[Woosh]

I have a 1992 Honda Civic LX sedan with a D15 1.5 liter SOHC, Non-VTEC.
Just recently, I was driving one night and I heard a clunk from the rear followed by another, both after taking a turn, then the car just slowly died and more throttle didn't have an affect. From that point on, the car just cranks but doesn't run in any way. I had the car towed back home and checked the obvious things and what I could test. I suspected it was the fuel pump because of the clunks I heard from the rear but the fuel pump does in fact work, there is spark for all 4 cylinders, the main relay works, the TPS is working, and the MAP sensor is working. I don't have a way to check fuel pressure but there is fuel running through the lines, from the filter and to the pressure regulator. The only thing I can think it might be is the PCV valve and/or hose/s. Other than that I have no idea what the problem is. BTW, this is the first time this happened and the car ran fine prior to that day with no signs that anything might happen later. So if anybody knows, help would be appreciated...thx.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Perform tests in Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

. Test compression of each cylinder.

. Check timing belt for slippage.

[Woosh]

. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Perform tests in Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

. Test compression of each cylinder.

. Check timing belt for slippage.

Hey, thanks for the quick reply and for these suggestions. Unfortunately my vehicle is still not running. I've checked every fuse and relay both under the hood and under the dash and they're all good & working including the Main relay (It clicked twice on & off when turning the key). My Check Engine Light never came on (except for the 2 seconds when turning the key to ON), but I jumped the service connector with a paper clip and checked for codes anyway and there was none. As I said before, all spark plugs are firing, there is fuel running through and the injectors are working along with the sensors (MAP, TPS, etc.). I checked the timing belt and that was fine. So I did a compression test like you suggested and these are the results... Cyl 1: 175PSI, Cyl 2: 170PSI, Cyl 3: 155PSI, Cyl 4: 80PSI. They all held pressure at those numbers, but I'm sure that means something bad due to cylinder 4 being low and the difference of that among the others. I'd do a cylinder leak down test but I don't have that tester. I really hope the problem isn't too severe. Anyway thanks for the help.

[cdad]

Hey, thanks for the quick reply and for these suggestions. Unfortunately my vehicle is still not running. I've checked every fuse and relay both under the hood and under the dash and they're all good & working including the Main relay (It clicked twice on & off when turning the key). My Check Engine Light never came on (except for the 2 seconds when turning the key to ON), but I jumped the service connector with a paper clip and checked for codes anyway and there was none. As I said before, all spark plugs are firing, there is fuel running through and the injectors are working along with the sensors (MAP, TPS, etc.). I checked the timing belt and that was fine. So I did a compression test like you suggested and these are the results... Cyl 1: 175PSI, Cyl 2: 170PSI, Cyl 3: 155PSI, Cyl 4: 80PSI. They all held pressure at those numbers, but I'm sure that means something bad due to cylinder 4 being low and the difference of that among the others. I'd do a cylinder leak down test but I don't have that tester. I really hope the problem isn't too severe. Anyway thx for the help.

Opps.. sorry to say but you need to run a wet dry compression test to see what's going on or just take it apart. 175 high and an 80 low indicates a seviere problem. Normal range for compression test is no more then 10% between cylinders.

A wet dry compression test means testing the cylinders dry ( as is with nothing added ) and wet ( 1 or 2 shots of oil from an oil can ). That test will determine if your problem is in the top ( head area ) or bottom ( rings & pistons )
If compression remains the same on the wet test in the low cyl it means your problem is on the top side.
Hope that helps.

[cax11]

Check the current at th fuel injectors, this most likely would be a bad ecm/ecu(engine control unit), try getting one off another car and plug it up remembering to hook up the grounds, and try starting or get a 12v light tester an checking for pulses

[Woosh]

I have a 1992 Honda Civic LX sedan with a D15 1.5 liter SOHC, Non-VTEC.
Just recently, I was driving one night and I heard a clunk from the rear followed by another, both after taking a turn, then the car just slowly died and more throttle didn't have an affect. From that point on, the car just cranks but doesn't run in any way. I had the car towed back home and checked the obvious things and what I could test. I suspected it was the fuel pump because of the clunks I heard from the rear but the fuel pump does in fact work, there is spark for all 4 cylinders, the main relay works, the TPS is working, and the MAP sensor is working. I don't have a way to check fuel pressure but there is fuel running through the lines, from the filter and to the pressure regulator. The only thing I can think it might be is the PCV valve and/or hose/s. Other than that I have no idea what the problem is. BTW, this is the first time this happened and the car ran fine prior to that day with no signs that anything might happen later. So if anybody knows, help would be appreciated...thx.

Hey, thanks for the help everyone. Turns out the ignition coil wasn't producing enough current for a good spark.
Got that replaced and now the engine is running just fine.