[jih]

I have an unfinished basement and I am planning to do the following:
1. install a french drain around the entire perimeter.With an opening along the base of the wall to catch any seepage that drips down the wall.
2. move the washer and dryer 25 feet from the sewer line.NOTE: the sewer line is about 4 feet off the ground
3. add a sink near the washer/dryer
4. Install a drain in the floor near the hot water heater and boiler to catch the water from any potential leaks

Can I do the following:
1. Install an injector pump
2. remove my existing sump pump that is in the middle of the floor (not used in 14 years, it is not located anywhere near where the water accumulates)
3. have the french drain, the washing machine, the sink and the floor drain by the hot water heater all go into the ejector tank and be pumped into my sewer line.

Does this have to be vented? If it does I think I have an original vent from the old septic system that vents to the roof that is mid way from where I want to place the ejector pump and the sewer connection.

I plan to place my front loading washer on a platform 13 inches above the floor. I prefer not to have it dump the water into the sink so that I can use both at the same time.

Are there trays to place under the washer to catch any leaks and have it drain into the ejector tank as well?

Also how low should the tank be installed? Should the top of the tank be flush with the floor? How deep should the hole be and should it be cement lined so ground water does not accumulate in it.

What should the tank be constructed of, how big should it be and what size pump should I get?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-JIH

[Glenn]

Why are you putting the washer on a 13" platform? The pump inside the washer can lift the discharged water up to the level that the ejector pump would. This would mean you wouldn't have to pump the water twice (once to the ejector pump, then up to the sewer line). It might take bit of the burden off the ejector pump.

Glenn

[jih]

The washer and dryer are front loading machines. It is easier to load and unload. The manufacture sells bases that add 13 inches but they are expensive.

[labman]

I question putting the French drain into the sewer line. If you still have a septic tank, it could over load it. If you are on city sewer now, it violates code. Better to move the sump pump to a new sump in a corner and pump it out on ground sloping away from the house. Code could require a sump pump, ever needed or not.

I would line the tank. An easy way would be set a tile vertically and pour a bottom in it.

I will leave the vent question for Tom.

[speedball1]

Labman's right, You can't make your septic tank and your drainfield into a storm sewer. First it's illegal and second the first coulpe of days of rain will overload the drainfield making it imposable to carry off house sewerage. The holding tank will have to be vented. Unlike a house vent the just pulls in air this vent will both pull air in and push air out.
You won't need a washer pan since I've never heard of one rupturing.
I suggest you move the sump over to where the water accumulates and have the french drain along with the sump pump discharge drain into a dry well or a convenient ditch. Keep both away from your septic system.
A floor drain isn't necessary. I realize you're jumpy about leaks but the floor drain on a ejector system it's overkill. The only thing that "might" develop a leak is the water heater and the heater pan and drain will cover that. As for the tank size. What is your estimated usage"? You know it's got to be bigger then what the washer discharges. Would you like me to give you some links for manufactured holding tanks? Cheers, Tom

[jih]

I really appreciate the quick responses to my questions. I agree with your suggestion about keeping and relocating the sump pump and having the french drain feed into it. It is against code in my community to have it drain into the sewer. My septic system was disconnected many years ago and no longer exists. To avoid ground water rising into the sump pit should it be cement lined? And how deep should it be? I guess I really do not understand the difference between a sump pump and an ejector pump. As to my hot water heater and hot water heating system they both sit on the floor, no pan or drain is under them. Since they are against a wall could I put a row of brick around them on three sides and have any potential leaks drain into the french drain? As to usage figure frequent extra large loads of wash and infrequent use of the sink. To reach the sewer line the ejector pump will have to push the water up 8 feet to the ceiling and then 23 feet horizontally across the room and then 4 feet down to the sewer line. Suggestions as to size of pump and tank and diameter of pipe to the sewer line would be appreciated.
Thanks
Jeff

[labman]

Bigger tanks and pipe don't cost near as much more as bigger pumps. Check the price of 2'' and 4'' DWV PVC. Pumping water up 8' in a 4 inch pipe should only take about 5 psi. Make the tank plenty big, and let the pump run for a while to empty it. A small pump running longer cycles may actually last longer then a big pump kicking on and off all the time.

[jih]

Should the tank go below the floor or does under the sink suffice? Also the walls are made of stone and have been painted with thoroseal which is flaking off. Any suggestions on what to do?

[labman]

I don't think a very big tank will fit under the sink. A small tank could back up into the sink if the washer discharged right after you drained the sink. I even though about a flat tank under the platform for the washer. What sort of a tank are you thinking of? Do they come with the pumps? What about buying one of the large agricultural molded plastic tanks and burying it under the floor? It would likely last forever, although a pain to replace. It sounds like much of the floor will be torn up in the project.

[jih]

Thanks for the advice. Here is what I did.
1. french drain around the entire preimiter of the basement draining into it's own plastic tank in the floor with a sump pump that discharges the water into a pipe that takes it away from the house.
2. At the base of the basement door to the exterior is a drain that runs the full width of the floor. This is tied into the french drain.
3. The washer and a sink will drain independently into a tank under the sink with an ejector pump that is vented through the roof and tied into the waste pipe. What size tank and pump do you suggest?
4. A pan will be placed under the hot water heater and a pan may be placed under the washing machine. Each pan will drain into the french drain.

Do you think I covered all the bases?
Once again thanks for the advice.
JIH

[speedball1]

[QUOTE=jih]Thanks for the advice. Here is what I did.
1. french drain around the entire preimiter of the basement draining into it's own plastic tank in the floor with a sump pump that discharges the water into a pipe that takes it away from the house.
2. At the base of the basement door to the exterior is a drain that runs the full width of the floor. This is tied into the french drain.
3. The washer and a sink will drain independently into a tank under the sink with an ejector pump that is vented through the roof and tied into the waste pipe. What size tank and pump do you suggest?
4. A pan will be placed under the hot water heater and a pan may be placed under the washing machine. Each pan will drain into the french drain.

Do you think I covered all the bases?
Once again thanks for the advice.
JIH[/QUOTE

The size of the pump and holding tank will be determined by the discharge and only you know how many times you wash a week or how much use the sink will get. But this may help.
An average sump pit is approximately 18 Inches across and every inch of water is approximately one gallon. During a busy period, place a yardstick against the side of the sump pit immediately after the primary pump finishes a pumping cycle. Just touch the surface of the water with it, and hold it there. Using a watch, count off one minute and pull the yardstick out. Take the number of inches the water rose during that time and multiply by 60. This will be a reasonable estimate of the amount of water that would come in during an hour of steady usage. Now double that figure to account for the water coming in while the pump is removing it. For example, let's say that in a minute, the water rose 6 inches. That 6 inches times 60 equals 360 gallons per hour, times 2 equals 720 gallons per hour of pumping needed. This assumes there is already a full hour's worth of water sitting under the floor before your backup system even starts.
I consider the wash machine pan to be un necessary but it's a nice touch. They do leak sometimes and you've covered all the bases. Tom