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    EvNeedsHelp's Avatar
    EvNeedsHelp Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jul 4, 2008, 04:38 PM
    How to remove single valve handle - Delta Shower
    I've got the Seats & Springs to fix a leaky Delta Monitor 1400 Series faucet (and the water is turned off), and am stuck at the very beginning. The handle is a single lever, it appears that the Set Screw is missing. I've tried twisting the lever and pulling without success - not knowing which is the way it should come off, I'm afraid to put too much pressure on it.
    The "Escutcheon" came off easily, and the trim sleeve slides forward and back (a fraction of an inch), I assume I need the handle off to proceed.
    Help?
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 4,006, Reputation: 251
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    #2

    Jul 4, 2008, 04:52 PM
    The pictures below may help you.

    Regards,
    John
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    EvNeedsHelp's Avatar
    EvNeedsHelp Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jul 4, 2008, 04:56 PM
    Embarrassing to admit it, but my question is REALLY more basic - the valve (part #1 with the black square in your picture) - screw (#2) appears out, but I don't know whether to exert more pressure to PULL it off, or to TWIST it off (presumably counterclockwise).
    Thx
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #4

    Jul 4, 2008, 05:24 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by EvNeedsHelp
    it appears that the Set Screw is missing.
    That makes me think that you have not remove the screw. Note that it is probably recessed down in the hole and not flush with the surface.
    EvNeedsHelp's Avatar
    EvNeedsHelp Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jul 4, 2008, 05:49 PM
    I'm pretty sure there is no screw in there, I've shone my flashlight (tried to take a picture, not sure how to post it).
    By your answer/question, it should be very easy to remove (and obvious whether it's a twist or pull) if there is no screw in it?
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    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #6

    Jul 4, 2008, 06:10 PM
    I can't tell from picture, gets to distorted when I enlarge it. Insert allen wrench, starting with a small one then working up. When you get to proper size you will know it by feel. If screw was not there normal use would have loosened the handle. It should pull off if screw is loosened. Corrosion may be holding it on but unlikely. If you believe screw is out grasp handle by the tip and pull then push to rock handle back and forth. If corrosion is what is holding it own this will loosen and you will see movement around handle stem.
    EvNeedsHelp's Avatar
    EvNeedsHelp Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jul 4, 2008, 06:37 PM
    Neither worked - there isn't a lot of corrosion, and it doesn't budge when I pull it, so you're likely right and I just don't have the right size hex -or enough strength - almost broke the one that seemed to fit best, but no luck (my set it metric, maybe it needs imperial, or whatever non-metric is called).
    Thanks (:confused: and I thought this would be easy)
    Ev
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #8

    Jul 4, 2008, 08:19 PM
    If you allen wrench seamed to fit but was not the correct size then the set screw is in there. These days its hard to say when something will be metric or imperial. Just got to get the correct wrench.
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
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    #9

    Jul 5, 2008, 12:34 AM
    It is a small set screw. Sometimes it is hard to engage with allen wrench. Try again. Otherwise, the handle should pull out straight forward.
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 4,006, Reputation: 251
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    #10

    Jul 5, 2008, 01:14 AM
    Some time the set screw gets rusted please use some WD40 and leave it soaked for a few minutes then try the Allen wrench, good luck, Thanks.

    Regards,
    John
    EvNeedsHelp's Avatar
    EvNeedsHelp Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Jul 6, 2008, 03:18 PM
    WD40 is a wonderful thing! (yup, there was a hex nut in there, and I had the right size allen wrench).
    I finally got in, replaced the seats & springs, unfortunately still have a drip (did try the suggestions I see in other threads, from dog e dog, answered by speedball1, flushed the open valve, was very careful to have the seats flat on a clean smooth surface, etc), so next step is likely the whole valve assembly. (?)
    Thanks!
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
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    #12

    Jul 6, 2008, 03:25 PM
    I am assuming you inserted springs and cup-like washers the right way. If so, than try to tighten up the Adjustment Ring a bit. It is marked "A" in sketch #1, and marked #3 in sketch #2.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #13

    Jul 6, 2008, 03:32 PM
    If you can't get rid of that last drip you might want to try replacing the ball (part 6). A small scratch in the balls surface can cause a drip even thought the springs and seals have been replaced.
    EvNeedsHelp's Avatar
    EvNeedsHelp Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    Jul 6, 2008, 04:05 PM
    My mechanism doesn't seem to have those same parts... looks simpler than your diagram.
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    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #15

    Jul 6, 2008, 04:15 PM
    Then I'd go for replacing Part A and not just the springs and seats.
    hosuklover's Avatar
    hosuklover Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #16

    Jul 7, 2008, 12:54 PM
    U said there was a hex nut in there... with what did you take it out?
    The allen keys? Or was there some other tooll?
    I'm having the same problem
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 4,006, Reputation: 251
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    #17

    Jul 7, 2008, 02:13 PM
    Hi hosuklover,

    You need a small allen wrench to remove the set screw item #2 in the picture below, Thanks.

    Regards,
    John
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    hosuklover's Avatar
    hosuklover Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #18

    Jul 7, 2008, 03:16 PM
    I have the same problem as you , it's so ironic that's this is so recent like mine!
    I have a leaky shower spout so I went everywhere to home depot and other services told me the same thing. Replace the cartridegeor the o-rings...
    Got stuck on #1 on this diagram (above where is sais "Valve cartridege") didn't know how to take the rest out.. I believe that was the part for the cartridege..

    But my question to all of you is would it fix the leaky spout by replacing the whole faucet and the spout for a new one??

    That means got to spend like $200-$500 bucks on a plumber don't I?
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 4,006, Reputation: 251
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    #19

    Jul 7, 2008, 04:45 PM
    I don't think you will need to spend that much money if you have some tools and can turn wrenches, here are a lot of experts will lead you how to change the cartridge or the seals and will save you a lot of money, can you post the model number or a picture of you faucet will be great,Thanks.

    John
    EvNeedsHelp's Avatar
    EvNeedsHelp Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #20

    Jul 7, 2008, 06:28 PM
    Hi hosuklover,
    It was the WD40 (letting it soak) that made all the difference in removing the hex nut - from my first submissions, you can tell I was convinced there wasn't one there. The allen wrench that worked for me was a "#3 (I think that's 3mm) from my bicycle set. It was awkward, but worked.
    A web site that helped me then take all the pieces apart was (even though my handle was different, the rest was the same):
    Replacing Seals In A Delta Rotary Bath Faucet
    It also helped having another identical shower faucet, which I ended up taking apart when I got mixed up (note to self - pay REALLY close attention to how things work while removing the pieces - digital photos work, too). Believe me, if I can do this, so can you! (but I may end up having to call the plumber anyway if the next step, i.e. replacing the valve itself, doesn't work).
    GOod luck,
    Ev

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