Hi.

Just last week, the speedometer on my 94 Honda Civic DX started malfunctioning. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. When it does work, it looks like there is no problem at all. So basically it's either at 0 or at the correct speed. What's wrong with my car? Everything else seems to be working fine. Is this going to effect anything with how my car runs?

Check/replace the Variable Speed Sensor (VSS) unit on the transmission. First, make sure the connection is corrosion-free.

I have a 94 cx, and my speedo started doing the same thing about 6 months ago. It would work fine, and then just stop working altogether. But last week it went haywire. It now reads that I am going 120mph at idle, and the needle is pinned on the underside of the "zero" marker when I'm moving. My odometer doesn't work either. Anyway, my car started with the same symptoms as yours.

I looked up some stuff and found out that the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation system) is turned on when the vehicle is going more than 10 mph. This could lead to incomplete combustion in my case. Probably not yours though.

Anyway, tell me if the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) fix worked. I'd like to figure a way of fixing this myself.

I'm not sure if this applies to a 1994 civic but I've had a similar problem on my 1997 car.

Basically, last year everything died leaving only an 'O2 Sensor Failure' Engine Code. After using Txgreasemonkey's K-Test, I found that the ECM had failed. I got the ECM reconditioned which got the car working again.

Shortly after, the speedo stopped working properly - erratically bouncing around from 0 to 140mph. I found and replaced a blown fuse in the drivers fuse box which solved the problem but later it blew again. This fuse also protects the alternator so when blown, the battery wasn't charging and the car lights pulsed (got brighter and dimmer). I put in higher fuses which sorted the problem for a while, but last week even 20A fuses were blowing as soon as the ignition was turned. After a bit of googling, I found this:

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If you look under the intake manifold at the rear of the engine there is a pack of wires. This pack rubs on the bottom of the intake and creates a short circuit which screws up the speedo, sets off the check engine light and gives a trouble code (if you know how to read the check engine flashes) that there is a problem with the O2 sensor, and sometimes the headlights would surge.

Just crawl under the car when it is up on stands and gently turn over the pack of wires under the intake to expose the bare wire or wires. Tape them up and away you go.

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I've been under the car today to have a look and as soon as I did, I could see straight away that the wires were exposed. A bit of insulation tape and 30 minutes later everything is fixed again. I hope this helps some one in the future as it's been bugging me for 9 months and now I'm glad the problem's resolved.

This same issue recently occurred on my 95 civic DX 1.5L. It did not affect any of the other functions on my car. Six months later I replaced the entire speedometer/odometer assembly . Honda claims that only they sell the part. The part cost me $348 US dollars. The part # is 78115-sr3-a42. I would check at a scrap yard and online before paying this. Another example of poor manufacturing

Yes, it's amazing the poor quality of most instrumentation--even on Toyotas. When you tear into them, you are shocked.

I read another user's solution and after trying many things... YOU HAVE TO TRY THIS.

Look under the hood and find some wiring grouped under the intake. The wiring has been rubbing against a metal piece and this rubbing has caused the wires to be bare. The short is hurting the operating of your speedometer. With some electrical tape and some effort you can fix this in 20 minutes. Wrap the electrical tape around the wires where the wires are rubbing against the metal piece. It will be obvious if you get your elbows a little dirty.

Otherwise you can try and replace the VSS and Speedometer only to be out hundreds of dollars and still have a faulty speedometer.

I did it tonight, and after months of anguish I fixed my 98 civic.

hondacivic2008 I have a question.. I have the same problem. Could you upload a pic or a diagram of were to taped up?. cz there's wires on the side of the intake manifold. I've taped that up but it didn't make any difference. Do I have to phyically go under the car and find a bunch of wires.. cz if so I'll give that a go 2mrw.

Thanks.

I have the same problem, and many have told me the problem is the "pin" behind the speedometer, many said to just replace the whole cluster (basically replace the speedometer) and now some of you say to wrap tape around some wires near the intake? I too need the diagram of that, but is there really a real mechanic that's fixed this issue before? On here I mean.

When you are under the car, look up at the intake manifold. There is bracket that's bolted to the bottom of the intake & to the side of the engine block. The wires in question run on top of that bracket & are prone to rubbing through. Pull the bracket loose, get a piece of 3/8" fuel line about 3" long. Slice the fuel line vertically & fill it with orange silicone & slide it over the bundle of wires where they are wearing. Let it set for about an hour & reinstall the bracket. viola, problem solved plus you have also placed a shield over the potential wear area. Just using electrical tape will be a temporary fix.

I have a 94 civic coupe and my speedometer stopped working I've change my speed sensor and it still doesn't work?what can be the problem?

I have solved a similar problem on my 98' Honda Civic VTEC-E.

Problem description:
- Intermittently wobbling tachometer
- Speedometer indicating incorrect speeds up to +/- 40 km/h
- Speedometer occasionally stuck at max speed after turning off engine

Solution:
There was no wear or rubbing of the cables that run from the instrument panel to the VSS, as described in other posts. So this was not causing the problem.
The VSS was faulty, indicated by non-zero resistance at stand still. However, replacement did not solve the problem.
It was solved by replacing the instrument panel as cracked solder was most probably resulting in the symptoms.

The instrument panel cost was 50 euro at a local car disassembly. Replacement is very easy and takes about 20 minutes. See technical manual for help.
If a replacement panel can not be found, resoldering the connections in the panel might help.

Good luck.