Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    tmeyer01's Avatar
    tmeyer01 Posts: 136, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #1

    Oct 30, 2009, 12:24 PM
    Leaf blower won't stay running
    I have a Craftsman Blower/Vac Mulcher. 32cc, 170 MPH, 360 CFM. I can get it to start just fine and it will go to full RPM when I hit the throttle but weather it is full throttle or just idle, it will kill after about 5-7 seconds or so every time. The choke is off and the gas is new (few months anyway). What could be the problem and what should I try? Thanks
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
     
    #2

    Oct 30, 2009, 02:18 PM

    Hi,
    I would say it is the inlet screen in the carb; could be the fuel filter, but that is the second choice. Thet would be #5 in the picture.
    You stated too little info to go beyond there.
    Peace,
    Clarke
    Attached Images
     
    tmeyer01's Avatar
    tmeyer01 Posts: 136, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #3

    Nov 2, 2009, 10:47 AM
    Still won't run
    I pulled that side off the carb but the screen appears to be fine. I blew through it OK. This picture appears to have one more piece than what I found. I took off the very outside (left in this picture) and inside that was a black gasket and inside that was the screen and main carb housing. This pic shows another layer. Anyway, that appears to be clear. I removed the fuel filter in the gas tank as well and that seems clear. I put in brand new oil and gas but I still have the same problem. It doesn't matter if I have it at full throttle or just idle, it will run fine for about 5 seconds and then just die. I've attached a picture of where I was at.
    Thanks,
    Attached Images
     
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
     
    #4

    Nov 2, 2009, 11:23 AM

    Hi,
    The piece you have between your finger and thumb is actually two, a gasket and the fuel pump diaphragm. I see some deformation there.
    I would check the other side of the carb to see if the metering diaphragm is stiff. It must be completely supple to meter properly. If you can grasp the disc and wiggle and hear any sound of it moving (like a "crinkle") it si the culprit. Four small screws at the corners. Carb is a WT model and uses a K20-WAT kit.
    Peace,
    Clarke
    tmeyer01's Avatar
    tmeyer01 Posts: 136, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #5

    Nov 2, 2009, 01:28 PM
    So I grabbed the disc and moved it and I can hear it kind of pop in and out. (like a jar top after the seal has been broken).

    I should replace then that by getting a new kit? Just want to make sure.

    Thanks,
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
     
    #6

    Nov 2, 2009, 09:34 PM

    Hi,
    The kit is to safe way. I have done it many a time; but I was part of a repair facility and that was my job. I do not think I was often wrong; but I know I was on very rare occasions.
    Best of luck
    Peace,
    Clarke
    tmeyer01's Avatar
    tmeyer01 Posts: 136, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #7

    Nov 13, 2009, 09:31 AM
    I received a kit and replaced the screen, the metering diaphragm, a gasket, and the fuel pump diaphragm but still have the same issue. It will start and run perfectly fine for about 5 seconds and then die. Any other ideas?

    Thanks,
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
     
    #8

    Nov 13, 2009, 09:54 AM

    Hi,
    Only one thing can be the cause; air getting into the system where it should not be. The view point(s) woulb be:
    1) Air causing an insufficient vacuum to run the pump side; caused by the mount flange that attaches to the crankcase and having the carb attached to it being loose.
    2) Air entering the metering side where it must always be liquid. This could be caused by a crooked gasket, folded diaphragm, check valve in the main jet not sealing completely at the right time. The last one has become the bane of the mechanic in recent years. Solved by spraying aerosol carb cleaner through it to clean it , and (this is Important) followed by WD40 or something like it to flush the carb cleaner out.
    3) A hole in a fule line, bubbles should be visible in this case.
    Peace,
    Clarke
    PatP2011's Avatar
    PatP2011 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #9

    May 9, 2011, 01:54 PM
    I have an old Craftsman leaf blower with the sme problem. Bought brand new old stock replaced fuel line and filter but gas doesn't seem to be coming back up. This unit does not have a primer bulb. I put fuel line on right side of carb in tube where old line seemed to be coming from... help!!

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Ran leaf blower without oil [ 13 Answers ]

My darling wife ran a Craftsman leaf blower with straight gas - no oil mixed in. It ran about 10 minutes then stopped. The starter cord will not pull. I took it apart and can see what is stopping the cord - 2 spring loaded arms are hitting a round, grooved plastic piece in such a way that it stops...

Leaf blower will not start [ 10 Answers ]

How do I get a 2 year old Craftsman leaf blower to start?

Gas Leaf Blower [ 5 Answers ]

I have a McCulloch 32cc Gas Blower.When I put the choke on it starts and then when I put it on run it dies out.

Echo leaf blower won't stay on [ 2 Answers ]

My echo leaf blower turns on but when I give it gas it gose off. Spark plug is new. Air filter is new to. I should add that it's about 6 years old and went a year with out the air filter while in use.

Leaf Blower [ 2 Answers ]

I have a leaf blower and I think I ran it with too little oil and now the cord will not pull through to start the machine. Is there anything I can do to fix that?


View more questions Search