I have a one-piece shower insert that is in 10-year old house and after removing the SS cover to clean out the drain, I noticed that the plumber/builder must have over tightened the two screws that hold the cover on and subsequently cracked the flanges and it looks like he put in those plastic inserts in to repair or jerry rig the cracked flanges and now one of the screws will not tighten down to hold on the cover.

My question is, can this PVC piece be removed from the top so that it can be replaced with a new one?

The OD of the piece with the two screw flanges measures 4 1/4" and ID = 2 5/8" and it appears as though this piece is threaded on the outside since it looks like it screws into a threaded piece. The height of this piece is 1 1/2" and it has these markings on the top: PVC ASTM D2665 ABS ASTM D2661.

If this can be unscrewed, what tool is used and if not, suggestions please.

Thank you for your help!

AwannabeDIYer

Hi wannab:

What floor is the shower on..

massplumber2008:

Thanks for answering: The floor is part of fiberglass shower stall with a finished ceiling beneath the shower stall so that is reason I'd like to know if it can be removed from above.

Here is a picture of it:

6759

Thanks again for the help.

Hey Wannabe

Sorry... you may be able to loosen and even disconnect the strainer from the drain line from above (using an inside cutter) but you cannot install any shower strainers I know of without access to top AND bottom of the shower drain. I was just hoping that this was on the first floor.

If you open that ceiling let us know if you need any help removing the old strainer or installing the new one. Keep us posted. Thank you... Mark


.

Best thing you can do is remove the plastic anchor, fill the hole with a two part epoxy, build up around outside of the nipple with epoxy , let it harden and drill a new screw hole. Anything else is going to be a lot of work. Might not be pretty but you won't see it anyway. All it does is hold the cover in place.

You know... I lost site of that Harold... excellent idea! (I need to re-read before re-posting... ;) ) Thanks Harold.

Wannabe.. what do you say.. Or is that a crack I see in the bottom half of the strainer assembly (or a mold seam)??

I might have to take that back Mark. Look at the threads. Might be the angle but something sure looks cross threaded to me. Wannabe, if it ain't leaking leave it alone.

Hey Harold... clean your message box.. will not accept messages from anyone until you do. Talk soon... Mark

massplumber2008 & hkstroud:

Thank you for your help... sorry- I was away for a bit, but anyhow, there was no leaks that I know of (yet anyhow) and I don't think that the top piece is cross-threaded as it doesn't appear so... that you are seeing is a mold seam. The only reason I removed the cover was that it was clogged but that was easy to correct and then I saw the mess that the plumbers left me with.

Both of the flanges (is this the correct terminology), that is part of the mold, are cracked where it appears someone really put some muscle behind it and torqued the living daylights out of the screws. I tried last night using a brand name product (J.X. Wxld - replace x's with the right letters) and just tried taping the hole with a #10-24 tap but that did not work - did not hold.

I was afraid of that, that I would have to replace from below. But what are the threads for, as it sure looks like that top piece screws down and then seats against shower floor?

Also, could you guys explain what the parts are that we see in the picture? What are you calling the strainer. Sorry, but this is all very new but I do like getting in there and trying to figure things out and fixing things but sometimes need help for the experts or people that have already been through it before.

Thanks again and look forward to your replies!

"I was afraid of that, that I would have to replace from below. But what are the threads for, as it sure looks like that top piece screws down and then seats against shower floor?
" Nope that's not the shower floor, its another part from under the shower floor and it would turn if you tried to remove it. I think the guys gave you some good advice, you will never see the patched screw hole so take that approach. The only function of those two screws is to keep the strainer in place. I'd mix a small amount of plumbers epoxy and fill the hole and then drive the screw in.

Hey wannabe.

Like Harold said.. if not leaking do not replace the drain at this point. It is a lot of work.


The top of drain looks siliconed in place... you may actually be able to get it out using tools that allow you to grab the screw nubs and twist out... but finding a matching top part may be nearly impossible... and you may break seal/parts underneath if you crank to hard trying to remove the top part.

The JB weld did not work huh.. What about the epoxy putty Harold mentioned? What about just siliconing the strainer in place for now.. see if it lasts for awhile? Just that it is involved to replace.. and if not leaking, hate to see you go through so much work.. :(

A shower drain assembly includes the body of assembly, associated gaskets, and top part with strainer.

Let us know your thoughts... Mark

I like the idea of siliconing the strainer in place.

I understand your concerns as they are mine as well... don't really want to break something underneath if I can avoid it.

No, JB Wxld did not do it... think since it is in a wet area, the compound set, but when I went to tap it, it crumbled so I removed all weld and all other material from the molded screw flanges and mixed up two-part epoxy made specifically for plastics (I have not seen that before) and will let you know how it works out, so far it looks promising.

FIY, I also bought silicone (GeeEee brand Kitchen & Bath Silicone II) to lightly bead around the PVC at the shower floor and what a mess!! The stuff never set up and what a waste of time. I read from posts online from this year and past years that they have had many bad batches. Its pricey stuff and you'd expect it to perform and many recommend it and even going so far as to say it's the best silicone sealant on the market. I would say to avoid this stuff and buyer beware.

Well, there wasn't any silicone there before and I put some on right before I took the picture so don't think it was siliconed in place and not sure at this point I will try to unscrew it since really don't want the hassle of going in from the bottom to repair it, if need be. I do like the idea of siliconing in place if I need to do this at a later time.

Do you have suggestions for good silicone or silicone adhesive to use here?

Thanks again for your help and will post after I try drilling and taping the epoxy.

This stuff or any caulk with a mildewcide. DAP - KWIK SEAL PLUS Kitchen & Bath (http://www.dap.com/media/product_photos/KWIKSEALKitchen.aspx)

ballengerb1:

That's exactly what I got, the DAP, it seams to work quite well.

Well I just finished tapping the epoxy filled holes, lightly caulking around base, and installing the screen. The screws held (of course I din't torque the living out of them either) and all looks nice. The test is in the AM at shower time to put it to the test.

Thank you everybody for all the help, suggestions and support.

Look at the added benefit, you can take off the wannabe, you are a DIYer

:) "wannabe"DIYer is what I would like to be when it comes to sheetrock finishing. Now that is a true "art" when it comes to being a DIYer and if you have mastered that task you are no longer a wannabe.

Thanks again for the help.

I don't know if I'll ever master mudding but I've learned a few tricks of the trade that have made it a lot easier. Good luck with your next project. Bob

I know this is an old thread but I found the matching strainer at a place called Ferguson Plumbing Supplies in Suwanee, GA. They carry proflo products which matched up to my shower which is the same one as pictured above. I had tried about 5 plumbing supply stores before that one.

Hi Pauil and Welcome to The Plumbing Page. At AskMeHelpDesk.com. You're responding to a 4 year old dead thread and by this time the OP should have solved his problem, But but the information's useful and we thank you for it. Let's see some more answers from you. Regards, Tom

Does anyone know who makes this drain with the wide thread barrel? Attached is what I have and I need a replacement barrel with a wider thread. I contacted the builder and they have no records and HomeDepot and Lowe's part is too narrow thread. Ferguson said they did not know.

I know this is an old thread but I found the matching strainer at a place called Ferguson Plumbing Supplies in Suwanee, GA. They carry proflo products which matched up to my shower which is the same one as pictured above. I had tried about 5 plumbing supply stores before that one.

I also know this is an old thread, but thanks for this post. I had the same problem the OP had, and you seemingly had, and I couldn't find this part anywhere. The Sioux Chief brand sold at Lowe's and Home Depot didn't fit because of the threading, even though both were 2'' wide. I went to a local plumbing store and they only sold SC as well. I went to another local one and while it started to screw in properly it stopped halfway and would NOT go all the way on.

I finally found this thread, and then your post, and discovered that I also had a Ferguson store about an hour away in Greenville, SC. We went in and they gave us exactly what we needed and it worked absolutely perfectly. Thanks!!

Do you know the part #? I have the same problem and have been to local hardware stores, Ferguson Plumbing and a wholesale plumbing supply house. None of the parts I tried have fit properly.

The ProFlo you mention looks close, but I would like to have the part number, as there are three or four I could choose from.

Thank you.

Hey wannabe, get a rag, wrap it around your hand to avoid cutting it up, slide your hand in the hole and leveraging the posts that hold the cover screws unscrew the drain cap/funnel or whatever you want to call it. The only thing holding it in place is plumbers putty. I have the same issue and part and removed mine as I have a leak on the side due to dry rotted plumbers putty. I went to Home Depot and went online and am looking for an exact replacement part to screw back in with new plumbers putty and will also be using a silicone caulk to go around the outside lip to avoid future issues. I'll let you know how I mKe out or I mY rip the whole stall out and replace as it's twelve years old. Wish me luck and good luck with your project!a