I have a REEM RGRA 07EMAEB fyrnace.

The blower motor comes on but doesn't suck enough to close the pressure switch. My exhaust and intakes are free of obstructions have proper termination, proper amount of elbows and my ptrap is working properly and draining.

I changed the inducer motor and pressure switch which changed nothing. My heat exchanger is not cracked nor leaking. I am confused why won't my inducer close the pressure switch?

Water or other blockage in switch hose?

Nope hose from blower to switch is free of water and pin holes

Try this: remove the exhaust from the inducer if it's not glued and run unit BRIEFLY to see if it works. Do the same with intake or burner box cover off.

I have already tried running the unit with the exhaust removed and the intake removed separately and together with no success.

Does the switch hose connect directly to the inducer housing? You mentioned that you replaced the inducer? Did you check the hose nipple on the housing for blockage?

Yes I verified the nipple on the inducer cassing and the nipple on the pressure switch all clear when checking my pressures I did so on the inducer cassing nipple then between the inducer and the pressure switch with an inline T I have a fluctuating -.5 to -.7'' instead of -1.3

Okay, garden-variety suggestions exhausted, time to start reaching. Is the inducer running at the proper speed? Check voltage to motor with inducer running-if you haven't already. Sounds like you have already given this more than the average college try.

Never thought of checking voltage... this motor has a 3 prong connector do I check between black and white?

Probably, the third line is probably a ground.

Actually the motor is grounded at the gas valve but ill check it out

What color is the third wire? It could be a two-speed motor. Perhaps it isn't running at the high-speed for some reason.

Black white and black

If motor has a label, look for rpm's-are two given?

actually 4 wires black, brown brown and white.
White to black = 120.9 v
brown to white = 5.7 v (both of them)

So power is good

No rating plate on blower but its only one speed I'm sure.

I put high temp silicone around the heat exchager cover gasket between the plate and blower now I have -1" of succion so the furnace will usually turn on but as soon as I put the front pannel on, succion drops and flame goes out

Check the amp draw as well. You can be getting proper voltage but your amp draw could be off.

Black = line hot, white = neutral, brown/brown = capacitor. Okay, here's another reach. What are the chances that the pressure switch has been replaced at some point... and it's not the right one? Perhaps a call to your friendly neighborhood distributor could produce an OEM part number for your unit. They will want your model number.

Pressure switch is fine it has been replaced and was ordered using my distributor and the furnace model number... as for the amp check how manny amps should I be drawing? Written in blower?

Yup. The name plate on the motor will list it's amp draw.

Reggie,
I have a Rheem Classic 90 plus 75k BTU. I am having the same problem as you. I am about to pull the blower out to check for a cracked heat exchanger. Replaced both pressure switch and draft unit. Does any one know what bad connection to Cap would do to fan speed. I suspect that is the problem but do not have enough knowledge of electric motor to make such a claim. BTW I did replace the Cap as well.

If by cap you mean the gasket the inducer blower mounts onto it will not affect the inducer blower speed. The problem is that if the seal isn't proper it will not be able to create enough succion in order to activate the pressure switch

Reggie,
Sorry for the shorthand as such. I meant capacitor. This is required for a single phase induction motor. Creates a lag in the phase of the magnetic field of the windings. This allows it spin. Was wondering if a bad connection would cause a out of phase problem thus less RPM. BTW did you slove your problem yet?

Hmm.. you are talking about the inducer blower? The small blower in the top compartment? As I don't recall ever seeing a capacitor on the inducer on
One of these models.

Yeah mine has the black and white wire plus two brown ones. The Cap is located in the blower section with two brown wires leading to opposite sides of the cap.

Yes you are right sorry that the model where they use the same capcitor... as far as I know the capacitor is not the problem as it is only used in the initial start up of the motor... umm when you pulled the inducer off did you have a look at the gasket? That was my problem and yes by replacing it I solved my problem

umm when you pulled the inducer off did you have a look at the gasket? That was my problem and yes by replacing it I solved my problem

I do not suspect that this is my problem. "Background" Furnace is 10 yrs old. Bought the house fall 2007. Furnace worked fine. Problems started this fall on start up worked off and on. Replaced pressure switch. Nope. Replaced inducer motor redid seal with gasket maker. When reinstalling new motor. Blew shop vaccuum exhaust both ways through heat exchanger. Just a bit of soot. Air through drain hoses. Water get to pump through drain hoses and P trap. Nothing blocking exhaust. Cut the pipe in two to be sure. Visual check of the top part of xchanger. Just have to check bottom part. Little more work on my part. Any thoughts, plus where did you get your manometer to measure the vaccuum.

Excuse me, did you say something about soot?

Yeah in the exchanger furnace LPG

Does this model have one pressure switch, or two?

Two and it is the draft one failing to close. Tested by jumping switch and all else is okay.

Is this switch NO or NC?

No

Have you tried running the unit with the hose disconnected from this switch? If not, try it for a few minutes. What happens?

Running the unit without which hose the vacuum hose from the blower to the ps... that will do nothing

My manometer was bought from my local supplier

Soot? Hmm... unusual... well my only thought might be the bottom heat exchanger. You have manny small holes with baffles in them if there is water it means there is a bloccage. At the same time you might as well take all the baffles out to check for a blockage

The switch needs the vacuum to close it in order to run. Which hose this is not clear?

Could the blockage occurred over the summer. The front end of the xchanger is plastic and well mounted(gasket glue) to the metal part of the exchanger. Suspect it is brittle and does not like to be pried on. I seen the metal ends you are talking of. These simply pull out?

A restricted heat exchanger may allow the unit to function with only one switch hose connected. The excessive vacuum would transfer through the cross-over hose. That was my point.

If I remember correctly both switches are individual (one positive goes to heat exchanger cassing and other negative going to inducer)

Yes there are good chances the cassing could be brittle and break

And these baffles do simply pull out but be careful it is thin alluminium which bends easilly

Do you have ac?

Reggie you are correct on the pressure switches. Can blow air or pass water to clean the baffles. I have AC. A frame coil over the exchanger but ac was not used this summer as we had a cool summer.

Yes air will most likelly work if its not a big bloccage and it shouldn't since you actually need speciall brushes which are expensive. If AC was not used than its unlikelly that bloccage occurred during summer unless you were very unlucky and humidity somehow created enough of a temp. change in order to loosen soot. Now when you talked about soot in the exchanger you meen primary (top) or secondary if the later inside or outside?>

Soot in the inductor fan and at the opening to the 2nd xchanger where the draft inductor mounts. It was a humid summer so it may have moved/loosen the soot.

Yeah its starting to sound like there is a bloccage... you shouldn't have soot there

Okay I will tear it apart tomorrow/Sat and hope to get the xchanger out so I can take a look for breaks then clean the exchanger. Suspect preivous owner never did any maintence on it based on other things in the house. Thx for the moment.

Sounds good keep me posted

Reggie,

There was some crap between heat xchangers found a small hole in the plastic where draft motor connect. Cleaned the secondary xchanger by takingout the inserts. Nothing really there. Is it possible that I have bad pressure switch. It is new one out of the box. I am running out of ideas short of buying a new furnace. I guess I will try to find a local shop to buy a manometer to measure the vac pressure. Any thoughts?

Before changing the furnace check your venting. Check length and number of elbows 45 are considered elbows in this case. Ill check the charts for length tomorrow but you should not have more than 6 elbows on 2 inch pipe.

This hole was where exactly? Between the exchanger and the inducer blower?

Reggie
The venting should not be an issue. The furance used to work with same vent. This is not a new install. Here how the vent goes 2 in. for 2 feet then 3 inch pipe to the just before the outside wall reduces back down to 2 inch. The 3 inch pipe section is 25 feet long with 4 elbows and the last section of 2 inch has two as well. I have a quick way to test your theory that it is the vent. I will follow up with another post with the results. As well I have a clear tube to make a homemade manometer to really see if I am lacking the 1.3 in wc.
The hole was in the plastic top side centre. There is a square corner that is formed for the hole that draft inducer attaches. The pastic is somewhat eaten away on the inside top side where the hole was formed. I did fix the hole by the way. I do not want to spend too much money in an 10 year old furnace. Been told that the furnace is only worth about 750 new wholesale about 3k installed or so. Would just like this winter out of it. I will post the results of my vent and pressure test. I will remove the draft motor to ensure I have a good seal. Thks of the help by the way.

Only got about 1.1in wc definitely not over 1 1/4 in wc to be near 1.3. The draft inducer motor was hot to the touch. I think I read somewhere that a bad Cap will affect the rpm of the fan. If I find I will post back here.

You your venting is fine... umm... you have a low wc reading but no reason for it... if the motor is hot is is forcing. Wow quite the dilemma!

Yeah it may seem to be forcing. Need to measure Amps to the motor. Stated 0.75 on the motor. If that is fine I need to measure it with a separate 110 power source to ensure that the control switch is not causing some phase shifting(affect rpm of motor). Plus I will double check my seal where the motor mounts to the heat xchanger for air leaks. There is two much air getting in there or the motor is not spinning fast enough. One or the other.

Did all the tests. The amps are well below the 0.75. No difference on sperate power source. The seal is fine to heat exchanger. Had it out again and filled it with water to check for leaks. There is none. Tested the fan, removed from the furnace no problem creating the 1.3 in wc had to slightly restrict incoming air. Tested all the way to full restriction. No problem. Replace blower on the furnace and remove the exhaust vent. Created the 1.3 no problem. Place the drain t on the blower and failed 1.3(flue part still off) t is clear. Hence the conculsiuon that too much air is getting to the blower hence not able to produce 1.3 in wc. Now to find out why!
Question is there some sort of restriction that should be in place that is no longer in the exchanger erroded etc. Maybe part of the debrise I remove when cleaning the exchanger.

Your inducer is not pulling enough vacuum for the pressure switch. So you have a bad blower, a restriction in either vent or combustion air, blockage in drain hoses, or blockage in heat exchanger(csused by the soot. By the way there should be no soot at all, this makes me think that your heat exchanger is plugged.) I don't really see any need to replace a ten year old rheem. They are (for the most part) a very good furnace. I think you would actually save money at this point by having a tech in to locate the problem.

What are the two green and one orange light on the board doing. What is one of the green lights flashing, is it flashing twice, telling you that the pressure switch is open. This really should be a simple fix(if it weren't for the soot). Please let me know what you think. I Really hope this can be solved without replacing furnace.

Intake and out vents are not blocked. No blockage in the exchanger. Had it completely apart clean the secondary exhanger as well. Have two blower motors a new one and a old one both fail to meet 1.3 wc. I would really like to solve it as well. 2700 dollars for the replacement plus install costs. BTW the drains are clear I can blow in them and water will come out of the p trap into the side pump( need to pump condense up and out as there is no floor drain. Any thoughts or tests I can try so I can at least narrow it down beforeI call a tech. Do not want to waste my money or their time on something I can do myself. Should the blower be drawing 0.75 amps as stated on the plate.

Concord 90+ I keep getting condensation between inducer and pressure switch hose

On the reem inducer there should have been a restrictor plate on the back where the inducer goes to the heatexchanger (I think this furance had one)
The amps should be below .75
Still sounds like there is something going on with the heatexchanger.
Have you tried to run it with the intake and exhaust off.
Just for thought is the house in a negative pressure try to run it with the windows open and door.
What have you done for heat. This post started Dec 12 If you wait any longer it will be warmer.
Just call in the pros. You have spent more $$$$ temp. heating the house.:confused::confused:

This sound right or what I have concluded. There is no restriction at all at the moment. You are right it soon will be warm, but this is not my only source of heat. My usual heating guy went out of business and a couple of other places wanted close to 200 dollars for the service call and could not come for 2 weeks. Thought I give on here a try. The intake is elbow in length not the problem. Taken off the vent that is not the problemeven cut in two to check for blockage. Water heater is right beside and there is piped in air from outside and it is not blocked. So the added restriction is the only thing that make sense based on what I have seen and the tests I have done.


On the reem inducer there should have been a restrictor plate on the back where the inducer goes to the heatexchanger (I think this furance had one)
the amps should be below .75
still sounds like there is something going on with the heatexchanger.
Have you tried to run it with the intake and exhaust off.
Just for thought is the house in a negitive presure try to run it with the windows open and door.
What have you done for heat. this post started Dec 12 If you wait any longer it will be warmer.
Just call in the pros. you have spent more $$$$ temp. heating the house.:confused::confused:

Are we talking about a rheem, or reem furnace. Im thinking of rheem/ruud. Please let me know. If it's a rheem, the bottom pressure switch will be a .4, and the top will be either .8, 1.11, 1.3, 1.5 depending on size of furnace. You say you have the 1.3. I have run into problems with rheem changing pressure switch recommendation. Have seen furnaces that came with 1.3, and even 1.5 but when it comes time to replace pressure switch, I call in and give model and serial number, and they send me a 1.11. Maybe call rheem back and see what they have to say. I think you may be able to just install a 1.11 pressure switch. This is pure speculation, do not take this advice to your lawyers..

If the furnace always worked with the 1.3 pressure swith(can you look on the old pressure switch, and it will tell what vacuum it was) then it should work now, meaning you have a definite problem somewhere. I think you have located the problem enough to help the heat tech solve the problem. But they will come in a do all of the test over just to make sure for themselves. It really is a cut and dry process. And they should be able to locate problem fairly quickly.

Thanks all for the help to everyone. greghvacguy is right from what I can tell. Knowing there is no restriction on flue, the only way to get proper vacuum is by restricting the air into the blower. Laws of Fluid mechs. Did a simple test of restricting and works fine. Will go to my HVAC shopon Monday and get a restrictor that greghvacguy is talking about. The service guy I had must be useful as to not have seen that when he check out the system before the heating season. Ah the world of the good the bad and the ulgy.

Please let us know what they say. Curious about this restrictor plate. Im not only here to give advice, but to learn also, and this sounds like something I should know about for future reference.

Will do. My dad used to be in the HVAC business so I really hate to call a tech( if you know what I mean). If it is beyond my ablities, sure no problem call in the pros. I however went the Engineering route. This has been a learning lesson for me as well. Like most things stupid simple things are usually the cause and all questions are easy if you know the answer.

Are you also reggie18, or are just helping them out. I get confused when a question is asked by one name, and then taken over by another name. Either way, I hope we can get this solved. Good luck and please keep us posted.

Nope not the same guy! My problem was the gasket in between the inducer and the heat exchanger which I fixed! He had done all the same steps as I did and we still could not figure it out! Like everyone else I thought it had to do with the exchanger but it is hard when you are not in front of the furnace itself.

Anyway hope that restrictor plate works... if you can could you post the model number of your furnace. I've actually never seen a rheem with a restrictor plate and would like to check it out.

Thanks

Will do if my locale HVAC has a clue as to what I am talking about my Model is
RGRA07EMAEB Rheem Classic 90 plus 75k BTU updraftwith 1/2hp blower if someone has a parts book with a number that would be great. If this part really do exist I think there is more than a few can learn from this one. BTW Reggie sorry for hijacking your thread as you stated you were having the same problem as me and thought you might be able to enlighten me. Will post tomorrow AM after talking to my HVAC shop.

Lol no problem as for taking over the thread just glad we could all learn and hopefully help out... all though This furnace is not very old and should not have a restrictor plate... are you on natural gas or propane?

Propane

Ah OK then there is a small possibility of a restrictor plate that could come with the conversion kit Armstrong have these as well

Sorry not shure if rheem has or had them on the inducer.I should have said check and see if you need one.I know Heil has them and have to take them off the old inducer.I have been out on calls where someone changed the inducer and never put it on and found the pressure switch will not close. Would be easer to fix this furnace if we can get in front of it.
Looks like we need a web cam... lol

Rheem doesn't have the restictor plate, like some furnaces do. Conversion kit comes with orifaces and gas vavle spring.

Sorry about the confusion Reggie, hope we can help the other guy.

No restrictor plate? If NASCAR gets wind of this, someone's gettin' DQ'd.

Okay here is the deal. Called the only authorized dealer in the city of 1 million for the restrictor. It does exist but not with the conversion kit. It comes with the draft inducer not by itself. BTW they were willing to sell me one for 465 plus tax. My mistake was not buying from them and being ripped off. I got the OEM part from Fasco through a electric motor dealer. Fasco does not add the restrictor it is Rheem themselves and charge an extra 200 dollars over what I paid for the same part. Damn expensive hole reducer. All this hassel to replace a simple noisy motor before it failed. Any one got a picture or specs of the reducer it would be greatly welcome. It would save me from doing the math calculations to figure it out myself.