Hello! My dryer is playing tricks with me. My dryer has heat one day and no heat the next. Sometimes when I use the dryer I stick around just to make sure there is HEAT, only to return 10 minutes later to a cold dryer. It also sometimes make a loud sound.

You didn't state if electric or gas. On electric check all eletrical connections, especially the ones on the element. On gas is the burner shutting down?

I Believe it is a Gas dryer. In the BACK it has a POWER CORD, A VENT type of tubing "flexible", and somewhat iron hosing with a valve.

Here is the model: Whirlpool LGR7648KT1

... Like I said before it is on and off heat. TY

Remove vent hose from back of dryer and do a load. Does it now dry properly? If it does the vent or vent hose is clogged. Check the hose all the way out to where it exits house for blockage. If it is clogged it is going off on limit thermostat and opening it causing no heat. Then when it cools down the stat will close and work again till it opens up again.

Hello! My dryer is playing tricks with me. My dryer has heat one day and no heat the next. Sometimes when I use the dryer I stick around just to make sure there is HEAT, only to return 10 minutes later to a cold dryer. It also sometimes make a loud sound.
TY esquire1 I will try that when I get home. Earlier before I got your response, I called home and asked my sister to run the dryer for about 20 minutes with nothing in it... just to see if the heat stays on... and it did for that time. I then asked her to put some clothes that needed to be dried in the dryer and run it she said after about 5-10 minutes there was no heat.

When I get home tomorrow I will try what you said.

I would like some other info. If there is a panel at the bottom of the dryer, remove it.

Start dryer
1) How long you see a glow
2) Burner then starts
3) How long before burner turns off
4) Are there restart attempts?

5) Aprox age of dryer?

I'm suspecting lint around the thermal cut out sensor.

OK! I took off the VENT hose behind the DRYER and RAN it to the garage. I then tried to dry a load, but then again the heat shut off at about 10 miniutes. I then took off the Thermal FUSE and ran the dryer without it and I got no heat at all. I then put back the Thermal Fuse "not a new one", and it ran with heat for about 10 minutes again. I took of the bottom panel and I saw the GLOW of the burner... it lased for about 10 minutes. Is there something that is keeping the dryer from getting gas to the burner? I checked the THERMAL FUSE with a multimeter and read out OK.

What should the readings be when checking the gas valve coils, with ohmeter?

While the flame is on is it orangry colored instead of blue? Check your high thermostat. Also have you check inside the unit at vent openings for lint? Also check the linits for lint on them. Sure sounds like since when unit reaches a certain temp it is sutting down which could be a thermostat or lint build up and overheating

While the flame is on is it orangry colored instead of blue? Check your high thermostat. Also have you check inside the unit at vent openings for lint? Also check the linits for lint on them. Sure sounds like since when unit reaches a certian temp it is sutting down which could be a thermostat or lint build up and overheating

It started ORANGY and then when the gas hits it turned BLUE.
?
Which one is the HIGH thermostat? It shows 2 in the parts manual:

PART# 3387134 Thermostat, Internal−Bias
PART# 3403140 Thermostat, 205 F (96 C)

---When I took off the Thermostat, I shook it and it made a sound like their was a ball/rock inside, is that normal?

The one rated 205F. I've never shook them but I never heard a rattle in them. Does it have continuity with it disconnected from the wires?

Two sites for diagrams of parts and location. Appliance Parts from RepairClinic.com - HomePage (http://www.repairclinic.com) and ApplianceJunk.com - Appliance Repair Forums - How to Videos (http://www.appliancejunk.com)

Two sites for diagrams of parts and location. Appliance Parts from RepairClinic.com - HomePage (http://www.repairclinic.com) and ApplianceJunk.com - Appliance Repair Forums - How to Videos (http://www.appliancejunk.com)



... WILL check the links. TY for all your help... Will reply soon.

There is probably a capilary tube that is the t-stat for the burner. It likely snakes around somewhere. Lint that's somehow gets around the filter will find it's way to this sensor. This makes the dryer think that it's too hot and it shuts off. 1st guess.

There is a blower that exhausts the hot air. That belt can slip. 2nd guess.

The blower could have too much friction. 3rd guess.

The gismo that diverts some of the main burner flame so that the pilot valve stays open.
4th guess.

I've seen them all. I've kept a dryer manufactured in 1968 operating to this day. That's like 39 years.

WHY WON'T ANYBODY ESTIMATE THE AGE OF THE DRYER?

Part#3403140 thermostat is your hi limit. The bias thermostat is just like a regular thermostat except it is located inside a bias heater.When the heater is energized it generates a little amount of heat which causes the operating thrmostat to open sooner keeping the dryer drum cooler inside therefore a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act both as a hi temp and lo temp thermostat.

Okay I checked out all of these parts out and they checked out fine:

PART#

3403140 Thermostat, 205 F (96 C)
3392519 Thermal fuse
3387134 Thermostat, Internal−Bias
338906 Sensor, Radiant
280010 Kit, Thermal Cut−Off


A SEARS parts store manager said that it may be the GAS COIL in the DRYER, WHERE is that? Or if anybody else have another suggestion?

Thank you