Hello again everyone..


I am planning on adding a basement apartment, which will of course need a bathroom and a small kitchenette. The house was built in 1969 and I intend to cut the concrete floor to install the necessary plumbing.

Still in the planning stages, I'm trying to figure out exactly which sewage ejection setup I'll want to use. I want to come up with my ideal plan, and be able to advocate intelligently to the inspector if there's an issue.

I like the idea, looks and functionality of the Sani-Grind system:
Sanigrind macerating (grinder) pump for standard bottom outlet toilet (http://www.saniflo.com/products/sanigrind.asp)

-- 3/4" discharge line, means less waste "on top of" the check valve in the discharge pipe
-- self-contained unit, i would set it into a dry-well/sump below floor level to receive the 4" pipe
-- requires no extra dedicated vent (venting diagram shows only normal vent)
-- draws 8.6amps, no mention of need for dedicated circuit (would code require anyway? IPC.. )
-- The website implies that it switches on or off based on pressure ("comprised of a pressure chamber, which starts and stops the unit") rather than float switches. Is that good/better?
-- If I use this, is there a problem with combining all the waste lines into the single 4" line before the unit? The unit has separate openings for smaller 1.5" drains. I would prefer to use 2" for the non-toilet fixtures.




On the other hand, there is the traditional pump-in-a-bucket setup, which will certainly be cheaper, at least in it's more basic form. Questions related to that are:

-- Should i be considering a dual-pump setup? If so, one as pure backup or should they alternate?
-- Are dedicated circuit(s) required?
-- Are any particular type of float switches better? I have heard that swing-type can get caught on stuff, but sliding-post styles can get fouled by "stuff" in the bucket
-- Can all the lines be combined before emptying into sump bucket? I assume so.. would it be optimal to use 6" line, to also provide a bit more volume in the system?
-- I know that a dedicated vent is required for the sump system. Can the rest of the fixture group wet-vent (within code) to the sump, and then out via the dedicated vent?


For reference, here's some dual-pump setups, with nice pump controllers and alarms:
duplex sewage systems from FAMOUS PLUMBING SUPPLY (http://www.plumbingsupply.com/doublesewagesystems.html)

A single pump with a simple float switch is a lot cheaper.
Sewage packages - installation instructions - Zoeller Powerflush toilet systems Quick Johns from famous Plumbing Supply (http://www.plumbingsupply.com/sewage1.html)
(though to me, trouble-free is worth more than a bit of money up front)

Another, from Little Giant:
Pit Plus pre-assembled sewage packages from FAMOUS PLUMBING SUPPLY (http://www.plumbingsupply.com/sewage_basin_assemblies.html)

These are huuuge:
Duplex (dual pumps) grinder sewage packages from FAMOUS PLUMBING SUPPLY (http://www.plumbingsupply.com/duplexgrinderpackages.html)

I've read good things about the Grundfos pumps.. maybe I should just buy the components instead of a kit?
Grundfos Sewage Pumps - FAMOUS PLUMBING SUPPLY (http://www.plumbingsupply.com/grundsewage.html)

Bump

No one has an opinion on sewage ejectors?

I've never lived or worked with one, so I'm starting from scratch here...


Thanks!

Bump again? SOMEONE must have worked with sewage ejectors before...

bump again? SOMEONE must have worked with sewage ejectors before...
The reason I haven't jumped in is that we don't have any basements in my area. I bumped it up in hopes that one of the other experts would pick up on it. But since they didn't let me give it a shot.

Should I be considering a dual-pump setup? If so, one as pure backup or should they alternate?
A back up pump is necessary in a basement apartment where the ejection system is the only drainage that there is. This is insurance that if one pump fails the other will take over. Alternating them is a option that you must decide on.

Are dedicated circuit(s) required? I'm no electrician but it would seem that any feed that could bring it in contact with water should be dedicated.

Are any particular type of float switches better? I have heard that swing-type can get caught on stuff, but sliding-post styles can get fouled by "stuff" in the bucket The only experience I have is with the float ball and swing type in sump pits.

Can all the lines be combined before emptying into sump bucket? I assume so.. would it be optimal to use 6" line, to also provide a bit more volume in the system? I can see no advantage in a 6 inch line over a 4 inch one. If you don't wish to use the 2" inputs, if provided, you may cap them off and tie into the 4" main to the ejector pit.

I know that a dedicated vent is required for the sump system. Can the rest of the fixture group wet-vent (within code) to the sump, and then out via the dedicated vent? If I understand the question correctly7 You're casking if you may connect the fixture vent back to the pit and use the pits vent to vent the entire group.
The answer to that is a resoumding NO! Dedicated means just that. A dedicated vent for the pit and a fixture vent that you may run out the roof or revent back into a dry vent. There is a reason for this. The reason being that while the house/fixture vent draws air into the drainage system to relieve the suction caused by draining liquid the pit vent both draws and expels air depending on rather the discharge is entering the pippt or leaving it. If the pip vent were connected to the house system you would be pressurizing a system designed for vacume. It could be possible the pressure could force sewer gas back through a trap with a low trap seal. This is why a dedicated pit vent and the house venting system must be kept separate.
As for recommending a certain unit you know best what your requirements will be and how much use the unit will get. Any other experts want to jump in? Tom

For the Bathroom, (As for I am in the same situation) I would go with the Zoeller "Qwik Jon" or the Power/Up flush system (they are both the same) the "Qwik Jon" is from Lowe's and the Powerflush is from Home Depot... anyways, its where the toilet of any brand sits on top of the system and flush's into it (also a sink, tub/shower) can also drain into the system. This ejector also uses a standard 115 voltage (3 prong neoprene wire) to operate (like all systems).

**IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE PICTURES, PLEASE EMAIL ME @ [email protected]
One of my neighbors just installed the above-ground system that I just described...
They had framed around the toilet w/ tile and you have to step up... I think it looks
Nicer to how you have to step up to the toilet... I would think the room would look to
Big w/ out the toilet being elevated