I have a 2000 Honda Civic and I checked both the alternator and the starter. Both were bad and I replaced both with good salvage yard parts. I have a fully charged battery and it is good. I got that just this past December. The car still won't start. When I first try it clicks, clicks, and clicks and the dash lights come on but nothing. When I try it again absolutely nothing happens. Not even the clicking.

I am stumped. I don't know much about cars to begin with and I've done a lot so far. Some of my family has suggested a few things but I still don't know. Someone even suggested the engine could be locked up and that would SUCK!!

Well I'm open to anything and thank you for any assistance you can provide.

Is it cranking or just clicking and the lights are dimming? Double check that all of the wires are securred and in the right spot.
Then have the battery tested using a load tester. Perhaps the battery is charged, but once a load is put on it poops out.

For both the starter and the alternator to go at the same time, I would think the battery isn't going to be much better.

How did you come to the conclusion that both the alternator and starter needed replacement? It's very odd that they both went at the same time. Were you having any problems with the vehicle prior to it not starting? Did you personally replace the starter and alternator or did someone else do it?

"Car (Starter Motor) Won't Crank"

. Make sure the battery is fully charged, before diagnosing starter problems.
. Make sure the gearshift is in Neutral or Park (automatic transmission) or the clutch pedal is depressed (manual transmission), if the starter motor does not turn at all when the switch is turned to Start.

1. If the starter motor doesn't turn, but the starter solenoid (relay) "clicks" when the ignition switch is turned to Start, the problem is with the battery, starter solenoid, or starter motor connections.
2. Disconnecting the negative battery cable first, clean battery terminals and cable connections with a battery terminal brush or with abrasive cloth. Also, check the battery ground cable connection to the body and engine. Apply silicone dielectric grease, when finished.
3. While the negative battery cable is disconnected, clean starter motor and starter solenoid connections. Apply silicone dielectric grease, when finished. Make sure all connections are secure. When installing the starter cable, make sure that the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out. Reconnect the negative battery terminal last.
4. If the starter motor spins but the engine is not cranking, the overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the starter motor must be replaced. Also, the ring gear on the flywheel or drive plate may be worn.
5. If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard when the switch is actuated, the battery is bad, the fusible link is burned (circuit is open), or the solenoid is defective.
6. In order to check the solenoid, put the transmission in Park and remove the push-on connector from the solenoid “S” terminal. Connect a jumper lead, or preferably a remote starter switch, between the positive battery terminal and the exposed “S” terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is fine and the problem is with the ignition switch, neutral start switch, or wiring. If the starter motor still does not operate, replace the solenoid.
7. If the starter motor cranks the engine slowly, ensure the battery is fully charged and all terminal connections are clean and tight. Then, check connections at the starter solenoid and battery ground. The engine will also crank slowly, if it's partially seized or has the wrong viscosity oil in it. Synthetic engine oil allows starter motors to turn the engine over easier and faster, thus promoting starting and reducing battery drain.