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    70chevelless's Avatar
    70chevelless Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 30, 2010, 09:37 AM
    Toro 524 traction
    Good Morning,
    I have a toro 524 model # 38040 ser. # 900163 from 1979 that my father bought new & when he passed away I got her.
    Since having her the only thing I have had to do is back in 2001 the engine blew so I bought & put on a Briggs & Stratton 7.5 hp intek snow.
    Until this year I won't go into why I had to do what I did as it is a long story but I put in a used axle bought from eBay (since I could not get the original wheels off her) new wheels, bearings, & snow hog tires.
    Since I had to cut the old axle to get her off I noticed that the rubber drive wheel was almost sitting on the front pulley. Having the original owners manual I adjusted it per the manual.
    After doing this I found she would not move in forward (3 speeds forward 2 reverse) so I put her back to where she was.
    I tried her for the first time yesterday (as we live on a hill which has a very steep drive) I found that in first she just about crawls up the driveway!
    I don't understand this as she was fine before & as I said is almost touching the front pulley but the rear friction disc which causes her to go into reverse works fine speed wise.
    What I'm thinking is after 30 plus years the rubber drive wheel is worn so I orderd one but have not gotten it yet.
    Also I'm thinking it may be the traction belt & am going to check that latter as I can't remember if I ever changed the belts when I put the new engine in her.
    So my questions are does anyone have a clue as to why it is crawling in forward gear? & is there anything else I should check once I get her in the garage?
    As she is in the barn right now and it is -20 outside. Any help would be great!
    Thank you,
    Will,
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
     
    #2

    Jan 30, 2010, 12:38 PM

    Hi,
    Looking at the engine specs, I see that the new engine is 0.030" lower at the centerline of the crankshaft. Now this is not much, but may well affect the power transfer.
    Peace,
    Clarke
    70chevelless's Avatar
    70chevelless Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 30, 2010, 01:48 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by crigby View Post
    Hi,
    Looking at the engine specs, I see that the new engine is 0.030" lower at the centerline of the crankshaft. Now this is not much, but may well affect the power transfer.
    Peace,
    Clarke
    Thank you Clarke for your help. What I can't understand is I put the engine on her back in 2001 & she ran great up until I did what I had mentioned.
    Here is the reason I did what I did one night about a month ago (as I work 3rd shift) I went out to do the drive well all of a sudden the engine just stopped. I went to pull the cord & it was frozen first thing I thought was I blew the engine but come to find out one of the chains came off & got jammed in the impeller.
    So after about a half hour of prying it I got the chain out & she started right back up & finished the drive.
    Next morning when I came home from work I found that the tire that the chain had come off was flat & off the wheel (these were the original wheels tires & chains) so I could not get the wheel off tried a tube but the tire was so bad the tube came out between the wheel & tire.
    So the rest is history but the night it happen on a flat tire after the chain was removed the snow thrower ran great I mean the speed was right there. It wasn't until I did all this work & adjusted the rubber drive wheel equal distance from the front pulley & the rear friction disc as the manual said that I had the problem but not only that even when I put the rubber drive wheel back to where it was the problem is still there.
    I'm sorry for the length of this but I figured if u knew why maybe that will help.
    Thank you again!
    Will,
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    70chevelless Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Jan 31, 2010, 04:38 AM
    Toro shear pins
    Good morning,
    I have been told that the shear pins could be causing this problem! Now I know that yes the shear pins should have broke as she ate a chain & stopped the thrower but I do not think this is causing my problem as the auger is turning fine & have used it after I did the work & she shot out the snow & a few pine cones.
    Not only that but even with the auger off & the snow thrower running in the garage she is still to me moving awfully slow! I'm going to bring her out of the barn today & in the garage to check her but as u know the old Toro's had those big drums for augers & getting to the shear pins (which Toro does not even call them is a nightmear at best)
    I was also told that the rubber drive wheel is suppose to be 1/8 of an inch from the front pulley this could be true but I don't know why the owners manual says to adjust the rubber wheel equal distance between the front pulley & rear friction disc.
    So if anyone can tell me what I should look for today please let me know? One other thing can anyone tell me what the speed should be in first on a Toro 524?
    Thank you very much for your help!
    Will,
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
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    #5

    Jan 31, 2010, 07:59 AM
    Hi,
    Toro only calls their shear pins bolts because they are either Grade 0 or 2 bolts. The directions are pretty doggone poor in the 1987 manual available at Toro and available at:
    Toro - Lawn Mowers, Zero Turn Mowers, Tractors, Snow Blowers
    Under the Customer Service section.
    The bolt #20 in the picture (this is supposed to be 1979) with part# 321-33 could be sheared. I would also check for movement of the various shafts to see if a bearing is worn out and causing unwanted movement.
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    70chevelless's Avatar
    70chevelless Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Feb 2, 2010, 06:55 PM
    Primer bulb flat!
    Good Evening,
    First I would like to Thank everyone who has helped me & put up with my long posts.
    Well I put new belts on my snow thrower yesterday & fired her up today I left the belt cover off to make sure they were fine & they looked good so with the auger off I put her in 1st & she seemed to have the power she had before. Then I put the auger on tried her & the power was fine I shut down the auger & she stopped right away.
    So I shut her down went inside for a while I went back out to start her up & let the auger run as I changed the auger oil. I did not need to prime her (this is important so I did not look at the primer bulb) I let her run for about 15 min. drained the auger oil tipped her on her handles filled her with 90w oil.
    Then I wanted to start her to try her on the drive but when I went to prime her the bulb was flat! There was a pin hole in the center of the bulb I could not believe a piece of rubber & I'm dead in the water. So I took her off & super glued the whole I looked all over the internet for one no luck.
    The engine is a Briggs & Stratton 7.5 hp intek snow that I bought & put on new back in 02-03 model # 12D413 0019E1
    What I noticed was when she was running the oil tube was vibrating a lot but since I never looked at this before I'm not sure if this is normal also she seemed to be running fast but then again I never started her in the garage so not sure about this.
    My question is could I have put the traction belt on to tight? Are these primer bulbs made to blow a hole to prevent damage?
    Back in 07 the engine was really racing so I looked at the governor & found a spring broke after replacing both springs I wrote to B&S & they sent me a repair manual free so I did the adjustments & she ran fine. Why I say this is then the engine was really racing & the primer bulb did not blow then!
    I just can't understand why she blew the pin whole is it something I did the belts? Or just bad luck.
    I really have no clue but think this must be a feature to prevent more damage I don't know.
    Any help or if anyone had this problem please let me know? Also if anyone knows where I can get one please let me know but I don't want to put a new one on just to happen again because there is something more serious?
    Well Thank you again for putting up with me & look forward to any replies!
    Will,
    70chevelless's Avatar
    70chevelless Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Feb 3, 2010, 06:01 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by crigby View Post
    Hi,
    Toro only calls their shear pins bolts because they are either Grade 0 or 2 bolts. The directions are pretty doggone poor in the 1987 manual available at Toro and available at:
    Toro - Lawn Mowers, Zero Turn Mowers, Tractors, Snow Blowers
    under the Customer Service section.
    The bolt #20 in the picture (this is supposed to be 1979) with part# 321-33 could be sheared. I would also check for movement of the various shafts to see if a bearing is worn out and causing unwanted movement.
    Good Morning,
    Thank you for the diagram yap that's the beast I'm hopping the belt took care of the traction problem but since my primer bulb went flat I did not get a chance to use her on the driveway & at this rate I'll need to call a plow truck!
    I do have a doctors apointment today & there is a farm & tractor store there they have helped me in the past so hopefully they will have the shear bolts as I do have part numbers for them. As far as the bulb I can't even find it on the Briggs & Stratton web site so I have no part number for that.
    I did glue mine up well the pin hole (but was told by someone it is suppose to have one Oh well) The only thing I know is I hooked it up to the carb last night before going to work & she seemed to have primed the carb I did not start her as it was to late so I have no clue.
    I agree I think all these manuals you can throw out I just don't know why Toro put that drum on the new ones look so easy. You should read the 79 owners manual that came with the toro on changing the drive belt they make it sound like a walk in the park! It's not it's more like a walk through hell that or I'm stupid!
    Anyway I want to Thank you again for all your help & wish me luck I really feel like I entered the twilight zone! It's like this thing is never going to move out of the garage & it's fighting me to see who is going to give up first right now it's winning. Since I missed trash day I have one more week LOL.
    Will,
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
     
    #8

    Feb 3, 2010, 07:36 AM

    Hi,
    The primer should be part# 695750 and the hole in the center is necessary since it is the vent for the bowl of the carb. It will start without it, but should die shortly after since the carb cannot work properly with out having the bowl vented.\Peace,
    Clarke

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