Hi. My 1990 Honda Civic DX, A/T, 149K miles starts fine and seems to be idling fine. Problem is after about 10 minutes of driving the engine will stall as I'm driving down the road. The CEL does come on, and I coast to a stop.

It will then start after about 5/15 minutes later and run fine. Sometimes I can only go a few hundred feet or 3 or 4 miles, and then it happens again.

My mechanic says he thinks it's the distributor, but from what I'm reading on the Internet, it sounds as if it may be the ICM? Is the ICM and Ignitor the same part? Any thoughts you have would be greatly appreciated.

The ICM is the problem I had the same issue with my 97 accord.. came on here and asked for help after changing the fuel pump for three hours lol after all that the ICM change fixed it for about a month then I had to change the cap rotor and wires all symptoms of stalling are gone and car runs good... the icm is a easy fix.. dissconect the negative cable remove the distributor cap and the four wires on the ICM then remove the three or four nuts holding it in install new ICM reverse way or removal... if your radio is stock get the lock code before you take the negative cable off... good luck.

Yes, the ICM and igniter are the same components. I recommend that you replace the ICM and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

This should solve your problem. This is the ideal time to also replace the rotor and distributor cap.

AWESOME! Thank you both so much for your help. I just ordered the ICM from Auto Zone ($49.95)right after I wrote my first message. So glad you guys agree. Part will be in on Monday and then to my mechanic's shop.

Will also order new rotor and distributor cap and will let you know on Monday. Hope you both have a great weekend!

I would also replace the coil.

That did appear to fix the problem, and I thank you both so much for your help. Hopefully, I won't have any more problems. But if I do, I'm definitely coming back here.

Have a great day!
thop2010

I have a 1990 honda civic that will not fire. It turns over and has gas, no spark.
The distributor has been change including cap, rotor, coil, ignitian modual and ecu. All fuse check out good. Where do I go from here?
Tim

timphelps, if the CEL comes on and goes out after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), the problem is likely with the distributor. I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings--all other are suspect. Aftermarket ICMs and coils have been fine, however. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD.

My 91 honda civic cranks and runs good.. but shuts off as I move about 3 or 4 foot.. it'll crank back up every time.. I have replaced the fuel pump the fuel filter the fuel pressure regulator and carburator and intake.. and it still has the same problem.. what should I do nw? I put a new distributor cap on it and pple keeps saying its my ingnition module.. what do you think

I would replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM), coil, and rotor. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM. This should solve your problem.

Hey,

I'm having somewhat a similar issue.

For the past week or so it takes like a extra sec to fire up and when it does in the morning it has a misfire like. Shaky and rough idle.

But this Saturday monring it won't fire at all turns over fine.. but won't start.
I can hear the fuel pump prime. So its not a fuel issue? Reading here could it be the ICM? Or Main Relay?

Thanks

Yes, you want to replace the ICM and coil. Apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM. This is the ideal time to also replace the rotor and distributor cap--high resistance in these worn components often destroys ICMs and coils.

I have a 1991 accord and the icm keeps failing. I've replaced it 4 times. Before it goes out the tack bounces under hard acceleration.

mudduc, are you applying silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM? Have you replaced the rotor, distributor cap, and spark plug wires in the last 60,000 miles? High secondary resistance can ruin ICMs and coils.

The last one I put in myself and I did put the siliscone on it. Not sure about the cap and wires. The previous owner said they did but I don't beleave them. I plan to replace cap wires plugs and coil along with a new icm. I hope that works. Car has 267000 miles on it.

mudduc, also replace the rotor, if it's not in great shape.

Hey so I got a 1990 hond CIVIC SI WITH A 1.6 D16A6 PORT POLISHED HEAD A lot OF EXTRAS BUT MY DIZZY keeps ing up I had it rebuilt and it was fine for a few weeks then it threw the icm had it fixed again warranty fine for a few weeks and then again the past couple days what do I do it will just shut off and throw the icm I have had three different icms put in honda oem and other aftermarket ones what is the deal anyone ever dealt with this before??

Studd, I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings--all others are junk, IMO. It's fine to install an aftermarket ICM and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing, however, to keep the cost down. Your experience is pretty typical.

I replaced the whole distrubtor car cranks no start 91 honda civic small little fore banger any ideas everything else is done fuel pump, plugs , wires, cap rotor no spark checked all fuses and fuseable links I'm getting ready to burn it

If the CEL consistently comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the problem is with the distributor. I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings, where it's fine to use aftermarket ICMs and coils to keep the cost down. Most aftermarket distributors for Hondas work best as boat anchors.