1. The plumbing stack runs through a wall that I would like to remove
2. I pulled down the drywall ceiling and I see it runs from the basement straight up through the kitchen wall I would like to remove, then 90's towards the back of the house and then to a T joint for the shower drain which is galvanized... and then to a Y joint one drain for the toilet and sink then one for a vent.
3. I would like to remove all cast iron and galvanized down to the basement and couple it to existing cast iron pipe going into foundation
4. Where I want to run the new stack is 5 feet further through the kitchen ceiling than the existing cast iron.
5. Then in the basement ceiling I would have to 90 or possibly 45 it back to the existing stack running into the foundation


Does this sound OK to do? I have been in other houses in the neighborhood which are built the same way and some have this done. I am a do it yourselfer... I already have all the drain pipe exposed, is this a really difficult task? I guess it would be easiest to pull the toilet up and replace the toilet mount with pvc also correct?

Hi Jstewart:

Let's see...

Most important here will be that you run the WASTE line from the basement to the kitchen sink full size 2" pipe if you can....then, need the VENT to be within 5 to 6 feet of the sink before running vertical to attic.

The vent distance difference of 5 feet in ceiling is not an issue at all...what is an issue is that the kitchen sink vent needs to be within 5-6 feet of the ptrap under the sink (as stated above) and then that needs to run vertical and connect into 1.5" vent in attic!

45 degree fittings are best for waste lines. Also want to add full size cleanout under kitchen sink and wherever it makes the most sense to you (like where it connects into basement plumbing... ;) ).

Be clear that biggest issues here are the weight of the pipes in basement and in attic... be careful to support anything before you cut into it... especially if cutting into cast iron stacks... use riser clamps here if needed (see pic.) by putting 2"x4" studs under ears on hanger.

And probably not a bad idea to replace as much of the old pipes as possible, including the toilet flange.

OK.. I gave you what I could. If you have more questions or I was not clear about something let me know... glad to help... MARK

Well the kitchen sink will be under 5 feet away from the main stack is that sufficient ? I'm new to the plumbing stuff... just dripped solder on my arm beginning of this week... not too pleasant hehe. And I was reading in other posts the galvanized pipe on the vent would be OK to leave correct? Unless I notice obvious damage.

Hey J:

YUP... tradition seems to be leaving the galvanized VENT work most of the time unless, like you said, you see anything obvious... but do be thorough in checking... especially anywhere over a place there could be NEW CABINETS... ;)

And yes, if sink within 5 feet of the VENT, then will be good to go!

Come back and ask us anything you want too as you go. Glad to help... :)

MARK

.

These no hub couplings I can get at home depot? Or does it have to be a plumbing supply place?

And the pvc pipe to use replacing the stack does it have to be sch-40 pipe? Or something else? I'm familiar with the pipe just not in plumbing applications... I do underground utility stuff

Hey jstewart:

YUP... want shielded clamps (like proflex at home depot) or want 4 band clamps (only at a plumbing supply house).. see pics. Use these to transition from metal pipes to plastic pipes. The shielded clamps are a MUST if going from cast iron to plastic pipe... shielded or 4 band clamps will work fine for transition between galvanized and plastic pipe (or remove back to nearest thread and use a threaded adapter to transition over to plastic)!

And yes... want schedule 40 pipe and fittings. You don't want pressure fittings.

Let me know if need more... ;) Mark

Hey this advice helped me. I tried to rate the answer but it said I must spread some reputation around before giving it to master2008 AGAIN.. ha.

In my basement I have laundry tub that is sharing a drain with main floor kitchen. It is galvenized.

There is NO VENT in this system anywhere. I disconnected the link between kitchen and laundry tub and wanted to know how to do a temporary vent for the laundry (the kitchen drain system is completely separate now).

So for a temp vent in the basement on laundry tub.. I'll go with the galvenized that is already there and then transition to ABS (within 5' of laundry tub) using the rubber clamps highlighted above, and then a 5' vertical stub (taller than laundry sink) capped with an air admittance valve.

Knucklez