We have a leaking 2nd floor shower floor drain. It is directly located underneath a recessed light fixture right on the foot of our stairs leading to the second floor.

A plumber did the job about a year ago. The access is very tight (through the recessed lighting hole. He replaced the old plumber's putty on the top part of the drain.

I will need a very detailed step by step help to fix it myself. I may have to cut a hole to get better access so I need instructions to fix that as well if I have to do that. I also will need somebody to tell me what tools to use.

Photos attached. Please help. Last question is do I need to do this again a year from now?

Thanks,
Ronnie

Hmmm... tough one. Wondering if you can get your hand up inside hole and actually touch that nut? If you can... reach up and try to loosen... will be hard... but if you can loosen that nut ( a basin wrench may help you... it is on extension handle... find at local home supply store.. or larger one may be found at a plumbing supply store ) you will be able to drop nut and have a friend push up on the drain while you go upstairs to clean putty away from under shower drain.

Then when clean, just add a good, solid bead of clear silicone and re-tighten nut with washers on bottom. That should do it... for years/decades to come if you tighten well enough AND the washers underneath are still in good shape.

Let me know your thoughts! Contact anytime.. I post most nights.

Hey Surfer, it sounds like you saw the first plumber get into that hole with his hand. Maybe your hands are just a bit larger, got any ladies that can help you? Ever seen an adjustable slip nut wrench, buy or borrow one and give it a try. Find Wrenches and other Plumbing Tools at Aubuchon Hardware (http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52-301-wrenches.aspx)

Hmmm...tough one. Wondering if you can get your hand up inside hole and actually touch that nut? If you can...reach up and try to loosen...will be hard...but if you can loosen that nut ( a basin wrench may help you...it is on extension handle...find at local home supply store..or larger one may be found at a plumbing supply store ) you will be able to drop nut and have a friend push up on the drain while you go upstairs to clean putty away from under shower drain.

Then when clean, just add a good, solid bead of clear silicone and re-tighten nut with washers on bottom. That should do it...for years/decades to come if you tighten well enough AND the washers underneath are still in good shape.

Let me know your thoughts!! Contact anytime..I post most nights.
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Thank you. I can touch it but the plumber used a wrench to tighten it. I will try and look for the wrench that you recommended and I will let you know how I did.

OK... also look for the wrench ballengerb1 recommended... think this will work even better. Good luck!

Hey Surfer, it sounds like you saw the first plumber get into that hole with his hand. maybe your hands are just a bit larger, got any ladies that can help you? Ever seen an adjustable slip nut wrench, buy or borrow one and give it a try. Find Wrenches and other Plumbing Tools at Aubuchon Hardware (http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52-301-wrenches.aspx)
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Thanks.! Which wrench do you think will work well the basin wrench or the slip nut wrench? I could reach it. I need the right tool and direction.

Not a bad idea to have both... just in case... but the slip nut wrench will be a better overall fit to the nut. But if you find you cannot set wrench correctly or that you cannot get enough leverage... then a basin wrench may be just the trick... can always purchase both and return unused one ;)

Last question is do I need to do this again a year from now?
Damm good question! If the shower base gives a bit when you step into it the answer is, "most likely yes". Let me explain. The shower base should have been bedded on installation. If not it will flex a bit when a person steps on it. On time this will rupture the drain seal and cause a leak. You may bed a shower base by puddling cement or mortar under the base to prop it up. Wood can also be built up under the base to give it support. Bottom line. If your shower floor still gives after you replace the drain seal then look to do the same thing farther on down the line. Good luck, Tom

I think the basin wrench may be too small to get a bite on the nut. Every handyman should have one available so give it a try but the slip nut wrench will definitely fit that nut. Tom's made a good point about the flwing of the floor. There are several ways to shore up a floor and expanding spray foam insulation is NOT one of them so avooid going down that road. I use modified thinset because when redoing a bath I have the thinset for the ceramic floors and wall tiles.

:p
Damm good question! If the shower base gives a bit when you step into it the answer is, "most likely yes". Let me explain. The shower base should have been bedded on installation. If not it will flex a bit when a person steps on it. On time this will rupture the drain seal and cause a leak. You may bed a shower base by puddling cement or mortar under the base to prop it up. Wood can also be built up under the base to give it support. Bottom line. If your shower floor still gives after you replace the drain seal then look to do the same thing farther on down the line. Good luck, Tom

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I joined this forum thinking I could at least get some idea how to fix my problem but what I got is even better. All of you guys are awesome. Trying to help someone is just remarkable. I appreciate your help.

Your explanation on whether I will have to go through this again makes sense but not comforting. I don't know how I am going to do this myself. In my mind I will have to destroy the ceiling to be able to shore up the shower base. I am telling you now, the shower base feels like it gives a bit every time we shower.

My thought is have a carpenter install a permanent door big enough to get in and fix the drain every time it leaks but maybe even better is have him shore the shower base.

Is it easy to fix the sheet rock ceiling? I am getting tempted to cut my way in. I could take pictures as I go. Give me your expert advise as I go. It will not be this week definitely. I am sure you guys are not working this weekend either because of the Superbowl. You don't want to miss the commercials.
:o

I will try and fix it not this weekend but probably next weekend. I appreciate all your help. I need to decide on whether to hire help or do it myself.

Good luck and please let us know what you decide. Tom

Surfer, I would not think you have to tear up the ceiling to shore up the shower. The shower sits on top of the floor borads about 10" above the ceiling. You need to get between the shower and the floor boards. You can your hand up to that spot and pack in some plaster or modified thinset. I think aermanent inspection door would look pretty funky and my wife would have me nailed to the wall.

Hey, if all else fails do not forget you can open that ceiling up a bit to make things easier... you said you would need help on that, too... so here I would cut out a 15" x 15" square hole about three inches away from the canister light hole (so do not have to patch into the light hole).. why so big? 1) To be able to work with the tools, 2) to strengthen under the base of the shower floor via thinset mortar or similar.

Even better, if you have a stud finder then try to locate strapping (runs perpendicular to joists) and cut along these if you can... less work to patch later. To cut out sheetrock use a drywall saw inbetween strapping and a utility knife over the strapping... obviously you need to be careful of any wires that may have been run in cieling). Then pull down sheetrock and save.

After you Kick *SS and finish replacing drain or just resealing the drain with new putty or what I recommend... silicone.. then you want to shore up the base of the unit. Can use modified thinset mortar (Ballenger says works great.. makes sense.. I use structolite gypsum... but is hard to find. You can purchase this modified thinset premixed in a tub at home supply store) up between the floor of shower and the floor under the shower base. You want to really push this in between layers... MESSY (protect floor) and try to distribute in and under as far as you can). That should help to strengthen base a little anyway... can't hurt.

Then screw the sheetrock back into strapping (or cut some pieces and span the cuts and screw into the wood pieces). Then tape the cuts and 1st coat patch the ceiling... 2nd coat... maybe 3rd quick coat with texture to match ceiling pattern.. then sand, touch up... paint, finish!

Hey, just wanted to finish on initial post. Good luck!

Glad we could help Surfer... good for you!! And thank you for coming back in to let us know how you did... we love to see you guys finish the job!