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    StaticFX's Avatar
    StaticFX Posts: 943, Reputation: 74
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    #1

    Aug 18, 2008, 05:51 AM
    Hot tub shorts breaker, won't start
    Ok, this one is driving me crazy. I have a marquis sports series 500 spa. 6 years old.
    We have had NO problems till now. I popped the breaker (*hit the test button), drained it, filled it, went to click it back on, and it won't. Click the breaker and it immediately trips and the breaker flips back off. I had my electrician check the breaker and he said its fine.

    So, the question is, how do I figure out what's gone bad in the hot tub? My guess is it's the heater, but really.. its odd how something broke between empty/fill.

    Thanks.
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #2

    Aug 18, 2008, 06:01 AM
    I think something got wet, Hopefully the electrician removed the load from breaker to test, next he should try with blower disconnected, motor disconnected, different items to determine leak to ground.
    StaticFX's Avatar
    StaticFX Posts: 943, Reputation: 74
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    #3

    Aug 18, 2008, 06:27 AM
    Well, I would rather not pay him to check all these things. I consider myself pretty handy. Are all the different components "plugged" in or hardwired? If they are plugged, then I could just disconnect the heater, try it, disco the pump, try it.. etc.

    I'm doubting it's a wetness thing now... the hot tub has sat for almost 2 months now, so unless its leaking (I could see any leak or wetness anywhere) then it should be dry.

    What would I need to test things once I discover the problem?

    Thanks!
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #4

    Aug 18, 2008, 07:02 AM
    Many do have individual connectors for each item, I would start with the motor.
    If not plug in, you could turn off power, disconnect pump, cap wire then test, repeat.
    It is possible 2 components are leaking to ground. When hooking up, do so 1 by 1, until it trips to determine. Usually 2 things don't fail at the same time.
    StaticFX's Avatar
    StaticFX Posts: 943, Reputation: 74
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    #5

    Aug 18, 2008, 07:03 AM
    OK, thanks. I will try it tonight!
    StaticFX's Avatar
    StaticFX Posts: 943, Reputation: 74
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    #6

    Aug 19, 2008, 05:39 AM
    Ok,

    Here is a rough diagram and a picture of the circuit board.
    I unplugged the 2 black wires (which lead to bolts the go into the metal tube) and the breaker doesn't trip anymore. From the diagram on the box, it looked like this was the heater.

    So, I guess my heater is bad? I noticed 2 fuses... but how can you tell if the fuses are bad since they are wrapped in a "cloth"?

    Anyway... is there a way to test if its really the heater?
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    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #7

    Aug 19, 2008, 06:26 AM
    Sounds like the heater. Measure resistance of each heater bolt(with power off and wires disconnected)to ground.
    Look for voltage on both sides of the fuse(s)
    StaticFX's Avatar
    StaticFX Posts: 943, Reputation: 74
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    #8

    Aug 19, 2008, 07:01 AM
    Sorry... I can do some electrical work, but don't understand all of it.

    So, I need to disconnect the wires from the heater "bolts" then hook a meter (what kind of meter?) from one bolt to the ground wire, then the other bolt to the ground wire?

    What am I looking for doing this?

    And to test the voltage, I would assume I leave the power off and check to see if power can flow through the fuses? Using.. a voltmeter?

    Thanks!!
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #9

    Aug 19, 2008, 03:17 PM
    Those 2 bolts connect to the Element, It should have Low ohms between both bolts(Ends) of the element, if it is open, it won't heat, also it will allow current to flow to ground, and trip GFI.
    You want to check for resistance between Heater housing and each bolt, Very High resistance is needed here.
    2 ways you can check fuses. 1 way have 1 or both ends free or circuit and with power off , measure resistance, and another way is with power on, thieir should be power to both sides of fuse, power to one side means it is blown(open).
    Try a Blow dryer around heater wiring/ connections to dry out, may get lucky.
    StaticFX's Avatar
    StaticFX Posts: 943, Reputation: 74
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    #10

    Aug 20, 2008, 07:08 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Stratmando
    Those 2 bolts connect to the Element, It should have Low ohms between both bolts(Ends) of the element, if it is open, it wont heat, also it will allow current to flow to ground, and trip GFI.
    You want to check for resistance between Heater housing and each bolt, Very High resistance is needed here.
    2 ways you can check fuses. 1 way have 1 or both ends free or circuit and with power off , measure resistance, and another way is with power on, thieir should be power to both sides of fuse, power to one side means it is blown(open).
    Try a Blow dryer around heater wiring/ connections to dry out, may get lucky.
    Doubting that.. lol has sat for 2 months.. its BONE dry in there. Lol

    OK... now I got to ask my buddies to see who's got some gadgets I can try this with.

    Thanks again... I'll post back with some data soon (I hope)
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #11

    Aug 20, 2008, 02:53 PM
    Without all the testing, with power off, disconnect heater, if it doesn't trip, just replace heater, 99% sure, without seeing.
    StaticFX's Avatar
    StaticFX Posts: 943, Reputation: 74
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    #12

    Aug 21, 2008, 05:48 AM
    Yeah, I did disconnect it... doesn't trip now.

    Sooo... is it hard to replace one of these?

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