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    johnneedshelp's Avatar
    johnneedshelp Posts: 67, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
    		  
    #1

    Nov 16, 2009, 05:17 PM
    Hooking up a Beacon Morris garage heater
    Hello
    I just purchased a Beacon Morris garage heater. It is a BRU-75. I was wondering if anyone could tell me where I could purchase a thermostat for this particular model. I want to have a switch on the thermostat that will let me shut off the unit when I don't want it to run. I don't want to heat the garage all the time. It will not run an AC unit so I need a heat only thermostat. I checked at Menards and I don't think that they had one.
    The second question is, how do you hook up the thermostat? The unit comes with directions but they certainly are not intended for layman such as myself. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Joshdta's Avatar
    Joshdta Posts: 2,549, Reputation: 45
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    #2

    Nov 16, 2009, 05:26 PM

    This unit should have a 24 volt transformer so any heating t-stat should work with just 2 wires. There should be a 2 termanal wire hook up it the back of the unit.
    johnneedshelp's Avatar
    johnneedshelp Posts: 67, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Nov 16, 2009, 05:47 PM

    Thanks
    On the back of the unit it has terminals labeled R G W1 W2. Which two would I use? Since I want a thermostat with a switch on it, do I somehow hook it up so if the switch should get turned off while heating, the fan will stay running until the unit cools?
    Joshdta's Avatar
    Joshdta Posts: 2,549, Reputation: 45
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    #4

    Nov 16, 2009, 06:04 PM

    R and w1 for heat
    You need to use the g if you want to run just fan
    johnneedshelp's Avatar
    johnneedshelp Posts: 67, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Nov 16, 2009, 09:03 PM

    Do I have to do the pressure test for the gas like the directions say. I talked to a plumber and he showed me how he would hook it up. He however did not mention the pressure test.
    hvacservicetech_07's Avatar
    hvacservicetech_07 Posts: 1,083, Reputation: 75
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    #6

    Nov 16, 2009, 09:42 PM

    You really should check and or adjust gas pressure to be safe,especially if you are L.P gas. You will need a manometer to do so. If your gas pressure is too high you risk ruining your heat exchanger. Good luck!
    johnneedshelp's Avatar
    johnneedshelp Posts: 67, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
    		  
    #7

    Nov 22, 2009, 09:04 PM
    Thanks for all the great help so far everyone. I hung the heater this weekend. I ran into a problem with venting to the outside. When I run the class be vent tubing, I need to run horiztonally with a slight pitch. Can I run the vent with a 90 degree elbow directly off the back of the unit, across the width of the unit, and then add a 45 degree angle just before it goes through the outside wall? I will attach a very rough sketch if I can figure out how to add attachment.

    Sorry hvacservicetech_07 I meant so say agrees. I don't know why It says disagrees. I don't know how to change it.
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    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
    		  
    #8

    Nov 22, 2009, 09:33 PM
    See install instructions

    Beacon/Morris Residential, Commercial, Heat, Hot Water, Steam, Gas, Hydronic, Kickspace Heaters, Oil.

    Pay very close attention to the written word and the chart/diagrams. I do not believe what you are attempting to do will comply with the factory directions.
    johnneedshelp's Avatar
    johnneedshelp Posts: 67, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Nov 23, 2009, 04:35 PM

    I think your right. So now the question is how hard would it be to vent out of the roof. I am afraid to cut a hole in the roof because I am not sure how to make it water tight. Hmmm, I am going to have to think about this one.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #10

    Nov 23, 2009, 07:49 PM
    They make a roof flashing for all the different manufactures of B vent and that if properly installed will prevent any leaks.

    If you could lower the heater then going out the side wall could still be a option.
    rlbell51's Avatar
    rlbell51 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #11

    Dec 19, 2009, 04:34 PM
    I also have a question on installing this unit. On connecting the electrical. The L1 is the hot wire and the L2 is the neutral?
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #12

    Dec 19, 2009, 05:37 PM
    Usually L1 and L2 are for power so you might have a 240 volt unit.

    Post brand and exact model number.
    Also post description of unit.
    rlbell51's Avatar
    rlbell51 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Dec 20, 2009, 08:52 AM

    I am sorry.. the unit I have is a beacon morris bru 45. Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like L1 is the hot leg and L2 is the neutral. Just want to be sure.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #14

    Dec 20, 2009, 09:18 AM
    Your wiring diagram and furnace service manual is on the right side this page.

    Looks like your unit is 120volt L2 neutral

    Beacon/Morris Residential, Commercial, Heat, Hot Water, Steam, Gas, Hydronic, Kickspace Heaters, Oil.
    rlbell51's Avatar
    rlbell51 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #15

    Dec 20, 2009, 10:14 AM

    So my hot (black) incoming goes to L1 and my netural ( white incoming goes to L2
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #16

    Dec 20, 2009, 10:20 AM
    It seems to be that way. It is not actually identified on the drawing
    rlbell51's Avatar
    rlbell51 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #17

    Dec 20, 2009, 10:43 AM

    Yes.. I was unclear to me also. Thanks so much for your help. If you come up with any other ideas let me know.

    Bob
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