I'm fairly handy but the whole gas/hot water thing intimidates me. I have a 10-12 year old Rheeem Ruud hotwater tank and my hot water be it hot - has horrible pressure from every faucet.

The plumber wants at least $100 dollars to come fix it and said they know exactly what it is - and made reference to some sort of nipple/spout being clogged or something.

I'm fairly handy when it comes to tools but its mostly with cars. Can anyone help me out? I can post a picture of my tank if that would help...

I'm fairly handy but the whole gas/hot water thing intimidates me. I have a 10-12 year old Rheeem Ruud hotwater tank and my hot water be it hot - has horrible pressure from every faucet.

The plumber wants at least $100 dollars to come fix it and said they know exactly what it is - and made reference to some sort of nipple/spout being clogged or something.

I'm fairly handy when it comes to tools but its mostly with cars. Can anyone help me out? I can post a picture of my tank if that would help....

We don't need a picture of your water heater but the location of the "clogged nipple/spout" would certainly be helpful. Any plumber that tells you that he knows "exactly where the clog is" without being there to check it out is just blowing smoke.
There are things that you can do to save that 100$,( and I'll bet that hundred bucks is just the start of the billing)

There's no doubt that you have mineral build up in your hot water system.
This is caused by minerals building up in a water heater that's not flushed on a regular basis.
First the heater must be flushed out. Let me show you how to flush your heater. Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) and some white grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). The whole thing shouldn't take more then a few minutes. Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. You might want to consider cleaning the screens on your areators if you have a high mineral buildup. If thev problem still persists after you have flushed, you will have to drain the heater, remove the boiler drain and go up in the bottom of the tank with a wood or plastic rod, (not metal) and try to break up the mineral and flush it out.
Next you will have to open up each faucet and clean out the crud from the hot water inlet ports on the cartridge. Then before you reassemble the faucet turn on the hot water supply to flush out the supply. If you get a strong stream then move on to the next one. This sounds like it could work itself into much more then a 100$ service call. I have gone on countless calls like yours and have yet to find a single "nipple/spout" to cure the problem. The minerals that get into a hot water system find their way into every faucet that makes a draw. It was only by going from faucet to faucet and flushing out the supplies that I was able to get the system back to normal. Good luck and keep me informed on what happens. Tom

I'll guess he's referring to the tube that's melted and is clogging the line.

He may very well be right.

But for a tank that old, and considering a new one is probably under $200, I'd consider replacing the tank: a very easy job for someone fairly handy.

Rick,
You're referring to the plastic"dip tube" that directs cold water to the bottom of the tank. WhileI have replaced dip tubes that have melted when soldering in at the installation I have never replaced one that melted due to the hot water it came in contact with. The water just isn't hot enough. But you did a great job of deducing what might have caused it. And Rick's correct. The average life of a water heater is about 8 years old. Perhaps it's time to replace. Regards, Tom

I see you were posting while I was typing. Your answer was awesome as usual. I would not have posted at all if I'd have seen your post.

My hot water is fine though, gets very hot and is delivered fairly quickly. On one of the regular sink taps the hot water pressure if it's the only one being run is adequate. The second another tap is turned on for hot water is the pressure is minimal.

Turning on the tap for the tub no matter what is low hot pressure. I think I can get a bit more use out of this tank if I can do a couple of things to it and if it's a reasonable cost. Can't really afford a new tank where its so close to Christmas - Santa has to start shopping soon :)

"On one of the regular sink taps the hot water pressure if its the only one being run is adequate. The second another tap is turned on for hot water is the pressure is minimal." This tells me that your problem is volume. How old's your house and what kind of pipes are in it. Copper? Plastic? Or galvanized?
My bet's on door number three. You either have undersized pipes in your house or your pipes have so much mineral deposit built up in them it's cutting down on the flow. Talk to me! Tom

House was built in 94 - everything is up to spec and most likely the pipes aren't too small.

The previous owners noticed a decrease in pressure over the last few years. If you use a hotwater tap for either one of the tubs the water is a small flow. Even if it's the only thing using the hot water.

Sinks, let me clarify, are adequate but nothing near the cold water side. I really think its something near or with the hotwater tank.

Remove hot water pipe tap in top of water heater. You will find your problem there.

HVAC might just have put his finger on the problem, (thanks and welcome HVAC) If the washer broke up and is blocking the seat of the cold water shut off that for sure would do it. Shut the water off at the house stop and open up the heater supply shut off. Check the seat for any crud or debris that may be blocking it. Good call HVAC! Tom

What's a step by step on what to do - very new to this.

So you're talking about the hot water exit that comes from the top of the boiler?

'whats a step by step on what to do?"
This is a step by step of what to do.
Shut the water off at the house stop and open up the heater supply shut off. Check the seat for any crud or debris that may be blocking it.
The heater supply shut off is the valve on the cold water line leading into your heater. After the water's shut off at the house ot meter shut off put a wrench on the bonnet, ( the large nut on the stem bel;ow the handle and turn it out counterclockwise. Once it's loose you can turn the stem and washer out counterclockwise. Now check to see if the washer's intact. Check the seat of thevalve for trash or crud and clean it out. Ifeverything looks clear reassemble everythingt and turn the water back on. Pressure better now? Regards, Tom

Here is the top of the tank - close the valve I have circled, then loosen the nut right below the valve, so I can then loosen the lower nut where the pipe enters the boiler? (I accidentally circled the hot water pipe exit - ignore that)

So then once that is disconnected I can see if a certain washer has broke and is blocking the passage?

http://members.shaw.ca/leobrowne/images/personal%20pics/P1050207.JPG

Different type shut off valve. I gave you directions for a more common type globe valve with a neoprene washer You have a lever type with a metal ball. Shut the water off at the house shut off outside where the water enters the house. Nowtake the lever off and unscrew the bonnet nit and pull the ball out. Check the openings for debris or trash. To check, have some one turn the water back on for a second while you hold a pail in front of the open valve to contain the splash. You should have a full.strong stream. If not the problem's upstream from the valve and you'll have to call in outside help. Good luck, Tom

Forgive my inexperience with this but, how would something in this apparatus cause low pressure on the hot water side? It's a different pipe - I would have though it was the hot water pipe exiting the boiler would have the clog...

Just wondering for my own understanding of it all :) many thanks for your help!

No poblem my friend,

"how would something in this apparatus cause low pressure on the hot water side? its a different pipe - I would have though it was the hot water pipe exiting the boiler would have the clog..."

Both the cold water supply and the hot water outlet pipes have a effect on pressure and volume in the hot water system. If the clog blocks the cold water inlet then that means no hot water coming out the outlet. If you do the job yourself you're going to have to start at the heaters cold water inlet and track the loss by the process of elimination. Go back and start with the first fixture nearest the heater that uses hot water. If you can cut the flow of hot water back by turning on another fixture then the problem's behind that fixture. If everything's normal continue on to the next closest fixture until you experience a loss. That's where you'll focus on why the loss. That's the way I would go about it. Good luck. Tom

I had company at the house the last couple of weekends and was unable to do this repair. I have another question - that valve mechanism appears to have been soldered onto the pipe - do I just break it off? Or apply heat with a blowtorch?

You don't take the valve off the pipe. The valve body stays intact. Shut the water off to the house and unscrew the nut that secures the handle. Nowb unscrew the nut under it and pull out the ball assembly. Check the seat and the inlet side for crud or a small pebble. Hold a pail up prevent splash and have someone turn on the water. There should be a strong stream coming out the open valve body. If not the problem's farther up stream of the valve. If there's a strong stream then the problem is upstream in the heater or out in the hot water main. Let me know what you find. Tom

Gotcha! K, I will try that this weekend! (got a washer to fix tonight!)

Different type shut off valve. I gave you directions for a more common type globe valve with a neoprene washer You have a lever type with a metal ball. Shut the water off at the house shut off outside where the water enters the house. Nowtake the lever off and unscrew the bonnet nit and pull the ball out. Check the openings for debris or trash. To check, have some one turn the water back on for a second while you hold a pail in front of the open valve to contain the splash. You should have a full.strong stream. If not the problem's upstream from the valve and you'll have to call in outside help. Good luck, Tom

NOw I'm confused. I took off the lever off after shutting off the outside source, put the lever in the closed position, took the lever off and there's just this stem sticking out where the lever goes... where do I go from here? "unscrew the bonnet nit" I have no idea what you're talking about there...

Here's a new pic so you can see what I'm doin:

Cmon speedball1 ! :)

I'm almost tempted to replace this whole apparatus

"I'm almost tempted to replace this whole apparatus"

I think that's a great idea. Ifyou can't open up the lever valve then replace using a regular shut off valve and 2 couplings. Good luck, Tom

I replaced it, the water coming in from the outside source was steady and full stream. Put a nice new valve and the water is still low pressure for hot :(

"the water coming in from the outside source was steady and full stream."

You've just narrowed it down to the outlet side of the heater. If I were there I would start to track the location of the pressure drop down by elimination.
Go to the first fixture the water heater services. Open the hot water. Full stream? Move to the next one in line and try again. Weak stream? Shut the water off and open up the faucet. Now turn the water back on and flush out the line. Full stream now? No? Then the trouble 's between the water heater and the first fixture. To fix this you must localize it. Good luck, Tom

I was bored the other day so I went through all the postings for this issue. It seems that a lot has been done without finding out the cause of the problem. Also, there may be others in the same boat. So... using my computer geek background (I am a business analyst) I put together the following:

Recommendations made so far:

1)Replace HWH as it is near it’s end of life, if not over.

a.Unable to replace at this time.
2)Flush HWH

a.Unsure if done or results if done.
3)Clean out each faucet after flushing tank and while flushing lines to faucet.

a.Unsure if done or results if done.
4)Replace Diptube as it may be either clogged or melted.

a.Unsure if done or results if done.

b.Also, diptube only melts while join is being soldered, not overtime as HWH is not hot enough to melt plastic.
5)Clean out inlets to HWH.

a.In process after discovering it was a ball valve and not globe valve.

Here are some things that could help in diagnosing the problem:

1)Is the CW supply pressure to the HWH the same as it is to a sink?
2)What is the size of the CW supply?

a.To the tub?

b.To a Sink:


i.How do they compare to the HW supply?
3)Is the pressure comparable between the inlet and outlet on the HWH?
4)Is there a change in pressure if the WC is flushed?
5)Are you on City or Well water?
6)Trace CW inlet.

a.What is the first thing to connect to the CW line?


i.If it is NOT the HWH:



1Check the pressure to the incoming side of the point of use (POU) against the outflow.



2Check the pressure to the incoming side of the first POU against the pressure incoming to the HW htr.


ii.If the first unit is the HWH.



1.What is the next unit after the HWH?



2.What is the pressure at that POU?



3.How does it compare to the incoming pressure at the HWH?
7)What is the inlet size to the HWH?

a.Does it reduce from the mainline?

b.Does it reduce after it goes to the HWH?
8)What is the outlet size from the HWH?

a.Is it the same as the incoming?

b.Does it reduce after going to the next POU?

Suggested course of action:
1)Flush HWH and replace the small hosebib with a full flow ball valve

a.If needed, knock loose any sediment using wooden/plastic stick that remains at the bottom of the HWH.
2)Flush out each lav after flushing out the HWH.

a.Remove aerator and turn on water supply to purge lines.

b.After lines are purged of air. Shut off each faucet in turn


i.Remove both H and C control cartridges and clean them
I

i.Turn on supply to the faucet to flush out the lines and then shut off supply.


iii.Replace cartridges


iv.Open supply line and flush lines again.


v.Clean and replace aerators

c.Go to next lav and repeat.
3)Did this resolve the pressure issue?
4)Using the supply diagram from tracing the water supply. (See # 6 in requested info section).

a.Check the pressure on the first POU.


i.How does it compare to the HWH outlet?

b.Check the pressure on the second POU.


i.How does it compare to the first POU?


ii.How does it compare to the HWH outlet?

c.Does opening the CW supply on the second POU impact the HW supply on the first POU?
5)Is there a change in the pressure on the cold side if more than one faucet in use?

a.If you are on well water, this could be a problem with the pump.

b.If city water, there may be a problem with their supply to your house.

Hopefully by now you will either find out where the source of the pressure drop is. And hopefully WHAT is causing it as well.

Herman my man! I like your style! You analyze, and so do we.
All we can do, setting here in front of a key board, while you're up to your hooters wading in a sewer back up is ask questions and rhen draw on our experience out in the field. You say, "Hopefully by now you will either find out where the source of the pressure drop is. And hopefully WHAT is causing it as well."
No Herman, that's not how it works. It works like this. "Hopefully, it will be you that will either find out where the source of the pressure drop is. And hopefully WHAT is causing it as well."
You're going to hafta track this down yourself and about the only way you're going to do it is by the process of elimination.
If you have good pressure coming out of the heater and you track the HW line down fixture by fixture then somewhere along the line you'reb going to run into a pressure drop. That's where you'll find the trouble. I can feel your frustration from here. You get all these suggestions from us
And none of them solves your problem. Frustrating to the max. But at one time every one of these suggestions solved a problem for someone else. That's why we use them. We hope that something that helped someone else with a problem similar to yours will solve yours. Most of the time we're flying blind. We depend on input from the asker to help solve the problem. A"bubble" here or a "gurgle" there is enough to point us in the right direction.
Problems like smells and vibrations that come and go are about the hardest to nail down. Followed closely by complaints such as yours that involves many fixtures that have to be eliminated. I've tried to explain why you have got so many suggestions. We can make suggestion and offer solutions but in the long run it's going to be you that locates the problem and repairs it.
Regards, Tom

Simple test.

Your water heater should have a drain valve on the bottom of it. Open the drain valve and see how much pressure it has. If you have full pressure then you are getting full pressure TO the hot water tank and the pressure drop is either as the water is leaving the hot water tank or farther down the hot water line. Watch out the water will be hot. Check to see if the water is full of sediment. Drain the water until it runs clean.

Well I hooked up a hose to the drain and its FULL speed when I open it up. The pressure caught me off guard and it kind of went everywhere haha

I bought another valve and I'm going to install it on the exit side for the hot on the tank. Once I cut the pipe, I have a hose to place over the end of the pipe which I will direct into a bucket. I'll then turn on the water and see what the pressure is like coming out of the tank on the hot side.

When I turned on the drain valve with the incoming water shut off, hardly any water came out - when I turned the water back on the water coming uot wasn't nearly as dirty as I would have expected.

I will agree that it would mostly be in the nipple that is most likely the outlet on the hot water heater. But honestly I know today you have good water, but if you are going to take that loose, the entire tank installation is easy, and I would put a new more energy efficient heater in. ( and wrap it also)

Fixing it now when you can plan it, is a lot better than the next holiday with familiy over and all of a sudden no hot water

Found the problem. The exit of the water heater was all but closed off from buildup. Shaved it away gradually and finally poked through. Ran tons of water through the water heater and into the drain.

Here goes nothing!

ARGH. I can't get the f'n drain valve to close!! It's a stupid plastic type design and no matter how much I try loosening and tightening it won't close all the way. I have a faint trickle coming out. So now I have a hose ran to the tub sink in that's next to the water heater thank god. ARGH, and here I was doing so good!!

ARGH. I can't get the f'n drain valve to close!!! Its a stupid plastic type design and no matter how much I try loosening and tightening it won't close all the way. I have a faint trickle coming out. So now I have a hose ran to the tub sink in thats next to the water heater thank god. ARGH, and here I was doing so good!!!

Hey! No biggie!
Turn the water off to the heater and open a hot water faucet to relieve pressure. You now have two options. You can shut off the power, leave the hot water faucet open and drain the tank. After the tank's drained you can replace the leaky boiler drain with a metal one--or-- you can shut the water off to the heater place a pan under the boiler drain and take the bonnet packing nut loose and unscrew the stem and washer. Pull it out a ways but be ready to return it. The water will gush out the opening flushing the crud caught in the seat out. Reassemble and see if it shuts off now. Good luck. Tom

Your dip tube could possibly be dissolved and all of your aerators on faucets are clogged. It could be that easy.

That is my guess jpaulda. I just went through the same thing he is going through now.
In this case, a little investment into a new HWH would be like a million bucks to him right now.
If the dip tube is partially gone or all gone the a 40 gallon tank is about as good as a 10 or 20 gallon tank.

Your dip tube could possibly be dissolved and all of your aerators on faucets are clogged. It could be that easy.

ejj88's correct when he states, "If the dip tube is partially gone or all gone the a 40 gallon tank is about as good as a 10 or 20 gallon tank."

When you're in the shower you will find the hot water running out quickly if the dip tube's disintegrated. But ejj88 fails to address plastic particles from the dip tube clogging up the intake ports of faucet cartridges as well as the aerators. If, after cleaning the aerator screens, you still have no pressure then the faucet will have to be opened up and cleaned anf flushed.
Regards, tom