I am installing a toilet in my basement bathroom. There has never been a toilet previously installed, so I am starting from new. There is a soil pipe sticking up from the concrete slab about 12 inches, it does not move and I assume that the soil pipe is attached to the closet bend beneath the concrete slab. I have many questions that I hope can be answered here. Do I cut the soil pipe off at the concrete slab surface leaving no pipe extending above the slab? Should I install the closet flange directly to the concrete slab and if so, can I use something like a tapcon screw to secure the flange to the slab? If I install the toilet to the closet flange attached to the concrete slab do I need to put something like thinset under the closet flange and toilet to act as a barrier between the toilet and concrete? What type of adhesive do I use to adhere the closet flange to the soil pipe? When/how would I use plastic plumber wedges? I have novice to medium handyman experience and hope to complete this installation on my own. I am fairly confident about putting the toilet together once I get it mounted in place. If you can help me, please provide a step-by-step process so that I can get this toilet secured to the floor.

Before you start... does the drain pipe work? Can you pour a bucket of water down it fairly quick without it backing up? (I don't know about the other stuff... but just wouldn't want you to get a whole lot done just to find out that pipe is blocked or closed off somehow) :)

I have not tested it yet but will do so now that you mention it. Thanks

Lotsa questions. Let's see if I can take them one at a time.

Do I cut the soil pipe off at the concrete slab surface leaving no pipe extending above the slab? Yes, Unless you're going to tile Then cut level with the tile floor.

Should I install the closet flange directly to the concrete slab and if so, can I use something like a tapcon screw to secure the flange to the slab? Although you didn't say I'm assuming the pipes are PVC and not cast iron. If you're going to leave the floor as it is you will prime and glue a PVC closet flange directly to the floor. The glue joint shoulod be enough to secure the bole but if you're concerned then you can use TapCons to secure it more.

If I install the toilet to the closet flange attached to the concrete slab do I need to put something like thinset under the closet flange and toilet to act as a barrier between the toilet and concrete? No!

What type of adhesive do I use to adhere the closet flange to the soil pipe? You will use ABS or PVC Cement and Primer depending on the type of pipe.

When/how would I use plastic plumber wedges? Plastic wedges, called shims, are used if the floor's uneven. They are used to keep the bowl from rocking.

If you can help me, please provide a step-by-step process so that I can get this toilet secured to the floor.
Setting a toilet is a simple job. Put the closet bolts in the flange slots. Now place the wax seal on the bottom of the stool and set the stool over the flange so the bolts come up through the holes in the base . Give the stool a twist to seat the seal. Now is the time,if you have china caps, to put the plastic locking wafer on the bolt first, Making sure the beveled side is down, now the washer and nut. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN as you can break the china. If you tighten it so that you can't twist it it's tight enough. Tie in the water and test for leaks. Final step is to take a small tube of DAP tub and tile caulk and grout around the base. Clean the excess off with a damp cloth. Congratulations, you have just set your commode. Hope this helps and thank you for rating my reply. Tom

Hi Ndt4me:

Tom should have answered most of your questions...

Only thing I wanted to add is that you can also install a twist and set flange (see picture) that fits inside the pipe you have there... otherwise you will need to chip out concrete from around the pipe so that you can get the new toilet flange hub to set deep enough so that you can cement on the new flange... unless plumber figured on this and placed foam or similar stuff around the pipe coming out of the ground.

If using the twist and set flange should just need to cut the pipe flush with tile floor and then install the flange. I would use the tapcon screws to tighten this down tight (will need to drill through tile using a 1/4" masonry drill bit).

I also found this website which has step by step instructions on installing a toilet... click on link.

Installing A New Toilet (http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/bath/projects/remod_w1/toilet/new_1/install.htm)

PS: After tightening the toilet bolts at base.. wait ten minutes and then cinch them down another 1/2 turn or so and then cut bolts, cinch another 1/4 turn and then install toilet caps.

Let us know if need more here...

MARK

Though Tom and Mark has explained every thing, I will also share the following link with you, Good Luck.

John

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/PDF/Free/021121078.pdf

John...

I loved the link... EXCEPT :p ... I saw the person using an 18" wrench at the nut of the flush valve assembly... this is not a horrible idea for the novice as this tool is sometimes required to change out or install a toilet flush valve, but is not needed in installing new toilet as the flush valve is always installed by the manufacturer.. never mind fact that when they do install flush valve they may need the size of the wrench to grab the flush valve nut, but they don't need the leverage provided by such a large tool!

I also noticed that the link suggested locking down the johnni bolts using the nuts that are used for installing the toilet bowl... Most johnni bolts only come with 1 pair of nuts... so don't want anyone now or in the future questioning that is all..? Most of the time we use plastic washers to lock the bolts in place... not nuts. However, not a bad idea for sure if people purchase these in advance!! Otherwise...great link for toilet install and increasing height of flange due to flange being below finish floor height!!

Always do a great job, John... just wanted to add my thoughts...

Thanks... MARK

Mark,

Good advise I will take note of and make correction to it in the feuture, Thanks.

Regards,
John

I loved the link... EXCEPT... I saw the person using an 18" wrench at the nut of the flush valve assembly... this is not a horrible idea for the novice as this tool is sometimes required to change out or install a toilet flush valve, but is not needed in installing new toilet as the flush valve is always installed by the manufacturer.. never mind fact that when they do install flush valve they may need the size of the wrench to grab the flush valve nut, but they don't need the leverage provided by such a large tool!
Yeah I saw it too. You don't use a 18" pipe wrench on a spud nut. They make spud wrenches for that, (see image) To add a bit to Marks post, it's a good idea to check the spud nut and snug it up. Sometimes we find that the manufacture will forget and leave them a little loose. This is especially true with Briggs toilets. Regards, Tom

I agree with both of you Mark and Tom that 18" pipe wrench should not be used, Tom I liked your advise to check the spud nut for thighness in this case we will be in safe mode, Thanks.

John