We have been having extremely high electric bills since we moced into our new home. $700 ++ We have been working on this issue for a year with our builder when an independent A/C company stumbled upon an issue, but can not find out why it is happening. Neighbors are paying around $300 to $375 per month

When the A/C shuts off, something is causing the heater to be energized which is pulling 80 Amps. The thought it was was the thermostats fighting themselves bouncing from heat to A/C. So we just set it to Cool, so this would not be a problem, but there has not been savings.

Please someone help me. Is there a crossed wire! Any ideas? If you help resolve it I will ask for your address so I can send you a nice gift card! I need this resolved!!

TH8321U1006 Thermostats
Bryant 13 Seer A/C System

Your description has to be wrong. The furnace 15 A fuse would blow. The AC fuse would blow too. 8 Amps might be OK, 80 doesn't make any sense.

What is the model of the Bryant furnace?

You mentioned "thermostats", like more than 1. Can you elaborate?

The tstat is a up to 3 heat/2 cool conventional and heat pump. You can't just hook up the wires and expect it to work. Some programming is going to be involved. Hope your up to it.

Might have to run through some checkout procedures too.

The only think I can think of is that you may have a heat pump system and the emergency heat is coming on when it's not supposed to. Time will tell.

Get the model number off the furnace nameplate.

I would also like to know the colors of the thermostat wires and which terminals they are connected to at each end.

Is your furnace strictly electric. You should be able to look at your electric meter outside and see how fast it spins. Shut down breakers one by one and see if any of them slow or stop the meter from spinning.

My first move would be to contact the electric company and have them come check their meter

Here is your manual

http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/PackedLit/69-1912ES.pdf

Here is the install manual

http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/PackedLit/69-1896EF.pdf

There could be many different items causing your problem.

Incorrect low voltage wiring
Incorrect setup settings


If your original dealer does not know how to correct this get a different dealer to do the repair. Then you can take all your utility overcharges and the bill from the new dealer that did the repair to your original dealer to see if they will cover the expense. If not and the $$$ is considerable I would take them to court.

I have three Bryant Purion A/C systems. The heaters are all electric. The elctric meter, unfortunately is a new style that does not have spinning wheels. It only has 5 digital bars and a digital number. However, I have had Pregress Energy do 2 energy audits, pressurize the house and check the meter. Everything was okay. The results were we were losing hundreds of dollars somewhere and the only items that could cause these issues are A/C or dryers. The dryer is fine, so we know it is the A/C.

I am sure I mixed up the number of AMPS, I am going by memory of what they were saying when they were here a couple of weeks ago. The big issues was for some reason, something was trigger the heater to energize itself.

I have attached pictures of the three outdoor units and the inside wiring of one of the units in the attic. This is the unit the A/C repaitr man notice the heater started to energize itself.

More pictures

I cannot tell much from the pictures. If the original company that installed this equipment in your new house cannot find the problem I would suggest calling another contractor. Trying to find a issue like you are having is just about impossible to find using a message board. You need to help of a QUALIFIED on site service person. A good on site service person with a amprobe should be able to find your large current draw problem in 15 minutes or less.

I feel sorry about your problem but from here I can be of little help.

Can you remove the cover and take another picture of image 2618? Turn off the furnace first at the breaker or emergency switch.

Since the tstat is armchair programmable, it easily pulls off the wall. Can you take a picture of the terminals exposed when you do that?

They should have left an install manual. Can you scan a pdf of the thermostat install page?

I can't find the install guide online. You have a heat pump. I can't figure out how many stages.

I'd like you to use the instructions here:

http://www.ntsupply.com/files/products/69-1896EF.pdf

and record the values of the following parameters:

0170 (System Type)
0200 (Aux heat)
0270 (Em cycle rate)
0340 (Rem sens)
0350 (HP comp lockout)
0360 (HP Aux lockout)

I believe I know what's wrong.

I sure am glad you do know what's wrong. I could tell nothing from the pictures. But you are probably correct in that the thermostat settings could be incorrect. Someone probably was playing with the settings. Happens all the time. LOL

Meanwhile, you can disconnect and cap the "E" wire, either at the stat or the furnace. If you do it at the furnace, wirenut both sides and write down what you did.

I think the settings are part of the solution, but not the entire solution.

It appears that there are probably two solutions to the problem at hand. There is a preferred solution and an alternate solution. The preferred is more complex.

I think we might be talking to ourselves. LOL

Nah, it's just more complicated than a toaster Toasters are getting more complicated these days. They have more than 2 controls.