I have just read the information on this great site because I have the same thing happening to my dryer now. I think I have tested the correct part and it still comes up with "0" for the test reading. Is there another step after this... HHHEEEELLLPPPPP:confused:

Only other way to test is to jumper around them. If works after jumpering you know which one to replace. The thermal limits are not very expensive so you might want to replace all while your in there.

To jumper around them, just tape the connectors together right?

That will work. Disconnect the power first. Be safe

The light inside of the drum does not turn on, is that normal in this situation? I have found a 4 connetor type device is this a thermal limiter as well?

If you have the power connected and no light in dryer in could mean the door switch is bad. I do believe the 4 connect could be a limit switch. Look on the wiring diagram on unit panel. The limit switches will be on the housing of the housing of the heateing coil. Also test the Thermal fuse on the exhaust housing. Since you have a meter, check all for continuity. This is not a difficult repair, just a few minutes of testing. Post back with results

Just to make sure I understand... the 4 prong device is a limit switch that is located on the motor housing on the below the dryer down on the heater coil housing, I followed the wires to the front removed the front cover. I tested left to right and reading was "0". I then tested top to bottom and the reading a little over 50 V.mA or between 20 and 10 ohms. I then checked the door switch, the door switch has 3 wires one cover wire, one blue wire and one gray wire. From Blue wire to Gray wire with door closed I have a reading of "0" with door open I get no reading at all. The cover wire I have checked both cover to blue and cover to gray with door open and closed and did not get any type of movement. I have tried to do the jumper as well but still no lights or movement. I have checked the breaker it is good, the outlet is good also, I do have power coming in to the dryer, and through the mounting bracket on all 3 legs. What else should I check? You must do this for a living.. its like you are looking at the dryer.

LT

Your doing great. Do you have a thermal fuse on the vent housing? Not all units have these but many do. If so, check it for cont or jumper it out

Is this behind the lint screen? How do I take it off? It seems to be "glued" on.

No It will be on the back side on unit on the metal housing that at the bottom is where the flex vent attaches

Just to stay on track here, the dryer runs but not drys right?

The dryer will not run. I have just checked the on/off switch to see if it works. I attatched the probes put it in the start position and the meter read "0", I released the switch, it returned to not reading. The dryer will not run at this point with no lights inside.

Is the thermal fuse a small black 2 prong device?

Did you find a thermal fuse on the back of the vent housing. It cannot be too hard to get this up and going. Look closely for and other fuses. Look at the wiring diagram (if there) closely for any other fuses that may be there. We'll get it going.

What is the model #? I'll see if I can find a diagram to look at myself to see where yuu are losing power.

GLER642AS3 is the model #.

Let's go back a step or 2. You have power at the terminal block. Get a short wire to use a jumper if you do not have a alligator clip. Use this carefully as we are working with live voltage. Jumper the door switch. One end will have 1 terminal and the other will have 2 One to power unit &1 for lite. Put 1 jumper on singel and other on 1 of 2 and then 2 of to the settings on the top panel will have to be in run position and someone will have to push the start button. What happens then. Next move to the start button and jumper it The door will have to be closed jumper it and psh button. What happens now? Now jumper the thermal fuse on vent housing (did you see if you hade one?) What happens now. Pardon my sp but trying to get you though a lot of test & not mush on typing an dtoo lazy for sp check. Post back

I don't have test wire at this time. I will need to go to Loews to see what I can find. The dryer still is not working but your help is great. Before I go to Loews just want to say THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I will be back in a little over an hour.

LT

Before I go, is the thermal fuse a small 2 prong device?

Yes that sounds like it. It is on the exhast housing on back of dryer. You can make a test wire. Just a scrap piece of wire and expose the ends by stripping the insulation off.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?image=1&part_id=2108182&pn_=134120900

This is a link to an image of the thermal limiter comparing what I see in the dryer and on line. I had a little something that came up and did not go to Lowe's. I will go to get a new limiter tomorrow. Looking at the picture are we thinking the same part?

LT

That's it. Take a wire off one end and check for continuity. Verify parts are bad before buying new. You can also take a jumper wire on it and start the unit. Make sure door is closed and timer is set to dry and push on button. It will only take 2 minutes to verify

Hello Doug,

Thanks for all the help. I called a electrician today and I had a failed breaker. It was replaced and things are back to normal... except for a mountain of laundry.:o Just want to check back in and say thanks and good luck until next time.

LT

My dryer's model # is GLEQ2152ES0... OK, When I turn the dryer on everything works but it don't get hot?? What's up with that. Had a friend come over to look at it. He checked everything he could think of. Can't find anything wrong?

My dryer comes on but don't get hot

Now he has it rigged so it heats up. But now it buzzes and turns off after about 8 to 10 munites because it is getting to hot! What part would I need to order? He seems to think it's a Humidity señor?