My 95 Honda Civic EX 1.6l has been “stammering” at stop lights after warming up and “stammers” pulling away from the stop light but ran fine once going.I pulled it in the garage to replace the distributor cap and rotor. I pulled the distributor cap off and had problems getting the rotor off. I actually had to break the plastic rotor with a screwdriver and small hammer (I know it was dumb) and then pry/wiggle the metal ring off the shaft. I put the new rotor and distributor cap on. The car would not start.

Without a jumper in the 2-P Service Check Connector, the CEL comes on and goes off after 2 seconds. The Main Relay “clicks” when CEL light goes out. Fuel pump runs. All fuses check out. The “K-Test” showed 4.96 V between the MAP Sensor connector’s reference wire and ground. CEL stays on when 2-P Service Check Connector is jumpered. No spark when no. 1 spark plug removed and grounded with engine cranking. Car will not start when blue wire going to the Ignition Control Module (igniter) is disconnected. All ICM tests are normal. Coil tests are normal.

Does the Crank Angle Sensor ever go bad?

I feel I should replace the distributor housing (because of my stupidity) but wonder about the CEL staying on when 2-P Service Check Connector is jumpered (replace ECM).

Please give suggestions.

Because of the age of your Civic, I would replace the ICM and coil. If the problem persists, I would install and new genuine Honda distributor housing:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-4.html#post288473

I replaced the distributor housing today because after price of the ICM + coil cost nearly as much as the distributor housing and the housing comes with a new ICM, coil plus more. The car starts and runs better than before the trouble.

The car has 252,000 + miles. I am going to replace the timing belt again real soon. Should I replace the ECM? Is there anything else I should change, besides normal maintenance?

Technically speaking, the distributor housing does not include the cap, rotor, ICM, or coil. My new Honda distributor housing cost $114. You replaced the whole enchelada, which is the best thing to do, especially if it was made by Honda. Here's the preventive maintenance program I would follow on your car:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563.html#post219991

I would also change the PCV Vale and clean the hose:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-6.html#post819639