I just put a new head gasket on a 1995 Honda Civic with a B17b7 1.5L Non V Tech. I replaced the spark plugs, as well as the plug wires. I gapped the plugs to 1.1 mm like it said to do under the hood. My customer told me that the timing belt is brand new, and it looks brand new so I did not replace it. The water pump is new as well, so I left that alone as well. I did not touch the head other than to clean all the carbon off the valves. I cleaned the mating surfaces, on both the head, as well as the block. I made sure everything was clean and dry before I put the head down onto the block. Once I did, I followed the manuals directions, and tightened the bolts in two steps, and then proceeded to attach the intake and exhaust manifolds. Then I attached all the misc wires, fuel lines, and vacuum lines that I had pulled off. Once all this was done, I changed the oil and oil filter, and the antifreeze. I then put the timing belt on, and double checked everything was hooked up where it should be, and double checked nothing was left unattached. Since everything looked good, I went to start the car. Now it won't start. I tried jumping it with my 69 el Camino, but it still didn't help. I can't figure out why it is not starting.
I checked the compression before and after, and in number one it was 165/120, number 2 was 150/115, number 3 was 150/110 number four was 160/90. (The first number is the before, the second number is after. Before/After) The car was cold both times I checked the compression.
So I can't figure out why the compression would lose 45 pounds of compression AFTER getting a new head gasket. I turned the motor over by hand and all the valves are opening and closing, so I know that the cam is working properly. What would cause the car to not start after putting a head gasket on. I know it started and drove since it was driven into my driveway. I am confused and frustrated. I double checked the plugs and wires. It's getting fuel on the plugs, so I know it's getting fuel. I popped the air box off, so I know it was getting air. All the plugs and wires are new, but I tried the old ones thinking maybe I got bad parts. That did not help. I pulled a plug out and cranked the motor over to check for spark. I am getting spark. So what would cause this problem? Could the timing belt be off by a tooth and cuse it not to fire? It turns over just fine, it just won't fire.

ANY help at all would be helpful I am willing to try just about anything right now.

Thanks in advance!!

The CEL goes off after the two seconds. I can hear the Fuel Pump running, which is also evident with the fuel on the plugs. I also hear the main relay clicking after the CEL goes out. All the fuses are intact. I even replaced the ignition fuse under the dash just in case.

I do NOT have a scan tool to check for codes. Is there a way to do this with out a scan tool? Is there a place I can rent one from (Like Kragen's, or any other auto parts store?) A

ANY help is GREATLY appreciated. I thought I would have this done by last Friday, and had Autozone not dropped the ball I might have.

Turns out the timing belt was off by a few teeth. Fixed that and it started right up, and runs like a champ. Still a little worried about the comporession, but it is running, and the owner is happy with that.

As far as compression, that one particular cylinders rings and cylinder wall could be more worn than the rest of them and is only evident after a head gasket change.

Just for future reference...

You can check the CEL codes with a paper clip, piece of wire, etc. something to stick into the little blue plugs under the dash by the ecu. If they've never been touched, I guess they've got a green boot over the end, but it's the one with 2 pins, not 3. that's for a scanner. But anyway, the CEL will blink the code with the wire in and the key in the 'on' position. Not running, but 'on'. For instance, say you have a code 37. It'll blink 3 longs one followed by 7 short ones. That's it.