Hello

Thanks for all the help with the shower rough in. I have a few more plumibing questions though. I'm roughing in my urinal and wanted to know if it needs a pee trap? Also is it OK to have two sanitary tee right on top of each other? The directions for the sink and urinal both want them roughed in at 17"-18". And finally my toilet rough in is about 11" from the finished wall. Is that fine? How to do you attach the ring to the concrete?

Thanks Again.

KOHLER: K-5016-ET: Dexter™ elongated urinal: Urinals: Fixtures: Bathroom (http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatalog/detail.jsp?prod_num=5016-ET)

is it OK to have two sanitary tee right on top of each other?Why stack the tees when you can simply install a sanitary cross. (see image).

I'm roughing in my urinal and wanted to know if it needs a pee trap? Your rear discharge urinal has a built in trap. Some bottom discharge urinals require a "P" trap but not yours. May I ask, why a urinal?

my toilet rough in is about 11" from the finished wall. Is that fine? How to do you attach the ring to the concrete?
A little tight but you have some "wiggle room" with the closet bolts. If you're concerned with the flange pulling up then the flange can be secured with Tap-Con screws to the cement. Good luck. Tom

Why stack the tees when you can simply install a sanitary cross

Why didn't I think of that?




Your rear discharge urinal has a built in trap. Some bottom discharge urinals require a "P" trap but not yours. May I ask, why a urinal?

No real good answer I just wanted one.


A little tight but you have some "wiggle room" with the closet bolts. If you're concerned with the flange pulling up then the flange can be secured with Tap-Con screws to the cement. Good luck. Tom

So the pvc cement is good enough? I believe the toilet needs 15" on each side does a urinal have any space codes?

Thanks

Your toilet being 11" away from finished wall - is exactly what you want

A sanitary cross is great as long as you can get to the top of the vent coming out of the top of the cross so you can unstop a stoppage below the cross. I you try to run a cable down on fixture it will only follow the line and more than likely go right through the cross and into the other fixture connected to the cross. But if you are using a cable with a drop head then that would work but not many home owner have a drop head cable.

What you just explained in your post #5 is very correct. Could not agree more. What we do in this situation: we install 2" tapped clean out "T" above the X-SanTee.

Hello

Thanks for all the help with the shower rough in. I have a few more plumibing questions though. I'm roughing in my urinal and wanted to know if it needs a pee trap? Also is it ok to have two sanitary tee right on top of each other? The the directions for the sink and urinal both want them roughed in at 17"-18".

Just so you know, the 17" measurement given by Kohler for the urinal is 17" to the rim of the urinal (to meet ADA requirements for publicly accessible bathroom facilities), not to the center of the drain.

In order to facilitate replacement, most (but not all) urinals should have the drain roughed in 10" below the desired height of the rim.

If you rough your drain in at 17", the rim of the urinal will be at 27", which may or may not be the best height for you.

A sanitary cross is great as long as you can get to the top of the vent coming out of the top of the cross so you can unstop a stoppage below the cross. I you try to run a cable down on fixture it will only follow the line and more than likely go right through the cross and into the other fixture connected to the cross. But if you are using a cable with a drop head then that would work but not many home owner have a drop head cable.
I agree with one exception. You don't attempt to snake a drain line by going in through the trap. That simply clears the lateral. To clear the drain line you go down the vent. Besides, any plumber on the job for more then two weeks knows enough not to snake back to back fixtures through the trap.

(Milo)What you just explained in your post #5 is very correct. Could not agree more. What we do in this situation: we install 2" tapped clean out "T" above the X-SanTee. Milo, the San tee is covered up by the wall. How do you plan on accessing the clean out that you would install above it?

Milo, the San tee is covered up by the wall. how do you plan on accessing the clean out that you would install above it?

A chrome clean-out cover if exposed, I imagine.

Or even better, put the partition cross w/the c/o tee on top of it in the wall behind the vanity and trap-arm over to the urinal.

Milo, the San tee is covered up by the wall. how do you plan on accessing the clean out that you would install above it?

Yes, Tom, it is just like explained in above post. We use C.O. cover. They are attached with s.s. screw directly into plug. The clean out may face opposing wall or under the sink cabinet. When facing to the cabinet, we don't even have to install clean out cover since the plug is hidden from view. When we rough-in for house that sits on slab, we are required by our Plumbing Code to install clean out on every plumbing fixture.

As I mentioned earlier, we don't snake too much through vents. We have the luxury of having clean outs.

And yes, I agree with you: Clean Out covers are not nice to look at !:D

[QUOTE=speedball1]I agree with one exception. You don't attempt to snake a drain line by going in through the trap. That simply clears the lateral. To clear the drain line you go down the vent. Besides, any plumber on the job for more then two weeks knows enough not to snake back to back fixtures through the trap.

I can return the favor and say that any plumber on the job for more than two weeks knows enough that you can not get to the drain line when the vent pipe has been re-vented back into the main vent. It is also hard to clean a lateral line from two fixtures that are back to back on an arm that come off the main vent. Plus multi-story buildings sometimes are hard to get down the vents, or if the vents have been off-set to the back of the roof line to get rid of the ugly vents sticking through the roof.

I can return the favor and say that any plumber on the job for more than two weeks knows enough that you can not get to the drain line when the vent pipe has been re-vented back into the main vent. It is also hard to clean a lateral line from two fixtures that are back to back on an arm that come off the main vent.
Let's look at them one atta time.

any plumber on the job for more than two weeks knows enough that you can not get to the drain line when the vent pipe has been re-vented back into the main vent.
1) And if he's been on the job longer then two weeks he'll take his machine up to the attic, locate the correct vent, cut the pipe and snake The line. After he would repair the cut with a shielded coupling.

It is also hard to clean a lateral line from two fixtures that are back to back on an arm that come off the main vent. BINGO! CORRECTAMUNDO! But we don't get into that situation. We don't use a cross if the fixtures have to run to the stack through a lateral. We use a double tee to pickup the arms. That way each lateral can be snaked. Don't you guys put them in the same way? Opps! Just remembered, you guys install stacked tees.
Regards and have a great week end, Tom

Tom maybe you need to know that not only do I have a contracting business I also have a repair business so I not only do work on the plumbing jobs that I install but I run into all kind of jobs, even a few of the DIY's that can be anything, and the reason for that is that Texas has a lot rural area that did not fall under any plumbing codes except for the sewage disposal, up till the last few years.
Also I was partly responsible for getting the use of twin ells, on the end of a lateral line between back to back lavatories, baned.

Tom I am only telling you this because I would like for you to understand that what I comment on on this site is not necessarily the way I do it, most of the time I am just giving another idea of the way things can be done.

Comments on this post
Iamgrowler disagrees: Tom, you need to take a step or two back and recognize that your way of doing things is only one way of doing things
Gee growler! Thanks for the reddy! Where did I go wrong? Letmetellu told me that snaking a revent was impossible,
any plumber on the job for more than two weeks knows enough that you can not get to the drain line when the vent pipe has been re-vented back into the main vent.
and I simply told him how it was done.
And if he's been on the job longer then two weeks he'll take his machine up to the attic, locate the correct vent, cut the pipe and snake The line. After he would repair the cut with a shielded coupling.
So you back the hell off and stay out of it!! If you're gunning for me then let's go back to the old air-gap argument where you do, indeed claim that your way is better. OH yeah I forgot! The askers complaints about counter top air gaps shot that claim all to pices.

Tom maybe you need to know that not only do I have a contracting business I also have a repair business OK! I'm inpressed.

Tom I am only telling you this because I would like for you to understand that what I comment on on this site is not necessarily the way I do it, most of the time I am just giving another idea of the way things can be done.
Not quite so! You were telling me that a operation that I had been doing for years was impossible to do.
any plumber on the job for more than two weeks knows enough that you can not get to the drain line when the vent pipe has been re-vented back into the main vent. and I told you how it was done. No slam on you. Simply being helpful.

Also I was partly responsible for getting the use of twin ells, on the end of a lateral line between back to back lavatories, baned.
Now I'm really impressed! Would you care to enlighten me as to the reason?
What's wrong with twin tees? I think they're kind of cute. When you look at them from the front they look like they're staring back at you.
A few posts back when you had a comment about me I asked you if you had a problem with me. Now might be a mighty good time for you to answer that question.
And while I've never owned my own business I've supervised some mighty big prejects involving five or six trucks of plumbers and helpers. Like I've stated, I've paid my dues. And know this, If anyone , and that includes experts, makes a false or misleading statement on the Plumbing Page they can expect to be corrected and if the information's dangerous they can expect to get deleted.
Letmetellu, I don't wish to hassle with you, it takes time away from answering questions, so if you just tell me what's eating you in a PM instead of out here in public, perhaps we can work it out. But let's get back to answering questions shall we?
Regards, Tom