My '92 Accord stopped working in the middle of the road and I was lucky enough to be near a parking lot so I pulled in. I got a jumper cable and tried to jump start the car but it did not work.
A few posts here talk about the CEL light either not coming on at all or staying on well after key on/ignition. But in my case, the CEL is 'normal'. It comes on when the key is turned on l and then goes away after 2 to 3 seconds, as expected. But still the car does not start.
I suspect an alternator issue but not sure. I am planning to check it out tomorrow. Any other issues you think/know could cause this?

I would not suspect the alternator as long as you still got a good voltage after you stalled. But you said you jump started it so that means you can not start the car after it stalled? Am I correct?

But is you jump started it and is already turning over, then it should start unless there is something missing.

Two things you need to start.

Fuel and spark. Check if you have fuel and it is being delivered to the pistons. You can check the pressure of the fuel before the injectors.

Then next, check for spark at the spark plug cables if you have . Be careful in handling high tension wires.. they are around 16,000 volts.

Be careful also on testing ignition coils, they do break when not jumping to ground. So make sure the test lead you are testing is near a ground for the spark to jump.

If you are not capable of doing these, then do not try it. It is dangerous.

Tnx 4 using AMHD,


Drcool :)

Perform tests, in Sections A and B, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563.html

Most likely, the Ignition Control Module and coil need replacing, if the engine cranks but won't start:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-4.html#post265896

These are problematic components on older Hondas. I recommend replacing them every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

All right - The car was towed and it seems the distributor rotor does not work. I understand that the distributor has to be replaced and I am quoted at $500 (parts + labor). Does a distributor cause this issue and is this price reasonable?