[megnut]

I have 10 year old linoleum in a small bathroom and would like to tile over it with a 6x6 slate type tile. What materials can I use and how do I go about doing it?

[ac101]

You can but I strongly recommend using a tile backer board over the linoluem. Assuming of course you have a wood subfloor underneath. If you have a concrete subfloor then I would just remove the old linoluem. Ive included a link that is fairly good for the basics but I think they leave out a few things. If your going to do this yourself you will need some tile tools which you can rent . Doing your own tile can be rewarding but it can also be a real pain in the neck.Look over the link and if you decide to do it yourself post back and we will try to help you through it. GOOD LUCK, AC

http://www.ronhazelton.com/howto/bat...floor_tile.htm

[ballengerb1]

I agree with ac101, I would no do it for hire or recommend anyone else do it. You may not be 100% sure exactly what you have, it could even be sheet vinyl. You need a base that is smooth, flat and will allow tile mortar to bite. Glueing and screwing Hardibacker to the floor is the safest start, 1/4" should do it and glue with modified thinset.

[21boat]

I agree with all the above. everything here is perfect good Job!
Megunt tear it out this will insure 100% that the sub floor is sound!
On our jobs sayings we use "when in doubt tear is out."many bathrooms if on ply floors usually have been exposed to a leak or a toilet overflow. The wax ring on a toilet can have a very small leak and get in and around the closet flange that there. Even on a second floor it doesn't always show up so take up the old floor to see if its sound now is the time to do it

Signed 21 Boat

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[Bljack]

Megnut, you need to remove the vinyl. Not only that, but if this is over a wood subfloor, you also need to remove any 1/4" underlayment used for the vinyl so the best thing to do is pry up the underlayment with the vinyl still attached. For stone installations, the only way to ensure there is sufficient strength between the joists is to add second layer of plywood, 1/2" to 5/8" be graded plywood as determined by the actual subfloor thickness. THen thee is the issue with our joists. Stone requries a supporting joist structure that is 2x as strong as what is requried for ceramic so unless stone is spec'd at the time of design, then in most every case, your room isn't sufficient for a stone install.

Only after those conditions are met, will you be able to proceed with a layer of 1/4" cbu of your choice or tile membrane. If you do go with a cement board, It is NEVER glued. It gets set into a bed of thinset to give it an evenly supporting bedding layer. The only exception is Hardibacker, whick gets glued with a fully troweled layer of adhesive only when used as an underlayment for vinyl.

Any chance you know the joist size, spacing and span and the exact makeup of your subfloor?