Our furnace worked last night but this AM it didn't. It's a 3 year old Bryant 352MAV, installed horizontally.

It's giving error 32. I've spent much of the day working with it. I'm more than handy but don't really know much about hvac.

I found that the idiots that installed it (and who are now out of business) had the condenstation drain running uphilll a bit. It seemed to drain a bit anyway, as I found water on the ground at the end of the pipe, but also saw that the pipe was nearly full of water all the time. It must have had just the right slope to allow it to fill up and then drain.

So I cut the pipe and drained it. I've got it temp set up so that it'll drain into a one gallon pan. One questions is, how much water does it output; how long would it take to fill the gallon? I'll keep an eye on it.

But mainly it's still giving me error 32 and the furnace will not run.

I have taken the inner panel door off and the little purple fuse seems to be OK. If after removing the inner panel, I depress the black switch, or put the panel back on, the main blower seems to run for about 5 minutes, and then ends. I also tried the 'test components' routine on the sticker where you disconnect the R wire and short Com 24v and test/twin; nothing happened when I did that. Did I test it wrong?

So - the fault may not be the water in the pipe, but that'd be a error 32 candidate, as I understand it. Do I need to somehow reset the furnace? After the blower runs the LED is solid for a minute and then goes back to error 32.

None of the local hvac companies are avialable for days and it's pretty cold here. Hope I can get some tips.

Check the pressure switch assembly and hoses for condensate accumulation. When the heating cycle starts, try nudging the wires that are connected to the pressure switches. If the light stops blinking and the cycle continues, the pressure switch(es) are likely defective. 3 years old? Part will be in manufacturer warranty.

I will check those hoses etc. Is the heating cycle what starts when I depress the black switch? Then the blower runs for a few minutes and then ends. The burners never start.

I will check those hoses etc. Is the heating cycle what starts when I depress the black switch? Then the blower runs for a few minutes and then ends. The burners never start.What code is displayed at this time?

32. After the blower runs for a few minutes, it's steady for a minute and then starts with three fact and two slow.

Blower? Are you referring to the induced draft blower or the circulating blower?

It's the big one that pushes air into the furnace, circulating.

The induced draft blower, I guess that's the one behind the black plastic cover, which has two rounded and two square corners? I don't think I've heard that one go on.

Now we're getting somewhere... if the inducer does not run it will produce the fault code you are seeing (check service label). Will the inducer turn freely? Try the wheel in the center...

I'll go up there and check to see if I can spin it. If it does spin by hand, but does not turn when I push the black switch and the main blower goes, does that mean either the inducer motor or the brains that control the inducer motor are gone? I'm not sure when I should be seeing it 'go'.

Thanks for you input, by the way, super helpful.

You might also check the harness connector to assure it is securely engaged. If you have a voltmeter, we can determine the problem in pretty short order.

This website is terrible on the security side. It logged me out; didn't accept the password; when I reset the password, it jumped through a bunch of loops but never got me a new password. And the images used to verify that one is not a machine are super hard.

OK well I learned some more. First, I disconnected the smooth black drainage or whatever tubes that lead to the white plastic condenser unit and the larger one gave a good pop as some water got cleared out of the pipe. That really changed things. I found that yes the inductor would rotate and in fact it start up, and the burners came on. But within a minute the LED went from solid to code 32 again. Then the burners went off and the blowers turned off after a few minutes. I tried it twice and it was just the same.

Where does that leave me? I do have a volt meter and a helper.

Oh, 15 minutes later it sent the new password.

The next step is to assure proper condensate drainage. The white thing? It's a trap, and if it clogs the furnace will flood with condensate and shut down. Ideally, you should remove it and flush it thoroughly every Fall. While you're at it, take the pressure switch assembly loose from its mounting (one screw should do it) and shake it to see if it is holding water. Follow these steps and try heating again, post results.

OK, thanks. What does the pressure switch assembly look like? Is it the square-flat black plastic box that the thick/smooth rubber tube comes out of?

It resembles 2 canisters mounted to a bracket with an arrangement of hoses and 4 wires, mounted to the front of the inducer with a single screw. No need to disconnect wires/hoses, just take it loose from mount and shake it.

Does the white condenser trap come apart? I'd like to really clean it. More water came out but not sure if it's gummed up inside. The pressure switch assy seemed OK, didn't really see anything change with it when I shook it.

The next step is to assure proper condensate drainage. The white thing? It's a trap, and if it clogs the furnace will flood with condensate and shut down. Ideally, you should remove it and flush it thoroughly every Fall. While you're at it, take the pressure switch assembly loose from its mounting (one screw should do it) and shake it to see if it is holding water. Follow these steps and try heating again, post results.I wanted you to listen for water inside switches... the trap doesn't come apart, but can be removed. Disconnect hoses, squeeze the "ears" on the top sides, and tilt it out of the hole. Flush through all openings with water.

I didn't hear water in the switch - for sure at least. I did hear some water, a kind of big bloop, but wasn't sure it came from the switch, and couldn't repro. I'll try again when I go up there.

There is no obstruction in the trap, water goes right through. I kind of suspect the little hose which I imagine communicates pressure, but I can't see beyond the first inch deep, and have no idea what happens to it after that.

If nothing I do now helps, what is the likely issue, and fix?

And if there is water in the pressure switch what do I do about it? I can't shake it very well with all the wires and hoses connected to it.

We'll cross that bridge if/when we come to it... for now just flush the trap, check switch assembly for water, and try the heating again. I service units just like yours for a living and I am instructing you exactly as I would proceed in the same situation.

The next step would be to remove the front cover from the burner enclosure and run the unit. If successful, check intake for obstruction.

Nothing new re pressure switch; didn't hear any water.

But maybe a good new clue. I noticed this before but this time was really able to peg it. The inductor starts very slowly and maybe it's motor has a problem.

Goes like this:
Turn on thermostat. I hear something 'come on' in the furnace but nothing overt moves or changes.
After a minute or so, the inductor starts to just barely move.
After waiting a long time I encourage it to rotate by spinning. It gains in rpm very very slowly till finally it starts to really go. After a half minute or so of full speed on the inductor, the burners turn on. After a short while, in inductor seems to 'go out' and the burner stops. Somewhere in there the main convection blower kicks in but only for a while to clear out any residual heat (or so I imagine the rationale).

Prior to the inductor getting up to speed, the 32 code is blinking. At full speed the LED is fully on and steady; but 32 comes back after the short 'on' phase.

Good observation indeed. At this point, I would recommend calling in a pro - preferably a Bryant dealer. Five-year parts warranty on this unit is minimum, maybe more if you purchased an enhanced/extended warranty. Excessive "participation" on the part of the homeowner may compromise, if not void, these benefits.

That's not a great end point. I am not sure I'll be able to get a pro in before Dec 31, when I asked this AM.

You don't know what the issue might be? Is it possible that it simply a motor swap out thing? I am not sure the warranty is esp worth preserving, since the service techs are so unavailable and we have just over one year left on the warranty.

I am totally impressed by you, KC13. I am not at all impressed by Bryant. The whole setup seems gimcrack, way too easy to go wrong, and broken after just a couple of years. What brand do you recommend?

I work for a Bryant dealer, and I am very familiar with their equipment - as much as anyone in the local tri-state area. Any unit by any manufacturer can experience component failure during its lifetime. What you describe sounds like a faulty inducer motor - a motor that isn't manufactured by Bryant. If the motor feels extremely hot, it becomes the most likely culprit but not the only suspect. The inducer assembly is a rather costly part out-of-pocket - trust me, the warranty coverage is worth it. While it is unfortunate that you have experienced a problem with the unit, the overall quality of Bryant is the main reason I chose to work for one of their dealers, as well as equip my own home with Bryant. While it may "simply" be a motor swap-out, the procedure isn't simple. Replacement kits come with instructions; follow them closely if you choose to pursue this on your own. Check with a local Bryant distributor to see what, if any, assistance they may be able to offer regarding the parts warranty. Good luck!

OK, and thanks again.

Do you have any sense of what the labor would be on the inductor motor? If it's complex it's going to cost me a lot for that... the warranty is parts only if I'm not mistaken.

The other terrible thing is after one day of no heat, we're starting what will probably be a four day weekend for any company that might stock the part. To get a tech in with the part might take an extra week. What a nightmare.

I can troubleshoot, change the assembly and run-test the unit in under 1/2 hour; availability of parts is what makes a Bryant dealer your best bet. Be sure to mention the suspected part and have the product # handy.

Is Bryant still on Winton road. I guess Fred Habegger is dead by now. When they had a problem unit years ago I would run a plain no name truck and fix it for them. Did the same for Carrier. LOL Those were the days.

Still there. I'm not sure about Fred. Problem unit? Bryant? No way... :eek:

I remember when I had to call a engineer at the factory and explain why there aluminum condenser coils were failing back around 1973. He did not believe me so I sent him a sample. Little did they realise how much that error would cost the corporation. I still run one of those units with the aluminum outside condenser coil. The trick was to install a anode on the line feeding the coil then to a good ground. Engineers sometimes make huge mistakes then it is up to us in the field to figure out the cure. That is why I am classified as a field engineer by Carrier. I am way to old to be doing that stuff now. LOL

The difference between doctors and God? God doesn't think he's a doctor... can apply to engineers too.

A Bryant service tech was here today and he said that the inductor motor felt pretty stiff compared to a normal one, and will order a new one on Monday. That means it's going to be till Weds or so till the furnace is fixed, which is a real drag.

Can I lubricate the motor to get it working for a few days? I'm sure it's supposed to be self lubricated (and that's probably why it lasted 3 years) but it's not good having the heat off for the coldest week of the year.

I am not sure how to get the motor off. Three screws allow it to move and I can lubricate with triflow some parts which are then exposed, but to no effect. How do I get the motor completely out? The fan chamber seems to be sealed with silicone and I won't want to violate that. I've taken the black plastic hub off the outside but that does not get me far.

I will have the motor replaced but really want a temp solution for this if I can figure one out. I am very disappointed in the quality of this unit. We have company over for the week and it's a complete nightmare. Bryant was supposed to be open Weds but after the message saying that they'd be closed Thurs and Fri, it hung up. No parts for 4-5 days in the middle of winter; plus the same for new years I'm sure. No I am not impressed.

The problem might not be the motor, but the shaft seal behind the motor. If you can see it, you may try carefully pulling it forward on the motor shaft and out of the inducer housing. See what effect this has on the motor drag.

I can lubricate with triflow some

Triflow is good stuff if you can get it on the moving parts.

I can see a light grey 'patch' looking thing, maybe that's the seal? There is only about an inch between the motor and the inducer housing, or can I increase that? Is there no way to simply remove the motor (looking for magic).

The seal looks like a rubber disc, about the size of a quarter, and the motor shaft passes through it. Sorry, no magic, but removing the 3 motor mount screws may buy you a little more room to work with.

Temporary success, at least!

The seal was OK. I decided to pull on the inductor housing after pulling it's edge screws and found the silicone was not bonded very strongly. Then I could take it apart and really triflow the motor. I wasn't sure if my hand spinning of the rotor was smoother than when I first tried it, but on reassembly it spun up quite well.

I'm sure the motor still needs replacing but at least I can get some heat into the house for the next few days.

Thanks for the rather amazing help with this.

There are still quite a few things I don't get about the inductor design. Like, there are two large outlets from it. In my case, one goes up and vents outside. The other points down and is covered with a rubber cap. It was completely full of water. I can't see how it wouldn't stay full of water 'forever' and eventually become foul. Also the silicon seal, I guess applied at the factory with a regular caulk type gun, just seems so weak a barrier to the obviously significant moisture that gets whirled around in the inductor chamber. Won't it likely leak out at some point? Now it will for sure since I didn't reseal with silicone but frankly it seems quite mickey mouse. I am just amazed that these appliances are so delicate, by design.

I am just amazed that these appliances are so delicate, by design.

Actually I use the word Junk quite often.

Kc13 likes bryant; and maybe they are as good as they get. Do you have a brand that you think is 'solid', or better than bryant?

Actually all units are made for what is called the price point. All the parts are about the same and the only real difference is the name and some of the technology. We have tested most major brands here and that fact remains through out all brands and lines that are made by the same manufacturer. Example Carrier,Bryant,Payne,Day and Night, and others are all the same parent company. All equipment is designed to fail after so many cycles and what most people do not understand it is not the brand name you buy but the quality of the install that makes a good furnace better than a bad one.

....what most people do not understand it is not the brand name you buy but the quality of the install that makes a good furnace better than a bad one.
Very well said!

Our furnace worked last night but this AM it didn't. It's a 3 year old Bryant 352MAV, installed horizontally.

It's giving error 32. I've spent much of the day working with it. I'm more than handy but don't really know much about hvac.

I found that the idiots that installed it (and who are now out of business) had the condenstation drain running uphilll a bit. It seemed to drain a bit anyways, as I found water on the ground at the end of the pipe, but also saw that the pipe was nearly full of water all the time. It must have had just the right slope to allow it to fill up and then drain.

So I cut the pipe and drained it. I've got it temp set up so that it'll drain into a one gallon pan. One questions is, how much water does it output; how long would it take to fill the gallon? I'll keep an eye on it.

But mainly it's still giving me error 32 and the furnace will not run.

I have taken the inner panel door off and the little purple fuse seems to be ok. If after removing the inner panel, I depress the black switch, or put the panel back on, the main blower seems to run for about 5 minutes, and then ends. I also tried the 'test components' routine on the sticker where you disconnect the R wire and short Com 24v and test/twin; nothing happened when I did that. Did I test it wrong?

So - the fault may not be the water in the pipe, but that'd be a error 32 candidate, as I understand it. Do I need to somehow reset the furnace? After the blower runs the LED is solid for a minute and then goes back to error 32.

None of the local hvac companies are avialable for days and it's pretty cold here. Hope I can get some tips.


A high quality horizontal install in attic..

Our horizontal install does not look much like that. I see that image has a pan under the furnace - and now that I see how much moisture is generated by the unit we have, and how badly it is handled, I wish I had one. I might retrofit one. What doe that unit rest on? I mean, there are no legs visible. Our has two sheet metal boxes it rests on; kind of like inverted pan such as drywall installers use for mud.

It appears to be suspended from the rafters. Note the straps at the corners. That is how a good install should look. Granted the house looks like a newer construction. It is always easier to install when everything is open as opposed to retrofitted.

Sadly, an installation of that quality is more the exception than the rule. I've seen that one before - the home is located in Perfect World, CA. and it never runs because the climate is, well... perfect.;)

Yes the unit is suspended as they all should be. Retro fitting a pan might be a tuff job unless you can suspend yours and slip it under or figure a way to jack it up. This unit is basically installed to the minimum CABO style code. It has a safety walkway,light that can be turned on from the attic access,120 volt service outlet,furnace service disconnect,secondary overflow drip pan etc. I use this photo in class as a example.

Is suspended the way to go because it allows for a pan without penetrations? I might be able to suspend it.

On the other hand, I do get into the attic pretty often, so I'd see if there was water getting away from the unit... thus we might have a 'leak' but not likely a cascade of water (I think) and not much exposure to dry rot.

Can anyone tell me where the model number and serial number are located on this unit? I've looked into the two main chambers and don't find them.

Usually with the front main door removed there is a tag on the metal of the furnace usually above the burners or on the sides of the burner area up away from the burners.

OK, thanks, found it.