I have a whirlpool due washter and steam dryer. Lately when I wash a load of clothes I get an F35 code error, the machine stops. I can't find anywhere what this code means. Help@@ Love my washer and dryer, but I can't wash my clothes with this error code. Thank you very much!

There is a problem with the Analog Pressure Sensor. This sensor is near the back right of the machine (viewed from the front) when the top is removed. It has a hose going to it and an electrical connection.

Be prepared for some sticker shock when you price the sensor. Last time I used one, it came up as almost $130 for the sensor. Hopefully you can find one cheaper online...

Will try this thank you very much... and will let you know

We just solved our problem. A repairman told us to take the front cover off. This is the cover just below the tub. It has star type screws so you will need this type of attachment for a screwdriver. Right in the middle is type of holder that is attached to a hose that a cap can be screwed off. Make sure you have towels to catch the water that is released when you take the cap off. You will probably find all kinds of goodies. We did. Five dollars in change and pieces of a pen. Hope this solves your problem. Solved mine. Good luck!

I don't liked to plagiarize, but what cc1018said above,

"We just solved our problem. A repairman told us to take the front cover off. This is the cover just below the tub. It has star type screws so you will need this type of attachment for a screwdriver. Right in the middle is type of holder that is attached to a hose that a cap can be screwed off. Make sure you have towels to catch the water that is released when you take the cap off. You will probably find all kinds of goodies. We did. Five dollars in change and pieces of a pen. Hope this solves your problem. Solved mine. Good luck!"...

... is the answer all of us experiencing this inconvienent ploblem SHOULD have been told in the first place before some of the unfortunate spent $130-$140 on a "water level sensor"!

We have had our Whirlpool Duet Steam washer and dryer for over three years now. The only issue we had about a year ago was one of our 3yr old son's sock got stuck in the discharge hose, not allowing it to properly drain. We recently started getting the same F35 error code. I scoured the internet for our repeat problem, and after reading countless (atleast a two dozen) asnwers that they were all told to go buy this replacement sensor (by guess who... Whirlpool Techs of course! ) we found cc1018's answer, and sure enough... we found some loose change (not $5 worth... I wish) but the other missing sock to our 3yr olds collection! Hello Lady!

I am sorry for all those who were taken and had to spend that kind of "extra" money on an applaiance that we all paid a pretty penny for anyway, when the whole time it was this plug under the tub. The total time it -took me to take the panel off and drain the water out of this screw-type plug was less than 5min. It was so easy, I even did it in my suit and tie with out a mess. Just have the towel pressed up against the cap while turning it slowly open. Keep moving the towel as it becomes soaked. No mess and a quick fix.

Not really an answer but curious as to how to get the front (below the tub) off? Is there a trick to that?

There are three star screw that need to be undone and it pops right off.

Did exactly as others stated with drain plug on bottom of machine. Did not solve problem. F35 error still came up. Researched and found out about a diagnostic test - see below:
Execute this procedure with an empty drum. All of the steps
Below must be done in sequence in order to reach the Diagnostic
Test. This executes the automatic test only.

1. Close the door.
2. Push power.
3. Select the “Drain and Spin” program.
4. Deselect the rinse option (for Kenmore only).
5. Select “No spin”.
6. Push PREWASH or STEAM TREAT or DEEP CLEAN button
7. (depending on your model) four times within five seconds”.
8. The automated test program is started (not possible to skip
9. steps).
10. To cancel the test program press the “Stop” button.

[/LIST][/LIST]
Should go through all 9 cycles (C00 - C09). Mine went to F35 after C01 which referred to cold water inlet valve. Disconnected cold water hose on back of machine and cleaned off screen on inside of plastic valve on back of machine(used q-tip). Reconnected hose, re-ran diagnotic test to end successfully. The machine has an internal flowmeter. If there is blockage of water into system, will trigger error code F35. No reason to replace pressure switch unless you still have a problem. This worked for me.

The power of the internet is truly amazing.

Tried all the above stuff... emptied drain (found quarter and some gum) cleaned cold and hot in flow screens (not much but some crud), blew out pressure sensor hose and cleaned my floor behind washer for first time since install 4 yrs ago (gross but unrelated). Still got sud/ F35 code after each item I tried until I ran the diagnostic test shown by nsekas above.

Close the door.
Push power.
Select the “Drain and Spin” program.
Deselect the rinse option (for Kenmore only).
Select “No spin”.
Push PREWASH or STEAM TREAT or DEEP CLEAN button
(depending on your model) four times within five seconds”.
The automated test program is started (not possible to skip
Steps).

The test ran through perfectly. This seemed to reset the machine after the cleaning of those sites and all worked fine after that.

Thanks to all who contributed to fixing my washer!

SL

Hello to Frustrated Whirlpool Duet Steam Owners -

About that F 35 error code - this has plagued our machine.

We had a repair man out, he replaced the Pressure Sensor and this worked.

But then the error code came back after a few weeks. Then I checked the hot and cold water inlets. There was a lot of crud on the hot water one (on the washer side - there is a nyloc plug / filter to remove and clean. This worked... again for a few weeks.

Then I tried the drain plug repair - but this was not my problem.

In frustration, I unplugged the machine and took off the top cover (3 screws on the top rear of the machine, the same hex / star style as for the drain plug cover below the tub). There are quite a few wire harnesses and connectors. I wiggled them all and pushed the connectors together to tighten the connections (this same trick works in old cars sometimes). Viola - the machine is working again.

The moral of the story - the F 35 Error code is pretty unspecific - not very useful - it translates to "something is wrong, but we at Whirlpool don't know what".

I suspect that there was nothing wrong with the Pressure Sensor, and that the act of replacing the Pressure Sensor tightened some of those loose wires.

Good Luck!

Where did you find or can you post what the cycles refer to. Mine went to f35 after C00 and did not go any farther (as in C01) for the cold water inlet.

Whirlpool Duet Test Overview
Indication
Control Action
Actuators to be Checked
C:00
Washer Door is Locked
Washer Door Lock System
C:01
Filling with cold water inlet valve
Duet washer flowmeter, Cold water inlet valve
C:02
Distribution system is set to Prewash position
Dispenser motor,
Dispenser contact
C:03
Fill with hot water inlet valve
Hot water inlet valve
C:04
Duet washer basket rotates clockwise at wash speed
Duet washer Motor, MCU control
C:05
Washer's heater is switched ON.
Basket rotates clockwise with wash speed. If there is not enough water in the tub, the water inlet valve will be switched ON to fill-in the minimum water quantity.
NOTE: On GHW9100 Models only the Temperature Sensor will be checked
Duet washer Heater, Temperature Sensor
C:06
Duet drain Pump is ON
Duet washer Drain Pump
C:07
Duet washer basket rotates counterclockwise
From 35 to 90 rpm
Within 15 seconds
Duet washer Motor, MCU control
C:08
Basket rotates counterclockwise
With max. speed
Basket speed > 1100 rpm
Duet washer Motor, MCU control

To ndab1016 and all who are having trouble getting the front panel off: You need an Allen wrench (those are the bent 90 degree things that don't look like conventional wrenches. I have a set that contains all the different sizes. I highly recommend having a set of them around, because you need one that is the exact size to fit inside the star-shaped screw. When you have the right size (the one needed is pretty small) you put the small end into the front of the screw and use it lie a lever, right to left, until you loosen the screw. Make sense?

And yes, add my voice to the chorus who thanked cc1018 for the right answer! Just take off the front panel, clean out the drain and voilà! Problem solved.l

After running the diagnosis, mine went to error code F35 after being on C00, mine never made it to C01 or further, does this mean that I should spend the $100 and buy the pressure switch?

Followed all of your helpful tips for error code F35 and Suds. Washer still not working.

Blew out pressure sensor hose (gurgled when I did it)
Cleaned drain trap (unremarkable but did find an earring and a bobby pin)
Replaced pressure sensor ($88 Sears)
Cleaned intake from cold & hot water
Jiggled all connections
Reran diagnostics and am getting F35 after C00

Any ideas?

I am in the market for a front loader set... my first one... and I scoured Craigslist and came across a pair of Whirlpool front load Washer and Dryer with duet steam. The post says, "Dryer works good. Washer does not work. It will start to fill with water then it has a F35 code. We are asking $200.00 for the Washer. $500.00 for the Dryer."
Is it worth it to gamble on a 4 year old set? Any advice?

For this missive I shall call myself SPEWY!

OK. I have also been plagued by the SUD/F35 issue off and on for years after the washer worked perfectly fine for some time.

By and large, it got to a point where it would 50/50 go through the SUD issue but still pick up after that so I didn't care, it worked in the end. Once in a while I would also get F35 and have to unplug the unit and restart and it would go through. Certainly not worth a $$$ service call for me when I can just "reboot" it and it works, I do that all day long anyway.

But the other night it got grumpy. Hard F35s over and over again through multiple reboots and such. Then you get int a cycle were the soap (HE powder) leaks out during the fails and probably makes an actual true SUD and you have to run the rinse/spin before starting fresh and whatever.

Thankfully I found this thread and started working through it. The last/first time I had searched the F35 code the only guidance was the bogus steam sensor switch replacement. Which years ago I found specious anyway. I was happy to have the steam feature but in reality used it sparingly so I could not figure out how it went "bad" from such non use. But now in 2014 we see the truth, F35 is a NON-SPECIFIC error code like some junky Microsoft permissions error code. It starts you off but there are 10 possibilities, not just one.

So I opened the bottom and was really hoping that was it as my dryer is stacked on top of the washer from a recent reno (with the kit). Which by the way was not the original side by side config. And the F35 DID get worse for a time after the stacking but then went away again. The guy here who said certain pressures on the electronics may affect this all as well is likely correct In my opinion. Jiggle everything, the old but true method.

My drain trap was not that bad. Some dirt. No money or socks. Oddly there were items I at first though were sticks (I have dogs and wash dog bedding, thought it was sticks/mulch) but after looking they seemed to be semi circular metal strands. Like some round piece of metal flanging had busted out from inside the washer itself, rusted, and ended up in the trap.

Then I ran the full diagnostic from here. And found the secret manual taped up on the side of the inside of the unit for more. And my diag kept failing at C00 with a F35 without getting even to C01. So I read through things and it seemed like the "steam" function of C01 was failing. It could not reach that point. So I undid all that I could have the hoses on both supply and termination points into the washer and wiped them out, etc. Hot and two cold lines (one for steam). I never found any screens. It's just connects. Maybe if there was a screen it was killed by the plumber when he stacked the units and redid the water lines. Don't know. I then prayed that some of the talk hear about jiggling up the wiring and connects from the TOP would not apply to me as I was not easily going to get to the top since it was stacked. I did jiggle and fiddle with everything under the unit I could see. As well as the pump out water line.

Then I redid the diag and same thing. Failed at C00. Argh. I felt I was so close. Then I realized I had turned the hot supply back on but not the cold. Then ran the diag OK for 3 cycles and am now making laundry :) So it seemed to be some combo of the drain trap being gunked up and the fitting on the cold supply to the steam input for me. Definitely when the diag failed at C00 before going onto C01 (steam) I did not hear the steam action going. Which also makes me think the last few times I have run the steam cycle to refresh items it was not actually working but also not actually failing 100%, LOL. The system seems to be poorly engineered. To me, if the steamer is failed it should just affect the steamer, not knock the entire washing unit offline. If I can't steam so be it but I would still like to actually wash my items versus going rogue off to the bobo laundromat!

I still see the SUD code. I suspect the hose needs cleaning for that one but I can not easily get to it so will just suffer through the delay for now and smile at not having some tech come out to replace a sensor that is not really "broken" as per the initial guidance.

Hope this helps someone!

Except for this annoying problem I have loved the washer and dryer (gas) and they are far superior to what they replaced. It has been annoying, but unlike in the old days when I would have just called a repair tech in flat out, BECAUSE it is so computerized and because the secret diag test was released I could resolve the issue myself with no actual parts upgrades. Just a screwdriver and some towels and a wrench. For now...