I am remodeling LR. We are stacking a W/D or at least moving. The dryer is electric. Of course, we'll turn 220 lines off at the panel.

The goal is to move the outlet along the wall say 3-5 feet.

I want to re-use the current line as it is on an external wall. Line is in romex tacked to a stud (no doubt), then along the ceiling. I really can't crawl up to attic. I prefer not opening up the ceiling.

I think I have two options:

A- Cut wall, untack line, then reroute line through joists. The box will be a little higher (its currently 30 inches off the floor), but it would be within reach of the W/D stack.

B- I could use existing box as a junction. Add additional line to desired location. Then use a cover on the existing outlet.

What plan is best to meet residential code?
Are there constraints about height over the floor?
What are the requirements as I traverse the wall horizontally?
(Do I need to protect line in wall cavity? [ metal conduit / ground the conduit and box].

Thanks for guiding me here!

Based on both dryer and washer being 220 Volt models.
Both plans are OK. Fixed wiring is always preferred, but whatever you do with wiring plugged into a wall socket is up to you.
Inside a wall cavity it is best to use a plastic conduit. Alternative use a multicore cable properly fixed to the wall.
There is no maximum height for wiring above the floor. Only a minimum height.
Here in Europe we always install a rope-pull washer/dryer switch, to allow only one of the two appliances to run at any time to limit the power consumption in the system.
Alternatively you can install a second (separate) set of wiring to the fuse panel.
Note that a dryer consumes up to 3000 Watt (13.6 Amps at 220 Volt). And a washer up to 2800 Watt ( 12.7 Amps at 220 Volt). Here 16 and 25 Amps breakers are installed in fuse panels. Together dryer and washer require 26.3 Amps but you have to add to that the cut-in induction pulse current every time any of the motors restart. Together that can be up to 40 Amps!
Success!
;)

My comments are in BLUE:


Based on both dryer and washer being 220 Volt models.
Our washers are typically 120v. This is a stack unit and if it is one piece it is likely that there is only one feed for both. This would be a 120/240v feed.

Inside a wall cavity it is best to use a plastic conduit.
Inside a wall we use NM cable in 99.9% of applications. NOT conduit.

Alternative use a multicore cable properly fixed to the wall.
Cable CANNOT be fixed TO a wall surface where it is subject to damage.

There is no maximum height for wiring above the floor. Only a minimum height.
There is NO max or min height for wiring inside a wall.

Here in Europe we always install a rope-pull washer/dryer switch, to allow only one of the two appliances to run at any time to limit the power consumption in the system.
We do NOT have this here. In fact I've never seen nor heard of it.

Alternatively you can install a second (separate) set of wiring to the fuse panel.
Note that a dryer consumes up to 3000 Watt (13.6 Amps at 220 Volt). And a washer up to 2800 Watt ( 12.7 Amps at 220 Volt). Here 16 and 25 Amps breakers are installed in fuse panels. Together dryer and washer require 26.3 Amps but you have to add to that the cut-in induction pulse current every time any of the motors restart. Together that can be up to 40 Amps!
NONE of this applies in the US. All the spec for these units are different.




Credendovidis, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE get your codes and requirements straight before stating them as fact. VERY few of your EU codes apply, or are even close to the same as ours, here in the US.

It's nice to hear how things are done in other parts of the world, but not where they are incorrectly applied to our requirements.

Thanks.

Alpac,

Either way is fine. If you snake the cable then no securing is required and you just need to make sure it is out of harm's way.

What EXACTLY is the cable in question?
If it is an old "3-wire" cable with no ground then you CANNOT even extend it. You MUST run a new back to the panel.

VERY few of your EU codes apply, or are even close to the same as ours, here in the US. It's nice to hear how things are done in other parts of the world, but not where they are incorrectly applied to our requirements.
Who says this is a forum for gringo's only? The Internet is for all.
.
I lived myself several years in Mid America, where power is 110Volt, but had a washer/dryer stack of 220 Volt supply with two connectors.
.
Please please please do not behave as one of so many unsympathetic know-it-all-better Americans the rest of humanity dislikes so much...
The world REALLY is bigger than the US alone.
.
:D

Who says this is a forum for gringo's only? The Internet is for all.Yes, the internet IS, but this is a US based site. Unless it is obvious (by the terms used) or is stated explicitly, I will assume a poster is in the US.
If the site were written in Spanish you would have a valid point, and I would not be here since I don't speak the language. Since it IS written in English I will assume it is either US, Canadian, or UK based.





Please please please do not behave as one of so many unsympathetic know-it-all-better Americans the rest of humanity dislikes so much ...
The world REALLY is bigger than the US alone.
Obviously, but DO NOT lump me into your category because of a post on a US BASED DIY message board.



I would humbly suggest you ask where a poster is from before rattling off codes and standards from other countries. Either that, or you can start your own non-English based site and I would not be there to bother you.

I do see a problem by not knowing where the Poster is Located, Depending where they are from, would determine who is right.
When drilling through studs, you want to remain 1 1/4" from edge of stud or use nail plates. I am in the US, for last 25 years, 99.9% I do with conduit(Smurf(ENT), PVC, or EMT(metal).
I don't believe this is a US Only Site.

I don't believe this is a US Only Site.
I NEVER stated this was a US "only" site.
I said it was a US based site.

Stanforty, I stand corrected. Your right.