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    smccann's Avatar
    smccann Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Oct 6, 2010, 05:09 PM
    Pump will not kick on till gauge reads 0.
    The pump will cut out at 65. I have instaled a brand new preset switch 20/40. Turn on a faucet and the pressure gauge falls to 0. wait a few minutes and the pump kicks on. The air tank is holding pressure.
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,020, Reputation: 157
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    #2

    Oct 7, 2010, 05:57 PM

    Did you check the little tube leading to the switch? If it's clogged up, the switch will be VERY slow to respond.
    smccann's Avatar
    smccann Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Oct 8, 2010, 11:15 AM
    Comment on jlisenbe's post
    Yea, I changed the tub and the nipples. There was some deposits in them. I also changed the gauge. It will only pump up to 65psi and not come on till zero psi. I did take off the hose while it was draining, It came on then. Little bit of water came.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #4

    Oct 8, 2010, 12:03 PM

    Control boxes a aren't that pricy. Why not simply replace with a 30/50 control and be done with it? Good luck, Tom
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,020, Reputation: 157
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    #5

    Oct 8, 2010, 01:58 PM

    A few questions:

    Yea, I changed the tub and the nipples.(What nipples are you referring to???) There was some deposits in them. I also changed the gauge. It will only pump up to 65psi (You have a brand new 20/40 switch on. It should be cutting off at 40) and not come on till zero psi. I did take off the hose while it was draining (What was draining?), It came on then. Little bit of water came.

    If your pump is getting up to 65#, even with the pump off you should be able to get several minutes of water at good pressure before it begins to slow to a trickle. Is that the case?

    Even with the switch being new, it is possible that it is defective. It certainly sounds that way, with the pump going up to 65 and then not cutting back on until zero.

    BTW, do you have a filter or softener on your system?


    For some reason I can't edit my last post. On the issue of changing the tube and nipples, I'm just wanting to be sure we are talking about the same tube. This is the 1/4" tube going to the switch. I'm not aware of anything on that pipe which could be termed a "nipple". You might be referring to the "T fitting" which screws into the bottom of the pressure tank and has fittings for gauges, switches, etc.
    smccann's Avatar
    smccann Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Oct 8, 2010, 02:15 PM
    We Are talking the same thing. I changed out the tube and fitting. I plan on changing out the switch again. I bought this one from Lowe's and it has one spring. My old one had two springs. The guy said it would work on any pump. Have u heard of this

    The only thing that has me confussed is my pump was acting this way before I installed a new switch. Cause nothing changed. Did not know if it was the switch or something else.
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,020, Reputation: 157
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    #7

    Oct 8, 2010, 03:18 PM

    Try another switch and let us know how it goes.

    This is what you bought:

    Shop ProPlumber 20/40 Pressure Switch at Lowes.com

    This is a good brand of switch.

    Shop Square D 20 to 40 PSI Water Pump Pressure Switch at Lowes.com

    Still, I just don't think your problem is the switch.
    smccann's Avatar
    smccann Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Oct 9, 2010, 09:55 AM
    Comment on jlisenbe's post
    I agree. I've been talking to some guy's at work who have some experience with wells.
    They are telling me it is the foot valve. So I may need to pull the line. My well is 25' deep and I have a emerson 2 line jet pump.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #9

    Oct 9, 2010, 10:40 AM

    To test your foot valve let the pump run up to pressure and quit. Now shut 5the pump off at the breaker box and watch the gage. If it holds steady the foot valve's OK If the gage drops to zero then you have a bad foot valve. But wait! Are you quite sure you have a foot valve at the bottom of your well or do you have a check valve on the suction line near then pump? But even if you do have a foot valve that's open why not leave it alone and install a check valve on the surface? This would save you from having to pull the well point. Good luck, Tom
    smccann's Avatar
    smccann Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Oct 9, 2010, 10:57 AM
    Comment on speedball1's post
    I know there is no check valve. I have done this test and it will no not drop quickly. I have noticed a real slow drop through out the day. I will try it again to make sure and get a new switch. Were would it be installed and will it hold water.
    smccann's Avatar
    smccann Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Oct 9, 2010, 11:06 AM
    Comment on speedball1's post
    I will do this tomorrow , I'm at work. The only leak I have is the toilet and it is not much. I will try the square D switch. I appreciate you help on this. Should it drop rapidly or can it be slow. I will turn the toilet off to do this.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #12

    Oct 9, 2010, 11:21 AM

    I will try it again to make sure and get a new switch. Were would it be installed and will it hold water.
    Are you asking where to install the switch or a surface check valve?
    I have done this test and it will no not drop quickly. I have noticed a real slow drop through out the day.
    That doesn't sound like a bad foot valve to me.
    Let me know how the new switch works. After installing the new switch, and before you pressure up, Don't forget to set the PSI in the bladder tank to 2 PSI under the cut in point on the control box.
    If you have a 30/50 box. Then set the PSI on the bladder tank at 28 PSI. Now turn on the pump and test your work. Good luck, Tom
    smccann's Avatar
    smccann Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Oct 9, 2010, 03:10 PM
    Comment on speedball1's post
    Check valve. If I need one.

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