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    idahonewlywed's Avatar
    idahonewlywed Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    May 22, 2010, 02:23 PM
    I had the same problem with my state select water heater. After replacing both upper and lower elements I found that it was the upper thermostat. My problem is this: The new thermostat has a slightly different configuration than my old one. This is all Home Depot and Lowe's carried.

    My wire that comes up from the bottom thermostat is about two inches too short to reach the new input on the upper thermostat. I tried pulling it through since there was slack on the bottom end.. but couldn't get anywhere. (at the Home Depot crews suggestion) I'm guessing it is glued pretty tight.. I even started to strip the wire slightly from where I was pulling.

    I took a metal bracket from the old thermostat, and used that to gap the difference between the screw power inlet and the wire. It seems to be working for now.

    My question is this: Is this dangerous? Right now as it sits... there is a half cm exposed wire from where I was trying to pull the wire through with pliers. And the end of the wire is now connected to the bracket from my old thermostat. Which is then connected to where the wire should normally go into...

    Any input here? I've heard of water heaters being the cause of fires and whatnaught...

    Thanks

    I have a problem with my state select water heater. After replacing both upper and lower elements I found that the problem wasn't the elements... it was the upper thermostat. My problem is this: The new thermostat has a slightly different configuration than my old one. This is all Home Depot and Lowe's carried.

    My wire that comes up from the bottom thermostat is about two inches too short to reach the new input on the upper thermostat. I tried pulling it through since there was slack on the bottom end.. but couldn't get anywhere. (at the Home Depot crews suggestion) I'm guessing it is glued pretty tight.. I even started to strip the wire slightly from where I was pulling.

    I took a metal bracket from the old thermostat, (the metal piece that secured the upper and lower portions of the upper thermostat) and used that to gap the difference between the screw power inlet and the wire. It seems to be working for now.

    My question is this: Is this dangerous? Right now as it sits... there is a half cm exposed wire from where I was trying to pull the wire through with pliers. And the end of the wire is now connected / touching the bracket from my old thermostat. Which is then connected to where the wire should normally go into...

    Any input here? I've heard of water heaters being the cause of fires and whatnot..

    Thanks
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #2

    May 22, 2010, 03:54 PM

    Which wire is too short?




    What do you mean.
    Tried pulling it through since there was slack on the bottom end.. but couldn't get anywhere. (at the Home Depot crews suggestion) I'm guessing it is glued pretty tight..
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    idahonewlywed's Avatar
    idahonewlywed Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    May 22, 2010, 06:31 PM

    The Black wire that goes from the bottom thermostat, up to the top thermostat... that connects on the lower left screw of the top thermostat.
    idahonewlywed's Avatar
    idahonewlywed Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    May 22, 2010, 06:32 PM

    Sorry, lower right screw if you are looking at it from the front.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #5

    May 22, 2010, 07:44 PM

    Get a piece of 12/2 Romex cable, strip the sheathing and use the black wire to replace the wire. Don't understand part about trying to pull it through and it being glued.
    idahonewlywed's Avatar
    idahonewlywed Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    May 22, 2010, 07:55 PM

    I can email you a picture if you'd like.. I don't know how to paste one here using urls...

    I cannot pull the wire up or down through the water heater.

    Picture a rope going inside a wall and the base and then back out of it above it... this wire doesn't move freely like the rope would... I don't know if it is supposed to.. but the guy at home depot said it should.

    So you are suggesting I get a piece of 12/2 romex cable, strip it, and use that as an extension? Then use electrical tape to cover it back up?
    idahonewlywed's Avatar
    idahonewlywed Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    May 22, 2010, 07:56 PM

    **at the base
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #8

    May 22, 2010, 08:03 PM
    After giving a little thought I think I understand. The wire may be clamped somewhere behind the outer covering where you can't get to. I wouldn't think it would be, however.

    You need a meter and check that wire. Disconnect both ends of the wire. Check for continuity between each end. You should have continuity. Then check for continuity between each end of the wire and the outer shell and for continuity between the wire and the inner tank. You should not have continuity. If you do, it means you have a short between the wire and the tank. The wire may be welded to the tank buy a previous short.

    If the wire checks out OK, just add a short piece of 12 gauge wire to it with a wire nut.

    If everything doesn't check out OK. Get the black wire out of the Romex cable and push it down between the insulation and the outer shell from the top thermostat to the bottom. Cap ends of old wire with wire nuts.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #9

    May 22, 2010, 08:07 PM
    To post pic, upload to computer, change to JPEG format. Make posting of at least 2 charters. Click on "Go Advanced " button below, scowl down and click on manage attachments, browse for pic, click open, click upload.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #10

    May 22, 2010, 08:24 PM

    More thought. I don't see how manufacturer could have clamped that wire. Only place it could have been clamped would be to one of the bolts or screws holding the heating element in. You would be able to see that. Manufacturer would have not penetrated the tank to install another screw. Makes me believe you had a short and the wire is welded to the tank or the outer jacket.

    That should cause circuit breaker to trip.
    idahonewlywed's Avatar
    idahonewlywed Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    May 22, 2010, 10:08 PM
    Here are two Pictures:

    A little more information-- the water would get very very hot before shutting down. I felt the tank on the top and the bottom, where the thermostat touches... and the bottom was normal, but the top was boiling hot. I figured it was a bad thermostat on the top because I had already switched out both elements thinking it was that.

    Both wires coming from the bottom element to the top element are not able to move. I just bought this house a year ago... and someone might have done some work on this tank? Maybe spraying some sort of foaming adhesive? Would both wires short and weld to the tank?

    I will get a multimeter and check the wires. Thanks for your help on this!

    Is it dangerous to leave the water heater set up as is for now?

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    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #12

    May 23, 2010, 04:32 AM

    If circuit breaker doesn't trip you should be OK to use until you get the meter. But please do get one and check things out. I can't imagine what or why anyone would be doing that result in this.

    Assuming you go to Home Depot or Lowe's to get meter, just go back to the electrical section and buy a about 2 foot of THHN 12 gauge wire and wire nuts. Cut black wire just above the break in insulation and add new wire with wire nut.

    Yes, the top thermostat works first, when it is satisfied the bottom comes on so the top of the tank will get hot before the bottom. Shouldn't be "boiling hot", thermostat looks to be set at about 120 degrees.

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