[pwd77]

I would like the easiest route from a standard angle stop to a copper pipe (then to PEX). This is for a toilet supply.

I would like to use a standard angle stop and screw it to a copper pipe, and use Shark Bite or Watts quick-connect to connect it to the PEX. I want to avoid using another direct-to-PEX fitting.

Looking at angle stops, my choices seem to be sweat-on, CPVC, FIP thread, and perhaps compression. Threaded pipe seems to be NPT, the same as sweat on threads, if I am not mistaken. Are NPT and FIP compatible?

An easy solution would be sweat on threads to a copper pipe; the angle stop threads on one end, and a quick-connect connects it to PEX on the other. Then I have a copper pipe I can anchor to a stud.

Thank you!

[pwd77]

I may have answered my own question: compression fittings.

(This link clued me in)

Looks like a standard compression fitting ((5/8"?) may be the easiest route to get an angle stop onto 1/2" copper pipe.. Can compression fitting be used with "hard" copper pipe, or must it be softer copper "tubing?" Correct me if I have things wrong here.

Obviously still need some help here...

[massplumber2008]

PWD77

If you want a chrome finish on your entire shutoff, can use:

1) 5/8"O.D. compression stop with chrome flange

2) 1/2" copper x 3/8" IPS female adapter on a copper street 90 flush with finish wall and then install 3/8" chrome threaded nipple, threaded shutoff and chrome flange

3) 1/2" copper "sweat" chromed extension stop with bell flange...(see pics. below).

These all allow copper tube to be hung to stud.

At the PEX end...I am unclear here.

I would just sweat a 1/2" copper x pex adapter and then adapt to pex as usual. I don't like the idea of compression fitting behind the wall... all hidden and such... ;)

I am not familiar enough with the sharkbite fittings to say if they are allowed behind a wall... I look at these as more for repair work then for new plumbing installation... but I am older school soldering and would not even try the PEX piping systems until just a year or so ago.. so maybe I am not best to advise on sharkbite fittings... ;)

Anyway, tell me why "not direct to pex" fitting..? I think direct to pex inside wall is best.

Get back to us... Mark

[ac101]

I agree with massplumber a good sweat joint with the adapter is what I would do compression fittings closed up behind walls are scary and in my area aren't allowed by code not sure whether the sharkbites are allowed or not.I have used sharkbite fittings several times for repairs but haven't been brave enough to close any up behind walls or anything . Although I will say in exposed areas especially narrow crawl spaces they are great. I did install a couple of sharkbites under a utility sink in my garage almost a year now and no leaks but time will tell.

[pwd77]

Thanks Mark & AC, this is good information.

My main misunderstanding is how to get from 1/2" copper pipe to the angle stop, and my options are now well laid out thanks to Mark. I guess I'll know for sure when I go back to the store and try to put this all together.

From what I have read online, both SharkBite and Watts push-fit connectors are allowed for behind wall installation. (I suppose that will vary with local codes.) They do make it very easy for the DIY-er with a few changes to make, and a mix of copper and PEX (well, CPVC too, but that is another story)

I am not fond of PEX crimp fittings because they reduce the ID so much at the junction. The push-fit connectors preserve the inner diameter (well, almost).

[massplumber2008]

Hey Pwd77...

Excellent point on the pex sizing! Why I always use 3/4" PEX to act as 1/2" water line... ;) Exactly as you said... push-fit connectors preserve inner diameter... why I run 3/4" PEX to replace 1/2" copper! Great observation!

Since you probably didn't run 3/4" pex, and you seem quite sure of shark bite and watts fittings behind wall OK... then I would go with that!

Let us know how it goes! Mark

[pwd77]

I always use 3/4" PEX to act as 1/2" water line... I run 3/4" PEX to replace 1/2" copper!

Great idea, I think I'll do that myself! On my NEXT house.:eek:

[massplumber2008]

Hey again!

I know it! That stinks huh..

If you look at the cross sectional area of the inside diameter(I.D.) of 3/4" pex fitting, an elbow for example, it is about the same as the I.D. of 1/2" copper pipe.

Would be nice if they made that clearer... huh?

I am sure you will be fine, though... very few complaints reported regarding this issue. More of a problem with undersizing sprinkler systems then with water main issues.

Hope all goes well... Mark

[pwd77]

One thing I would like to find out someday soon is how these different variables affect flow. Is a 1/4" ID fitting in 3/8" ID PEX just as bad as having the whole length 1/4"? Does it cut the flow by only (x)%?

Does it matter?

My guess is that 3/4" PEX main line with fittings going to 1/2" PEX with fittings cuts flow significantly compared to analogous copper, BUT is not very noticeable to the average homeowner, as you suggest.

On the other hand, running 3/4" PEX between a 1" main and a 1" sprinkler would likely have severe effect on the sprinkler system, as you have also suggested.

Looks like you have confirmed my suspicions, which is helpful.

Oh, by the way, for 1 data point, I spoke with a neighbor (very handy guy) who has used the Watts plastic push-fit, and HAS observed leaks when there are pressure fluctuations. I am scratching them off the list, and shall stick with SharkBite, or perhaps the brass Watts push fit.

Its been great "chatting" with you, Mark!

Pete