We are replacing the floor in the bathroom. After we tore the old tile out which was on a raised mud type compound the commode flange is 15/16 " too high. This is before we put the new tile down on the cement floor. The flange will not come off. I do not know if it has been welded on or how is held on the pipe. It is not srewed to the floor. I will greatly appreciate any suggestions on how to remedy this situation without pouring some sort of floor again. Thank you in advance for all responses.

How easy it's going to be will depend upon the material the flange and pipe's made of. If this is a cast iron flange with a lead and oakum joint it will be fairly simple. However, If the pipe and flange are PVC or ABS and the flange is glued in you will have to cut it out and replace it with another flange. So, whadda you got? Tom

How easy it's gonna be will depend upon the material the flange and pipe's made of. If this is a cast iron flange with a lead and oakum joint it will be fairly simple. However, If the pipe and flange are PVC or ABS and the flange is glued in you will have to cut it out and replace it with another flange. So, whadda ya got?? Tom

Tom,
I believe it to be cast iron. I do not see any thing else holding it. I cannot tell if it is lead and oakum or not. I don't know what else it could be.
Thank you,
doitselfer

Put your tile down, then see how high the flange sits. Your easiest cure will be to shim the toilet. IF the top of the flange is not more than half inch above tile, then you will most likely not have to do anything. Just set the toilet with one wax ring and enjoy.

MGD77 said it: Proceed with new floor installation: 1/8" for thin set, 3/8" for floor tile = 1/2". Most of the toilets will absorb the additional 3/8".

I believe it to be cast iron. Milo just may be correct. The bowl might bvjust absorb the extra 3/8ths. Inch. But if it doesn't Here's How I lower a cast iron flange.
Take a short piece of 2 X 4 and began to tap around and ariund the flange. You don't have to tap too hard. Soon the lead joint will loosen and the flange will began to lower. Keep tapping around the flange until it's down against the tile. Now all you have to do is recaulk the lead joint,using a inside and outside caulking irons( #4 and5, again, don'tuse too much force. See image) Good luck and thanks for rating mjy answer. Tom

Milo just may be correct. The bowl might bvjust absorb the extra 3/8ths. inch. But if it doesn't Here's How I lower a cast iron flange.
Take a short piece of 2 X 4 and began to tap around and ariund the flange. You don't have to tap too hard. Soon the lead joint will loosen and the flange will began to lower. Keep tapping around the flange until it's down against the tile. Now all you have to do is recaulk the lead joint,using a inside and outside caulking irons( #4 and5, again, don'tuse too much force. see image) Good luck and thanks for rating mjy answer. Tom

I will try that tomorrow. It is at the Pastorium. I hope this works. I sincerely appreciate your help.
doitselfer


put your tile down, then see how high the flange sits. Your easiest cure will be to shim the toilet. IF the top of the flange is not more than half inch above tile, then you will most likely not have to do anything. Just set the toilet with one wax ring and enjoy.

Hello,
Thank you for your answer. I checked the distance from the top of tile to the top of the flange. It is 15/16". My first measurement was from floor to bottom of flange. I thought about shimming the stool, but hope that will not be necessary. If we do that we will raise the whole floor to make it look right. If that is the only way, we will do that. I had hopes that we could lower it or cut it off and put new flange on it. If it can be cut off, not sure how to cut it off.
Thank you,
doitselfer

Yes, indeed, you could lay one more layer of 1/2" ply of backing board. That would do the trick for sure...

Build up nthe entire floor when 10 minutes work will lower the flange? It might set with Milo but it seems like a lot of work for nothing to me.

I had hopes that we could lower it or cut it off and put new flange on it. If it can be cut off, not sure how to cut it off.
Once the flange has been lowereds you don't cut the cast iron pipe bring it down. What you do is take a adjustable wrench,(see image) set the jaws to just fit over the edge of the cast iron and proceed to "nibble" the pipe down to the flange with small bites. Simply take small bites going round and round the pipe until it's near the top of the flange,(don't mind the jagged edges they will be above the discharge and won't interfere ).
OInce the pipe's nibbled down take your caulking irons,(they can be rented at any rental place) and lightly recaulk the lead joint.
Now isn't that easier then replacing the entire floor? Good luck, Tom

Build up nthe entire floor when 10 minutes work will lower the flange? It might set with Milo but it seems like a lot of work for nothing to me.

Once the flange has been lowereds you don't cut the cast iron pipe bring it down. What you do is take a adjustable wrench,(see image) set the jaws to just fit over the edge of the cast iron and proceed to "nibble" the pipe down to the flange with small bites. Simply take small bites going round and round the pipe until it's near the top of the flange,(don't mind the jagged edges they will be above the discharge and won't interfere ).
OInce the pipe's nibbled down take your caulking irons,(they can be rented at any rental place) and lightly recaulk the lead joint.
Now isn't that easier then replacing the entire floor? Good luck, Tom

It sure does. I will try that maybe tomorrow. Hope I can get the flange lowered. Thank you so much. Doitselfer.

Keep in touch and let me know your progress. Good luck, Tom

Keep in touch and let me know your progress. Good luck, Tom

Tom,
I can drive the flange down and break the upper part off. I sincerely appreciate all of your great advice.
doitselfer

The lead joint will be loosened and will have to be recaulked lightly. Good luck and I'm glad a new floor wasn't necessary. Tom