Hi,

I'm roughing in my basement. I have a lavatory on the other side of the wall from a washing machine. Can I plumb the lavatory into the stack? Of the washing machine (the pipe the washing machine discharges to)?

Thanks.

Are you asking if you can drain the lavatory in the washers vent stack or the washer stand pipe?

Oops, I mean into the standpipe.. .

Hi,

Here's a drawing of my basement. I have nine fixtures to rough in (10 if you count the floor drain in the laundry room. The purple line headed off the edge will go to an ejector pump in a window well. I started laying it out but don't think it is too efficient. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

If I could get the program you used to draw this I could draw it out how I would do it I just can't explain it in words you know I would have to show oyu on pic while I explain in words

I don't know much about this, but from the old drain systems that I have worked on, I have noticed that anytime there is a 90 degree turn (or right angle) that seems to be the place that gets clogged. Is it possible to have more of a " Y " at the intersections by connecting all three intersections at a point between lav 2 and lav 3? If you tie the two lavs together along with the floor drain at that point, it would give only one location that you might have to access at some point in the future if some object were to get caught in there. If you have a capped access or clean out of some kind to the drain at that point, it would be a lot easier to snake out any of the three lines leading to the main drain. Just a thought, and I'm curious to hear what others think.

Hi,

Here's a drawing of my basement. I have nine fixtures to rough in (10 if you count the floor drain in the laundry room. The purple line headed off the edge will go to an ejector pump in a window well. I started laying it out but don't think it is too efficient. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
This would lay out much better if you ran a straight line under the wall that runs North and South in the picture and then branch off with combos under their respective walls to pick up the bath with Lav 1, BT_1 and WC_1 in it and the laundry room.

Thank you. Does this make a little more sense? My fixture unit count is around 18 or 19 and I think I can do a 3" main building drain unless the code makes me go 4".. .

That's pretty much how I would lay it all out -- A 3" drain should be more than sufficient for this portion of the plumbing, if Lav_1 is in a vanity, you should come up there with a 3" Clean Out Tee for a line clean out and then bush down the top of the C/O Tee to pick up the lav drain.

Also, if the line you are pumping this to has another water closet connected to it, then the line should be 4".

On your BT-2 how will you have access to the fixture to the back? I like the rest... Be sure to have cleanout runs in each circuit as it's cheaper NOW than later! Hope it helps...

The second pic is how I would run it just be sure to have vents right especially after the toilet

Thank you for all the help. I've attached the latest drawing. Desgrunner got me--I had one tub blocked by another, so I switched BT-1 and WC_1 around.. .

I also hatched the north wall and two other walls that are load-bearing concrete walls, so I can't do much with them, or at least I don't want to try to stick any plumbing in them.

How far below finish floor should I stay with my 3" main line (what I'm calling the "building drain"?

All this stuff is going to run to an ejector pump in a 30-gallon basin that I'm going to stick in a window well.

LAV_1 is in a vanity so I could hide a cleanout in there.. .

Any other comments would be appreciated.

Hi I asked another question about roughing in a basement last night and its gone! Did I make someone mad or do something wrong? It was there last night, I checked after I posted it.

I noticed another post I was replying to disappeared as well. Have no idea why.

It's still there on the first page. Hey! Even if ypu pissed someone off I wouldn't allow your thread to be deleated. Did you see your answers" No? Then I'll bump it back up to the top. Regards, Tom

Bump!

Tom, I put another question on though, with a new drawing. That's the one I can't find anywhere.. .

I noticed another post I was replying to disappeared as well. Have no idea why.
I just went through all of your posts and none of them corcerned plumbing. What post was it that was deleted? Tom

Tom, I put another question on though, with a new drawing. That's the one I can't find anywhere. . .
Then it didn't upload. Try again. Regards, Tom

Thank you for all the help. Here's my latest drawing. I switched around WC_1 and BT_1 so that BT_1 wasnt' boxing in BT_2 (thank you desgrunner).

How far below finish floor should I stay with my building drain (the 3" main drain)?

THis is all going to an ejector pump in a 30 gallon plastic basin in a window well.

Any comments would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Thank you for all the help. Here's my latest drawing. I switched around WC_1 and BT_1 so that BT_1 wasnt' boxing in BT_2 (thank you desgrunner).

Personally, I didn't see much wrong with how you had the tubs situated before.

I'm not altogether clear about desgrunner's concerns about access to the back of BT_2. Access is always nice, but it certainly isn't required -- And if you use solvent welded Sch 40 waste and overflows like a Geberit or a Tap-Toe, then you need not worry about concealing Slip-Joint connections.


How far below finish floor should I stay with my building drain (the 3" main drain)?

That depends on the depth needed for your furthest away trap -- 18" below grade would be optimum, but it could probably be much less, depending on how long the run is.


THis is all going to an ejector pump in a 30 gallon plastic basin in a window well.

If the bottom of the window well is higher than the basement floor, which most are, you're going to have to bury that ejector basin mighty deep.

Is locating the ejector basin in the laundry room an option?

And don't forget -- The ejector basin needs it's own vent run all the way up through the roof -- No tying into existing vents if you want this set-up to function properly.

That depends on the depth needed for your furthest away trap -- 18" below grade would be optimum, but it could probably be much less, depending on how long the run is.

Coming from the ejector pump at 1/4" per foot I end up about 11 inches below finish floor between BT_2 and WC_1 (at the far north). Is that pushing my luck to far?


If the bottom of the window well is higher than the basement floor, which most are, you're going to have to bury that ejector basin mighty deep.

I acutally dug that window well quite deep--the bottom of it is about four feet below finish grade.

Thanks!

Coming from the ejector pump at 1/4" per foot I end up about 11 inches below finish floor between BT_2 and WC_1 (at the far north). Is that pushing my luck to far?

If you're allowed to wet vent in your neck of the woods, then it'll probably be fine, but Tom, Doug or James will have to tell you if your fixture placement is doable.

We don't allow wet venting here on the Left Coast -- Each trapped fixture must have it's own vent, and if you're posting from anywhere on the Left Coast, then 11 inches isn't going to do it.

If you're allowed to wet vent in your neck of the woods, then it'll probably be fine, but Tom, Doug or James will have to tell you if your fixture placement is doable.

We don't allow wet venting here on the Left Coast -- Each trapped fixture must have it's own vent, and if you're posting from anywhere on the Left Coast, then 11 inches isn't going to do it.

Can you help me understand that? I think I understand the concept of wet venting (drain line of fixture A is vent line for fixture B, right?) but I can't figure out how if I am able to wet vent then I'll have more room to play with on my main drain.

Thanks!

from the looks of the "basment rough in part 3 " ( I hope you can tell which one I'm looking at its where you fliped the tub and toilet) catch wc 1 that is the start of the whole thing get it in the wall then lay you a 3x 1/12 on its back run it up as a vent... next catch bt2 with a 3x2 wye you might have to make it into a combo then catch wc2 on a 3" combo or wye ..... noiw on the line that has lav 1 run it in 3inch wye of and catch bt1 and then have a 3x2 catch the wash machine and vent this line using a 2x 1/1/2 x 2 tee as you catch the drain and come up in the wall be sure to use a 2" p-trap onn this not 1 1/2 run 1 1/2 vent up then catch lav1 on a 2inch line in the slab you will run that line into the back of the 3x2 wye that sereved the W/M using a 3x2 bushing... anyway run 2" up in the wall catch sink on a 2x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 tee run 1 1/2 vent up and tie the w/m and lav1 vent to gether in a circut vent this way you are now "well vented"
going on tie lav 1 and lav 2 together useing a 2x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2x 1 1/2 cross run 1 1/2 vent up posibily tie that vent together to another one of your vents that you have already run uo to minimize your roof penitratetions. now as far as your floor drain you can ite it in together to the main line but you must get a specail floor drain with a tap in it to put a water line to it ( as of right now i have had a brain fart and cannot think oif its name the floor drain has a specail name )
or you can run the floor drain out seperate of everything else outside the house . or you can delete it altogether to make it easy.


cathc K/S on a 3x2 waye run 2" over into the slab turn up catch sink on a 2x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 san tee run 1 1/2 vent up possibily tie together to other vents you need to rough K/S
10" to the left or right of center of sink
then rundrain to pump
if I were you I would check local code to see if thy will let you run pex or soft copper in the slab if so this would be a good time to run your water while the ditch is open... that's all for now I guess hit me back on that

from the looks of the "basment rough in part 3 " ( i hope you can tell which one i'm looking at its where you fliped the tub and toilet)
Yep

catch wc 1 that is the start of the whole thing get it in the wall
OK

then lay you a 3x 1/12 on its back run it up as a vent
OK, does it matter if it is upstream or downstream of the WC_1?

next catch bt2 with a 3x2 wye you might have to make it into a combo
When you say combo you mean a wye 1/8 bend combo, right? So the fitting ends up doing a full 90?

then catch wc2 on a 3" combo or wye
OK

now on the line that has lav 1 run it in 3inch wye of and catch bt1 and then have a 3x2 catch the wash machine and vent this line using a 2x 1/1/2 x 2 tee as you catch the drain and come up in the wall be sure to use a 2" p-trap on this not 1 1/2 run 1 1/2 vent up then catch lav1 on a 2inch line in the slab you will run that line into the back of the 3x2 wye that served the W/M using a 3x2 bushing
OK, I think I got all that. I’m going to box out under my tubs before I pour the concrete floor, how big should I box out?

anyway run 2" up in the wall catch sink on a 2x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 tee run 1 1/2 vent up and tie the w/m and lav1 vent together in a circuit vent this way you are now "well vented"
OK, got that

going on tie lav 1 and lav 2 together useing a 2x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2x 1 1/2 cross run 1 1/2 vent up posibily tie that vent together to another one of your vents that you have already run up to minimize your roof penitratetions
You lost me there. I know I need to vent lavs 2 and 3, I was going to vent them both and tie together above the ceiling.. .

now as far as your floor drain you can ite it in together to the main line but you must get a special floor drain with a tap in it to put a water line to it
I was going to run the floor drain to the branch line that the kitchen sink is on—is that OK? Are you talking about one with a plug in it that you can pull to bypass the trap and clean out the line? I saw one like that.. .

catch K/S on a 3x2 wye run 2" over into the slab turn up catch sink on a 2x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 san tee run 1 1/2 vent up possibily tie together to other vents you need to rough K/S 10" to the left or right of center of sink
OK

if i were you i would check local code to see if thy will let you run pex or soft copper in the slab if so this would be a good time to run your water while the ditch is open
I was going to run pex through the ceiling (joists in the basement lid) then down through the walls rather than in the floor.. .

thats all for now i guess hit me back on that
Thank you!

question 1 : down stream of toilet 1 right after to reliveit because it is a mjor need to vent it first

question 2: yes combo is also known as a wye plus a 1/8 bend

question 3: we (plumbers) use showers boxes designed for this propose you can get them at your local plumbing supply they are made by oatey or you can frame out I would frame out 12 x12
question 4: you can vent and drain the 2 lavs spererate I guess the way I was going to do it would save time and materail by bringing the stack up in the middle...

you need a floor drain with a "trap primer" ( that's what it is called) no if's and's or but's if you want a floordrain tied into the sanitary drain... and you must runa water line to it... end of story... sorry not many options here I would get a plumber to hook that part up

hope this helps answer the few questions