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Home > Home & Garden > Tools & Power Equipment   »   12.5 briggs and stratton wont start

 
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Old Jul 1, 2006, 10:44 PM
subrock86
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12.5 briggs and stratton wont start

im rebuilding the engine on my murray, its a 12.5 horsepower power built. i have a brand new starter and the solonoid was replaced about a year ago, but it just clicks when i turn the key, if i hook up the starter and try and turn it over the solonoid clicks multiple times rapidly then wont click at all for about 5 mins or so, then will just click again when i turn the key, any ideas???

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Old Jul 2, 2006, 01:47 AM   #2  
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You have it wired backwards or something like that. Does the solenoid get hot when this happens
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Old Jul 2, 2006, 11:40 AM   #3  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demonspeeding_2005
You have it wired backwards or something like that. Does the solenoid get hot when this happens
the solonoid was replaced by my father about a year before the engine died, and the moter still turned over and ran fine, the solonoid doesnt get hot when it clicks (that ive noticed) and when holding the starter wire or having my hand on the solonoid i can feel a surge, wether the surge is power going through the wire, or the solonoid activating im not sure.
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Old Jul 2, 2006, 04:54 PM   #4  
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Are you sure it is ground properly
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Old Jul 2, 2006, 09:25 PM   #5  
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Is your battery in good shape; i.e., fully charged and terminals clean?
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Old Jul 4, 2006, 06:11 AM   #6  
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Make sure the battery is charged, and like above, the connections are clean..... (corroded connections WILL cause problems) now the battery is how old exactly? About 2 years is the lifetime for them.
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Old Jul 4, 2006, 08:34 PM   #7  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebriggsdude
Make sure the battery is charged, and like above, the connections are clean..... (corroded connections WILL cause problems) now the battery is how old exactly? About 2 years is the lifetime for them.
the battery is about a year old but it sat for most of that year without the lawnmower running, in the weather. It seems to have a full charge, but i myself think its the battery as well, aside from the starting problems upon reassembly im running into other problems, this is my first rebuild and when reattached the crankshaft to the flywheel, i pushed them together and tapped the key back into place, then tightened down the bolt, the connecting rod seemed to place fine on the crankshaft lobe, and everything spins just as it should, but when i bolt on the base of the motor with the bolts finger tight the crank wont spin no matter how much force i apply, its obviously some sort of clearance problem, but im not sure what, maybe the crank and flywheel wasnt put back together properly, if anyone has ever had a problem like this and can maybe help me out any info would be great. the engine is a 12.5 powerbuilt from a murry lawnmower, engine code 28V707.
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Old Jul 5, 2006, 09:42 AM   #8  
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Was the same thickness gasket installed?
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Old Jul 21, 2006, 07:57 AM   #9  
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I have the same motor on my Murray. Mine does that too. The battery is dead, so I jump it from another source & when I jump it, the starter clicks like that sometimes. I usually adjust the jumper cables & that does the trick. Make sure the wing-nuts that connect the battery cables to the battery are good & tight. I'd make sure to check all the other connections. That seems to be all it takes, just a bad connection sometimes. Hopefully thats all it is for you.

BTW, I'm in the middle of repairs on my 12.5 B&S too. I just got done changing a broken connecting rod. It started right away after re-assembly & I let it run for about 45 sec. before shutting it down. Then I tried to start it again, now it wont start. I think I may have dislogged some junk in the carb when I had the motor apart & am going to take the carb apart tonight & see if that helps. I know I'm getting tired of tinkering on this thing!! I feel your pain!! LOL Good Luck!
Rob
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Old Jul 21, 2006, 08:09 AM   #10  
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Sorry to post again so soon, I just got thinking....
When I put the new connecting rod in my motor (the same as yours) I had to turn the whole connecting rod 180 degrees after my first try. The way I had the rod mounted to the crank the fist time, the back end of the rod would hit the inside of the crank case. So, like I said, I spun it 180 degress, & it re-attached it to the crank & then it cleared. Luckily, I spun the crank by hand before I put it all together so, I could see exactly what I had done. This could be a possibility for you. Hope this helps & again good luck.

Rob
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