I would like to know how to rough in a shower valve

I will need more information go give you a precise answer as to how to install a shower valve. Things like is this in a new construction application or are you replacing an old one. Do you have copper piping or some other material pipe. Is this a tow handle faucet or a single handle faucet and it would not hurt to know the brand.

It's new construction

I will need more information go give you a precise answer as to how to install a shower valve. Things like is this in a new construction application or are you replacing an old one. Do you have copper piping or some other material pipe. is this a tow handle faucet or a single handle faucet and it would not hurt to know the brand.

I have copper piping and yes this is new construction

Oh yeah,
It's a hangrohe thermo balance II rough valve

I needed to know a bit more than this but I will try. The new valve has either threaded or sortieing ports to install the copper pipes to. If this is going over a tub it will have an arrow to show you which is the up position, Read the directions to see how far the valve should extend out of the finished wall. After you have the valve installed then run a pipe up the wall to the point that you want the shower head to be on the wall. Secure the pipe with a clamp at the top so that it will not move around. There is a fitting for this called a drop eared copper to iron pipe adapter ell, it has holes that you can screw to a support in the wall. Also after you determine the distance out from the wall for the valve also secure it at that distance onto a support behind the valve. Also leave some kind of pipe sticking out of the pipe where the shower head goes so it will not be covered over with tile of whatever.

Hi Johnnyz:

Letmetell you got you started.. let's see if I can finish it up here. Like he said, look for the shower valve markings indicating UP for shower and H for hot (on left) and C for cold (on right). If only for a shower valve, a PLUG should come with the valve (or you may need to purchase separately) to plug off the TUB outlet of valve.

I am asumming a shower valve only with 1/2" copper tubing supplies! However, you need to determine if 3/4" or 1/2" copper tubing is desired for installation. Higher volume available for 3/4" installation, but usually reserved to multi shower head installations... and you would need to have a pretty high volume of hot water available to accommodate this, too... SO, if planning multi heads...you need to check on much more than just installing a shower valve...OK?? Let us know...

Now, First, the shower valve has threaded inlets and outlets. Here, you will need to PRESOLDER threaded MALE ADAPTERS (see 1st picture below) onto copper pipe before installing them to the valve.

Then you will need to wrap 6-8 wraps of TEFLON TAPE clockwise around the adapters and then install them to the valve body.

Next, plan on referring to the instructions because the rough in plate (see 3rd picture) on the valve body will need to be set so it sits within a determined minimum or maximum depth relating the center of shower valve to the finished wall or the shower surround.. or as stated ON the instructions on the rough in plate (choose so finish wall falls somewhere in the middle of min. and max. numbers). Check out the following link to see min/max. picture... but still need to refer to YOUR instructions... ok?

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/images/prod/6/Hansgrohe-06623000-rw-40323-15549.JPG

Then want to install/solder the copper lines to the hot and cold water pipes and then install a drop ear elbow (see 2nd picture below) at the height you want to have your shower arm come out to (again, refer to instructions for heights... in my area we go about 80" off finish floor, but you may want lower).

You want to PRESOLDER the drop ear elbow onto the copper tubing as well... then cut it to length and install it to a piece of wood that spans the stud bay using screws through the drop ears AND then solder it to the valve... ;) Install a 1/2" x 6" black nipple with black cap into the drop ear elbow so tilers do not tile over the shower arm (as mentioned by letmetellyou).

Then you want to secure the valve body and pipes as needed to ensure a good stable job. Then test the job by air test or by turning on water (if I remember this valve correctly you can't test the shower pipe to drop ear elbow without installing the thermo-element... check on this! )

Lastly, you will want to FLUSH the valve body prior to installing the thermo element and finish trim to the shower valve. Here, you remove the screws from the rough in plate and you have someone PULSE the water supply so it purges any sediment/loose solder, etc. from the valve body into a towel or bucket. Then install thermo element and finish trim as required!

Let us know if you need more... ok?

MARK