I have a few questions about soldering with leadless silver-based solder and MAPP gas. Its my large (relative to me) sized project. Say two lengths of copper (hot and cold) each 15 feet with 6 fittings.

For now, the copper is dry half-inch type L...

I find it takes a while to heat a joint to the point of solder melting and wicking into a joint. My flame is mostly tuned to the fitting where it overlaps. I wait and wait. I see the fitting discolor. Even the front of the torch tube is glowing red...

Does the flame ever get applied to the pipe while heating it up?

Maybe I am moving the flame to fast over the part?

Maybe I am too far away or too close?

How long?

Are there tell-tale signs when I am heating too much?

I have soldered a lot of copper pipes -- when you do it for a living you learn

I like applying heat on one side and solder on other -- and use damp rag to wipe off excess solder

I would recommend any of these sites -- last one is a good video

Copper in Your Home: Do It Yourself - Soldering School (http://www.copper.org/copperhome/DIY/doityourself_solderingschool.html)

Soldering Copper Pipe | Tips & Techniques | Reader's Digest (http://www.rd.com/18276/article18276.html)

Soldering Copper Pipes Tutorial (http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_3d_index.asp?page_id=35749917)

Please rate my answer -- Thank You

My bet is your not cleaning or fluxing the fittings and pipe. I hope I'm wrong.

The discoloring is the giveaway.

Practice soldering fittings on top of a pipe. Dry fit.Use wire brushes (single tool) made to clean the pipe and joint. Flux parts. Assemble.

Heat the fitting. Not the pipe. Test periodically if the joint is hot enough. When it is, take the torch away and run solder along the joint. The solder will be pulled in my cappilary action. Do not disturb joint while it's cooling.