TxGreaseMonkey
Oct 20, 2007, 07:41 AM
How-to Change the Alternator on a 1996 thru 2001 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable, with 3.0L Duratec Engine
1. Disconnect negative battery cable (8 mm).
2. Remove serpentine belt.
3. Remove both top alternator mounting bolts (18 mm). On the rear stud, first remove the power steering bracket nut (13 mm).
4. Raise car, place jack stands under rocker panels, and remove right-front wheel.
5. Trick #1: Remove right-front plastic fender liners.
6. Remove alternator splash shield (two 5.5 mm screws).
7. Unfasten outer tie-rod end from steering knuckle (18 mm). Use a bungee cord to lift the outer tie-rod end out of the way.
8. Remove brake line bracket from fender (10 mm).
9. Unfasten sway bar end link from strut (18 mm). Use an 8 mm 1/4-inch drive socket to keep the stud from rotating.
10. Trick #2: Remove air dam for access to front subframe bolt. Place jack under subframe and remove rear subframe bolt (18 mm). Replace bolt and screw it in three turns. Do the same to the front subframe bolt (18 mm).
11. Lower subframe as far as the bolts will allow the engine to drop. Park the jack under the subframe, to take the load slightly off the subframe bolts.
12. Remove lower alternator bolt (13 mm).
13. Trick #3: Remove top cowling, as if you were going to replace the cabin filter. Then, remove the three 5.5 mm (7/32 inch) screws securing the lower cowling and lift it out. This will improve access and allow you to position the alternator, in order to remove the connectors.
14. Remove mega fuse (positive battery) wire connector from alternator (10 mm) terminal, clean connection with abrasive cloth (or steel wool), and apply dielectric grease.
15. Remove plug from alternator (voltage regulator). Use two long screwdrivers, going in from the top. One to slightly pry open the clasp, the other to pry the connector off.
16. Remove alternator.
17. Install new alternator, tightening mounting bolts 15 to 22 lb.-ft. and button things up. Apply dielectric grease to the new voltage regulator's terminals. Raise subframe with jack, then tighten both bolts 66 lb.-ft.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable (8 mm).
2. Remove serpentine belt.
3. Remove both top alternator mounting bolts (18 mm). On the rear stud, first remove the power steering bracket nut (13 mm).
4. Raise car, place jack stands under rocker panels, and remove right-front wheel.
5. Trick #1: Remove right-front plastic fender liners.
6. Remove alternator splash shield (two 5.5 mm screws).
7. Unfasten outer tie-rod end from steering knuckle (18 mm). Use a bungee cord to lift the outer tie-rod end out of the way.
8. Remove brake line bracket from fender (10 mm).
9. Unfasten sway bar end link from strut (18 mm). Use an 8 mm 1/4-inch drive socket to keep the stud from rotating.
10. Trick #2: Remove air dam for access to front subframe bolt. Place jack under subframe and remove rear subframe bolt (18 mm). Replace bolt and screw it in three turns. Do the same to the front subframe bolt (18 mm).
11. Lower subframe as far as the bolts will allow the engine to drop. Park the jack under the subframe, to take the load slightly off the subframe bolts.
12. Remove lower alternator bolt (13 mm).
13. Trick #3: Remove top cowling, as if you were going to replace the cabin filter. Then, remove the three 5.5 mm (7/32 inch) screws securing the lower cowling and lift it out. This will improve access and allow you to position the alternator, in order to remove the connectors.
14. Remove mega fuse (positive battery) wire connector from alternator (10 mm) terminal, clean connection with abrasive cloth (or steel wool), and apply dielectric grease.
15. Remove plug from alternator (voltage regulator). Use two long screwdrivers, going in from the top. One to slightly pry open the clasp, the other to pry the connector off.
16. Remove alternator.
17. Install new alternator, tightening mounting bolts 15 to 22 lb.-ft. and button things up. Apply dielectric grease to the new voltage regulator's terminals. Raise subframe with jack, then tighten both bolts 66 lb.-ft.