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    carpetman's Avatar
    carpetman Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #21

    Mar 12, 2008, 05:25 PM
    Model # is 58PAV090-14 Carrier Furnace 1999, by the way thanks for all your help.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #22

    Mar 12, 2008, 06:08 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by carpetman
    Model # is 58PAV090-14 Carrier Furnace 1999, by the way thanks for all your help.
    Here is a complete install manual with wiring diagrams and trouble shooting.
    This is all I have to offer as anything I know about your furnace is contained in the file below.

    It might take you sometime to figure it out but if you have the time it can be a learning experience for you.

    All answers for your questions are contained below.


    http://www.alltemp-hvac.com/58pa-15si.pdf



    And here is a check list for you to work with. Good luck.



    11 NO PREVIOUS CODE - Stored status codes are erased when power (115V or 24V) to control is
    Interrupted or 48 hours after each fault is cleared.
    12 BLOWER ON AFTER POWER UP (115V or 24V) - Blower runs for 90 seconds, if unit
    Is powered up during a call for heat (R-W closed).
    13 LIMIT OR FLAME ROLL-OUT SWITCH LOCKOUT - Auto reset after three hours. For flame
    Roll-out switch or fuse link, refer to #33.
    14 IGNITION LOCKOUT - Control will auto-reset after three hours. Refer to #34.
    21 GAS HEATING LOCKOUT - Control will NOT auto reset.
    Check for: - Stuck gas valve relay on control or miswire to gas valve circuit.
    22 ABNORMAL FLAME-PROVING SIGNAL - Flame is proved while gas valve is
    De-energized. Inducer will run until fault is cleared. Check for:
    - Stuck-open gas valve or leaky gas valve.
    23 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT OPEN Check for:
    - Obstructed pressure tubing. - Defective pressure switch (stuck closed).
    24 SECONDARY VOLTAGE FUSE IS OPEN
    Check for: - Short circuit in secondary voltage (24V) wiring.
    31 PRESSURE, DRAFT SAFEGUARD, OR AUXILIARY-LIMIT (when used) SWITCH DID
    NOT CLOSE OR REOPENED - If open longer than five minutes, inducer shuts off for
    15 minutes before retry. Check for:
    - Proper vent sizing and condensate pitch. - Inadequate Combustion air supply.
    - Vent restriction or high winds. - Low inducer voltage.
    - Defective inducer motor or start capacitor. - Disconnected or obstructed pressure tubing.
    - Defective pressure switch or connections. If it opens after trial for ignition period, blower will
    Come on for 90 second recycle delay.
    33 LIMIT OR FLAME ROLL-OUT SWITCH IS OPEN - If open longer than three minutes, code
    Changes to #13. Check for:
    - Defective blower motor or start capacitor. - Dirty filter or restricted duct system.
    - Loose blower wheel. - Defective switch or connections.
    - Inadequate Combustion air supply Flame Roll-out Switch or fuse link.
    - Open Flame Roll-out switch,or fuse link. Manual reset or replace.
    34 IGNITION PROVING FAILURE - Control will try three more times before a lockout #14
    Occurs. If flame signal lost after trial for ignition period, blower will come on for
    90 second recycle delay. Check for:
    - Oxide buildup on flame sensor (clean with fine sandpaper).
    - Proper flame sense microamps (.5 microamps D.C. minimum).
    - Gas valve turned off. - Manual shut-off valve. - Low inlet gas pressure.
    - Green wire MUST be connected to furnace sheet metal.
    - Inadequate flame carryover or rough ignition.
    COMPONENT TEST
    To initiate the component test sequence,shut OFF the room thermostat or disconnect the "R"
    Thermostat lead. Briefly short the TEST terminal to the ’C’ terminal. Status LED will flash code and
    Then turn on the inducer motor, hot surface igniter, blower motor-heat speed, and blower motor-cool
    carpetman's Avatar
    carpetman Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #23

    Mar 12, 2008, 06:24 PM
    Thanks.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #24

    Mar 12, 2008, 06:49 PM
    How do I test to see if a pressure switch is operating properly.


    Set your meter to volts AC, turn your furnace on so it is calling for heat. The draft inducer should start. There should be either two or three wires going into your pressure switch. Probe one lead of the pressure with one lead of your meter while touching the other lead of your meter to ground. Ground would be any bare metal part of your furnace. This must be bare metal. I always try to touch the other lead of my meter to the furnace's switch box. If you have a two wire pressure switch you should be getting 24 or more volts between both leads to ground. By this I mean if you touch one terminal of the pressure switch with one lead of your meter, and touch the other lead of your meter to a ground, bare metal part of your furnace, you should get 24 or more volts (24 to 28 volts). If you do not get 24 or more volts with the furnace running then you have a pressure switch problem. Your vent could be stopped up, The tube that runs from your pressure switch to the draft inducer could be plugged up or the draft inducer hole could be plugged up. On high efficiency condensing furnaces the water drain line could be stopped up, causing a water back up and blockage in the pressure switch tube. I usually take the drain hose loose from the condensing furnace and use a wet vacuum to open the drain back up. I hope this will help you in troubleshooting your gas furnace pressure switch.
    paolo7's Avatar
    paolo7 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #25

    Apr 22, 2010, 10:21 AM
    I got HVAC Honeywell Smart Valve and hot surface igniter and similar problem with furnace. Measured voltage coming to the igniter and it's 10V. Also measured the resistance of HSI which showed ~3 ohms. Any advises? Thanks

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