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I have never used anything but structolite... see if you can find at a local plaster supply store. I'm thinking you could also use a bag of thinset mortar here (mix thick)... ;)
Otherwise, the bottom of the unit you have there looks to be reinforced pretty darn well... could probably install without any substrate bed... but substrate bed will be best overall job. Keep em' coming. |
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I live in very small town and all the store I went to they never heard of it and the only have this kind
And even I ask them about the polyehylene sheet they did not know what I am taliking about ,I have extra plastic sheet I used for insulation for my garage this one will work to |
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Hi Mark I did all the plumbing work as you told me and before I install the unit and plumb it I thought I should try the plumbing work I did so I run the water on kitchen sink and the water went down to the drain and fill the p trap with water wondering if this is normal Your advise please |
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Mortar mix will be fine at this point... ;)
In terms of the PTRAP filling with water from above I figure the pipe probably isn't pitched too much and it should be fine... I have seen traps fill exactly as you mentioned and all was OK. In post #16 I did say, "In my area you can't connect a shower or tub onto a drain line from a kitchen sink that comes from above" but I don't want you to worry at this point as I figure if the pipe clogs then you will simply need to UNCLOG it... ;) Anyway, keep going, sounds like you are doing fine! MARK |
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Hi Ozzie...
Certainly is possible, but you would need to move the cleanout, the wye and 45s up so you could fit a fitting into that space as 2" is not enough space to install a fitting. It would not hurt anything as you could at least install a sanitary tee fitting that has some flow direction to it... compared to a cleanout tee as it is... this may lessen the backflow. However, it wouldn't change that fact that you are attaching onto a kitchen sink drain line anyway... ;) That pipe is kitchen sink drain line EVEN UNDERGROUND... so changing fitting to sanitary tee not bad, but not perfect solution. The perfect solution, believe it or not, would be to install this drain into the underground piping at the toilet... or even at the lavatory pipe underground... but for now, as I said... I'd stick with what you have.. see how it works out. You can always chop up the floor and connect into a larger drain pipe if need be later. Glad to explain more if you decide to change that cleanout to a sanitary tee... let me know. MARK |
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In theory... it should not allow the waste to flow up the pipe as easily as the cleanout does... check out each fitting side by side... ;) I wonder if a wye and street 45 would even work better...hmmm..?
You can cut the pipes as marked in my pic. Below and then install the ABS sanitary tee fitting, raise the fittings up and use shielded clamps to connect all together. Here, the clamps get installed and the neoprene sleeves FOLD back on themselves in order to SLIDE the pipes back in place... then the neoprene sleeve FLIPS back onto the pipes and you SLIDE the shielded clamps over the sleeves and tighten all up... Let me know how you do... MARK |
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Hi Mark
As you told me I did install ABS sanitary tee fitting step by step as you said and before I install the shower on bed of mortar I run the water in the sink and dishwasher and the water went down the drain with no problem and even it did not go to to the pipe connected to the shower so I kept going and install the shower as you told me. Level it secure it every thing is done I am now working in install the faucet and the one I have does not say how big the hole it should to drill for it (Single-Handle ) Thank you |
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Hi Ozzie... good job! Glad to hear things are improved!
The shower valve should come with a plastic rough-in plate... you cut the hole the size of the rough-in plate.. usually! See pictures below. You can see the black plate in the 1st pic. And the white plate in the 2nd pic. The rough-in plate should say something like... "must be FLUSH with finish wall"... |
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