View Full Version : Tapping into elecrical
kitch428
Apr 6, 2008, 01:59 PM
I need electrical in my garage to power my thru-wall exhaust fan I just purchased. I have just one outlet on that wall. It's GFCI.
My location is 10' away for the install. The ONLY spot I can put this fan.
Is it best to keep it on the CFCI circuit, or connect to house current from above the garage? Ie: crawl space above and down an outside wall. (PITA)
The way it looks to me, the easiest way is to cut open a 10' strip of drywall on the interior garage wall 27" high, and bore holes through each stud to run wire to the GFCI receptacal.
Is there any tips you can give me for those have been in this spot before?
The fan is a Broan 506, 10" 470 CFM 120V unit. The only wire I could find at the time was 10/2. Is this OK? Of course, the power will be cut before any work is performed.
Thanks in advance.
Stratmando
Apr 6, 2008, 07:12 PM
10/2 is fine, you could hook the fan to the Line or load side, I would do Line Side.
Fan could be on a switch, timer, or thermostat controlled.
kitch428
Apr 6, 2008, 08:38 PM
Do you mean rheostat controlled? Because I'd like to control fan speed with a dimmer switch even though the unit has it's own internal switch via chain pull. I was thinking a ceiling fan speed select switch between the source and the fan motor.
ceilingfanrepair
Apr 8, 2008, 05:33 PM
What is the amperage of the fan?
kitch428
Apr 8, 2008, 07:13 PM
I believe it's a little over 200w and 1.7 amps
ceilingfanrepair
Apr 9, 2008, 11:09 AM
You will need a fan control rated for at least 3 amps, most are smaller.
Stratmando
Apr 9, 2008, 11:45 AM
kitch428, You could have rheostat AND thermostat control.
kitch428
Apr 9, 2008, 07:36 PM
So, do you think the big box stores will carry what I need here?
ceilingfanrepair
Apr 9, 2008, 08:17 PM
I'm not sure, you can check and see. You might have to go to an electrical supply, or there are a bunch on eBay.
ceilingfanrepair
Apr 9, 2008, 08:21 PM
I'll add, technically you only need a control rated at around 2 amps, but I've burned out any number of solid state controls with well under the rated amperage, so I always err on the generous side.
kitch428
Apr 10, 2008, 07:55 PM
Thanks a lot. All of your responses have been helpful. I was at the BB store tonight and saw nothing more than standard ceiling fan dimmers and they were all rated at 600w, but only 1.5A. That was a good tip, ceilingfanrepair.
I'll be wiring the wall this weekend, so for now I'll put the box in and just install a standard wall switch until I get the switch I want.
ceilingfanrepair
Apr 11, 2008, 02:51 PM
600w = light dimmers. 1.5a = fan controls. I'm sure the ratings were a little confusing.
kitch428
Apr 14, 2008, 03:55 PM
Got my wall wired this weekend. All ruffed in. Even found a variable speed control switch from the company who sold me the fan! 3amp rating made by Broan.
Question: I'm going to be cutting a 10 1/4" hole through a hollow wall. I want each hole (sheet rock) exactly aligned with each other. Siding needs to come off the exterior wall first.
I'll be using my Roto-Zip to make the circular cuts just as I did to access the wall studs for electrical.
What steps should I take first?
The pilot hole for the spiral saw attachment (pivot point) is 1/8th". And all drill bits that size are only 3" long. ie: wall total thickness 4-1/2", no bit long enough to go straight through?
I want to mark my spot, if you will, before any cutting gets started. This is a one time cut you know?
Stratmando
Apr 14, 2008, 05:36 PM
I would drill a hole straight through Interior and Exterior wall(Plumb, square, perpendicular and all) this will be the reference. If a precise location is more important on the outside, drill outside in. I would not run wire until hole is cut, this way you may fish out of top or bottom within the wall.
If you don't know what's in the wall, you may find Plumbing, Electrical, Anything.
Good Luck.
kitch428
Apr 14, 2008, 07:34 PM
The wire is run between the studs now and left over is hanging out a cutout for the switch, which is a couple feet below the fan location.
I ran fish tape all up and down that section of the wall to feel for wire or plumbing and as suspected, nothing.
Yes, I could drill from outside or inside, but it seems I need a 1/8th x 6" drill bit to go clean through, but can't seem to find it, anywhere!
hkstroud
Apr 14, 2008, 09:19 PM
I take it that you want to cut a 10 1/4" circular hole through the exterior wall for you fan. My approach would be to cut out the hole on one side. Use a square to transfer the perimeter of that opening to the other wall. Place the cut out disc in that circle to find the center and drill the pilot hole to cut out that wall.
PS. It ain't going to be all that critical.
Stratmando
Apr 15, 2008, 07:27 AM
If you are using a Rotozip to cut the round opening. The center hole is more important than the circle? Whichever you feel will work for you.
kitch428
Apr 15, 2008, 06:44 PM
Thanks, fella's. Sorry for any confusion. I got all I need to do the job from Grainger.
Seems the smarter you are, the mind goes in 50 directions. Just cut the damn hole and be done with it lol.
Now I need some time to finish. When I do I'll post some pics.
Kitch.
jdeskd
Apr 23, 2008, 06:19 AM
On your GFCI you should hook into the line side. If there are anymore outlets on that circuit and you hook into the load side of the GFCI. It WILL NOT work. The fan would have to be behind the last outlet.
Wiring: You can make the holes for your wire in a Horizontal line around the garage. BUT I wouldn't. Go vertical into the attic an back down. You can cut a 2- 6' X 12 ' hole up by the top head. One above the the GFCI and one above where you want to put the fan. A lot less to patch and only 2 holes to drill. And I would add a couple of more outlets. If that's the only one.
Have a Great Day Please let me know if this helped
RCallelectric- Jeff
kitch428
Apr 23, 2008, 03:32 PM
I was just looking at the breaker box and the receptical I'll be tapping off is not GFI (or I don't think). It is labeled "garage and outside recepticals".
The other wall has the GFI receptical and shares with the kitchen and bathrooms.
I haven't tested yet to see if the outlet I'll be using is shared with that one. I'll get back to you on that.
Yes, I could have run wire vertical like the wire going to that outlet on the wall in question, but up above is floored in the crawl spaces and making access difficult.
I just took the easy way out and cut several 'discs' out of the drywall. Easy to put back in and patch IMO.
I put the fan in the wall on Sunday. I was only 1/8" off in cutout holes. Looks like a pro job to me. Very happy with it.
It's not connected to source yet, but getting close to that day. Thanks for the response, Jeff.
Stratmando
Apr 24, 2008, 05:22 AM
An earlier mention that said you had to go to the end of the line on the GFI, It can be at the GFI or any other GFI protected boxes, still I wouldn't put on GFI.
kitch428
Apr 26, 2008, 07:53 AM
On your GFCI you should hook into the line side. If there are anymore outlets on that circuit and you hook into the load side of the GFCI. It WILL NOT work. The fan would have to be behind the last outlet.
Wiring: You can make the holes for your wire in a Horizontal line around the garage. BUT I wouldn't. Go vertical into the attic an back down. You can cut a 2- 6' X 12 ' hole up by the top head. One above the the GFCI and one above where you want to put the fan. Alot less to patch and only 2 holes to drill. And I would add a couple of more outlets. If thats the only one.
Have a Great Day Please let me know if this helped
RCallelectric- Jeff
I have this fan completely wired now. It's running like it should. Variable switch works good too.
As mentioned earlier, I wasn't sure if this was on a GFCI, but the opposite wall has the trip switch receptacle. When tested, it shuts down the hole garage except overhead lighting.
So, the receptacle I wired the fan to must be on the end of the run on the GFI, as there was only wire going into it, and nothing going out.
I connected my wire in the same manner as it was connected from house wiring.
Should I have done different? If so, why exactly?
Stratmando
Apr 26, 2008, 11:54 AM
Sounds good, A new load doesn't have to be End of the line, You could have load side go out of box in 4 different directions, and all would be Protected(Can be Star OR Daisey Chain, even both.