View Full Version : Water line to water softener size.
Jonstar
Feb 26, 2008, 02:27 PM
I'm installing a water softener this weekend and I just had a quick question.
My service at my house comes in as 3/4" then is reduced to 1/2" at the water meter (in basement). From there it comes off and runs throughout the house and to the water heater, etc.
The water softener I have has a 3/4" inlet and 3/4" outlet... can I just put a reducer on this and run the 1/2" to the inlet and put another reducer on the outlet and run the 1/2" to the water heater?
Will this affect my pressure or should it just be fine once all the air is out of the system?
I was thinking it would be just fine but better safe than sorry!
Below is a diagram in case my wording is off a bit.
Thanks!
ballengerb1
Feb 26, 2008, 02:42 PM
Once you dropped down to 1/2" the volume is lowered from there on so yes you can use 1/2'X3/4" reducer. The correct way would be to stay 3/4" as far through the house as you can and only use 1/2" for the tap supply lines to fixtures. Did you notice that with your drawing you only have hot/soft water in your home, no cold. Most people now adays soften everything but the kitchen faucet and outside spogot.
Jonstar
Feb 26, 2008, 03:31 PM
Sorry, the diagram is only supposed to show how all my current lines (just before and after the meter) are 1/2". What I was trying to show was how there is a 3/4" in and out on the water softener but all my lines are 1/2".
What I wanted to know was can I expand the 1/2" to 3/4" going into the water softener and reduce the 3/4" coming out to 1/2"....it's that or I'm going to have to bring in the utility to put a new meter on (one that doesn't bring my line down to 1/2" right out of the concrete)...
I will be running both hot and cold from the softener and plan on having my outside tap not plumbed into it.
ballengerb1
Feb 26, 2008, 04:01 PM
Jon, I did answer that question "yes you can use 1/2'X3/4" reducer" However, the best fix is to go back to the meter and come off it with 3/4", someone put in a reducer right at the meter to go down to 1/2". You would need to be able to shut down your main prior to the meter to make that switch so its up to how your meter was plumbed to know if the utility company is needed.
Jonstar
Feb 26, 2008, 04:06 PM
Sorry about that!
I think I'm going to have to go the reducer way... the actual meter has a 1/2" in and 1/2" out so I'd need a whole new meter from the town... it's an old house with old plumbing and time doesn't permit me doing a whole re-plumbing...
Thanks for your help!
ballengerb1
Feb 26, 2008, 04:08 PM
OH I thought it was 3/4 in and 1/2 out. You'll need more than a meter, the city supply sounds like its 1/2", pretty unusual.
Jonstar
Feb 26, 2008, 04:33 PM
I just took some measurements and yes, I'll need a new meter... but 3/4" comes in from the city...
The meter actually says 5/8" on it... it's old too...
Wow.
Jonstar
Feb 27, 2008, 07:10 AM
I'm curious if I should call the utility and have them replace the meter.
Should it be a 3/4" in and 3/4" out? Is that more common now? (I'm not knowledgeable with meters, etc)
Could I just take off the threaded fitting on both ends of the meter and replace it with one that will adapt a 3/4" inlet to the 5/8" it requires then on the outlet do the same but go from 5/8" to 3/4"? It would be better than 1/2" but it means I'm playing with the meter...
Past experiences with the local utility anyone?
Jonstar
Feb 27, 2008, 07:30 AM
Never mind... looks like I'm going to have to live with what I have for a few more months... The local utility takes care of billing where I am but the county owns the meter, etc. So they'd have to come in to address any issues with the meter.
Currently I'm finishing off my basement (sans permit - I know, I know :rolleyes: ) and I don't want to open that can of worms since I'm almost done framing :o
ballengerb1
Feb 27, 2008, 07:38 AM
Whoever installed the 3/4 to 1/2 was the guy who caused your problem. No reason for that other than 1/2 is cheaper. Once you get that reducer out and the meter is 3/4 in and out you can start looking into what you need to do to make your trunk lines all 3/4. What you have will work but not well if muiltiple people all use fixtures at the same time. Replacing with 3/4 may only give improved performance that a plumber or my wife might notice.