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    t klassen's Avatar
    t klassen Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Nov 4, 2006, 12:00 PM
    Pressure relief switch
    I recently installed a new pressure relief switch onto the pressure system in our home. The switch works great and there is pressure going to the tank, but there is no pressure coming through the lines. :confused:
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #2

    Nov 4, 2006, 03:24 PM
    By "pressure relief switch" do you mean pump control box, (see image)?
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    t klassen Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Nov 4, 2006, 06:00 PM
    Yes that is exactly what it is. That switch is connect to my pump. The pressure tank we have is a whole separate unit, but is connected directly to the pump.
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    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #4

    Nov 4, 2006, 07:17 PM
    I am confused, and Tom may be too. Normally you have the tank, pump, pump control box, gauge, and supply to the house all connected together by a cross at the tank. Is that what you mean by the pump is connected directly to the tank? If you have pressure at the tank and not to the house, something is blocking the line between the tank and the house. You may need to take the line apart at the cross.
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    t klassen Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Nov 5, 2006, 10:03 AM
    Hi I'm sorry if I'm confusing. We have a holding tank for water outside of our house because we don't have a well yet. The line for the water comes inside our house, connects to the pump (that has the relief switch on it ) then the hose goes on to connect to the independent pressure tank. Now that being said we have managed to get some pressure to the house,but the problem now is not enough pressure i.e. if you use the washing machine you cannot use any of the other taps in the house. This was not the case before we changed the switch.
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    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #6

    Nov 5, 2006, 01:10 PM
    Where does the water in the holding tank come from? Just curious.
    You don't have a pressure problem as much as you have a volume problem. There simply isn't enough water to go around if you use two fixtures. The first thing I would check is every aerator in the house. If you find the screens full of crud get back to me.
    "This was not the case before we changed the switch."
    Then why did you change the switch?
    Do you have a pressure gage on the pressure side of the pump?
    Regards, Tom
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    t klassen Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Nov 5, 2006, 03:09 PM
    Hi. To answer the question of where the water comes from is that we haul the water to the farm from the city. We changed the pressure switch because the old one would not kick in properly it would sit in the basement and try to kick in and I didn't want to burn out the pump. So we tried to adjust it but it was so old and I was tired of babysitting the pump every time it kicked in. I've checked out the screens and there was a little bit of crud in them so I've cleaned them. There is enough pressure in the house that I can live with it but I won't be very tolerable, because it takes so long to fill the tub or do a load of laundry.p.s. I do have a gauge on my pump and the both sit at 40 psi
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #8

    Nov 5, 2006, 03:53 PM
    You have good pressure at the pump and pressure tank. So let's start from there. What material are the pipes? How old? Do you have good pressure at the first faucet from the pump? This is usually a hose bib. We'll track this down by the process of elimination. Cheers, Tom
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    t klassen Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Nov 5, 2006, 05:45 PM
    Hey, the pipes are pex pipe, and they are not even 1 year old (we just renovated an old farm house) all of the pipes, fixtures, and pressure tank are only 1 year old. The pressure at the first tap is the same as all of the other ones. I have had an uncle tell me that there is air in my lines somewhere, but wouldn't that come out when you ran the tap?
    Or shold I just buy a new pump, and tank and save us all a headache!!
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    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #10

    Nov 5, 2006, 08:40 PM
    Does the pressure cycle up and down when the pump runs? I was expecting Tom to tell you how to turn the pressure up, 40 sounds a little low to me.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #11

    Nov 6, 2006, 05:47 AM
    The factory settings on Square "D" pump control boxes are 20 cut in and 40 cut out or 30/50 PSI on a higher setting control box. Your pump is giving you the pressure the box is calling for.
    We have pressure at the pump and tank and reduced pressure when we get to the house. Hmmmm! I don't care if those Pex lines were installed yesterday. Something in that line's reducing the flow. Perhaps a kink or a obstruction somewhere but you have narrowed it down to the service between the pump and house. Start checking and get back to me. Regards, Tom
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    t klassen Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    Nov 6, 2006, 07:26 AM
    Hi, the pressure on the tank will go down to about 20 then the pump kicks in. it will charge itself up to about 50-60psi and then stay there until you use the water. In regards to turning the pressure up I do know how to do that (from constantly babysitting the other switch) ,but I have reservations that if I turn up the pressure too much it will blow the pressure tanks bladder and may even blow the pressure tank.. It says that it can hold about 220 psi but my husband says that we should only take it to about 100 psi. Doyou want me to turn up the pressure?? Tammy.
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    t klassen Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Nov 6, 2006, 07:31 AM
    Hi tom, the boys were recently framing the basement and accidentally hit the switch with a level,and they also took down the water lines for my washer . If the pex line got kinked (which I don't think it did ) do I have to replace the whole set of pipe or does it straighten itself out and not restrict the flow.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #14

    Nov 6, 2006, 07:42 AM
    Hi Tammy,

    "Doyou want me to turn up the pressure???" Noi, 50/60 PSI's plenty when you consider the average house pressure's 45 PSI, (that's why city water towers are 100 feet high). Besides, too much pressure puts a strain on fittings, joints and faucets.

    " If the pex line got kinked (which I don't think it did ) do I have to replace the whole set of pipe or does it straighten itself out and not restrict the flow.

    Tammy, it's for sure that something's blocking the flow between the pump and the house. The only thing to blame is the service line. It doesn't have to be in the middle of the run. It could be at either end. But wherever it is I will bet my bottom dollar that it's somewhere in the line. What else is there? There wouldn't be anything in the line like a check valve or a backflow preventer would there?
    Regards, Tom
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    t klassen Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #15

    Nov 6, 2006, 07:59 AM
    Hi Tom , no there is no check valve or backwater valve in the line anywhere. I' ll get to checking the lines once the kids go for a nap . Should I turn off the water disconnect the lines and blow air with the compressor through the lines? Couldn't hurt could it? Tammy
    t klassen's Avatar
    t klassen Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #16

    Nov 6, 2006, 07:47 PM
    Hey, took the pipe off to check for blockages, and there was none just clear water ran out of the pipe. Here's the hilarious part, put the pipes all back together and we have pressure again. Life is good.

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