wires:: #4- to test the timer< disconnect one of the wires to it and clip probs to the terminals ,turn timer knob to normal dry< if meter reads ( zero )ohms the switch is good if it reads high it is defective : replace :: if ok replace wires< ::: ok - i hope that this helps and you solve the problem < if you have any more problems <come back on tjis post and holler :: :: i wish you and yours a happy new year and a safe one <god bless ::: f.b.e.