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Home > Home & Garden > Pools - Spas & Saunas   »   Hayward H150 Pool heater

 
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Old Jan 13, 2008, 07:18 AM
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Hayward H150 Pool heater

Hello - all,

My son and I are trying to get an H150, back on-line. Jim does the gas work, I watch over his shoulder and annoy him.

Any way, All of the switches in the array on the inside panel have been replaced. The pilot light is lit, however, the main gas flow does not kick in to allow the heater to heat the influx of water.

Four of the switches are normally closed switches. One switch, however, the pressure switch looks as if it is a normally closed switch held open.

How do I get this unit functional before the customer's "Coy" fish tanks get too cold to keep the fish alive.

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Old Jan 13, 2008, 12:13 PM   #2  
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Hey Don, just want to be sure I have read correctly. Customer is using a pool heater on a Coy pond?? In my neck of the woods we use a 120v floating puck heater like farmers use in their watering troughs. It only kicks on when the temp is below 32. Can't be off any help with your actual question, sorry.
Bob
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Old Jan 14, 2008, 07:00 AM   #3  
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Bob,

Here in Virgina Beach, It can still 70 on Monday and 30 on Tuesday.

I'm starting to think that it's either a thermostat problem OR the water is being held a a temperature higher then the H150's thermostat will go.

If the water is a 60 and the thermostat only go up to 55, it will never turn on. So, I need to jump the thermostat and hot wire the unit to get it to come on.

Lord knows I like a challenge that makes me think.
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Old Jan 14, 2008, 09:24 AM   #4  
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The reason I was asking is we usually only heat the water so it doesn't freeze, that keeps the coy alive. We never try to keep the temp up to room temp. It just isn't need to keep Coy heathy. It could be that your water temp is already too high for the upper limt of your stat, like you suspect.

Bob
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Old Jan 14, 2008, 11:06 AM   #5  
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The pressure switch has oil in it where the copper tube meets the switch it should come apart if theres not enough oil in copper tube it wont come on thats what makes the switch work. You can take it apart and add 50 grade oil with a small syringe you push the oil into the tube and then put it together quickly not to loose oil, it dosnt take much oil, i do it every spring before i start my pool up. because before winter i have to take it apart so if there was any water in it , it wouldnt ruin the switch if the water froze in it.
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Old Jan 14, 2008, 12:45 PM   #6  
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According to my son, Thank you for this gift, Lord," all of the switches are new.

I know that in and by itself being new and working are two very diverse terms.

Is there any way to bypass the kluge of switches just to see if the units light's off?

It would be my pure pleasure to prove that his diagnostic skills can help him resolve a problem that, smashing with a hammer and cursing at can't
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Old Jan 14, 2008, 07:12 PM   #7  
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no way to bypass it that i know of, its sort of a safty switch to prove that you have water flowing through the tubes so you dont burn the heater up witch you would do if you didnt have water flowing through it.
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Old Jan 16, 2008, 04:38 PM   #8  
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Bypass the water so that the pool water is passing through the heater. If the pressure switch does not activate, then replace it. It is also worth noting that these heaters come with an adjustable pressure switch for installations at different altitudes ASL. Often this needs to be calibrated slightly and presto - the heater fires.

I hope this information is helpful

Steve Goodale
Serendipity Pools & Artificial Rock
Vancouver, BC
604-421-8429
1-888-267-0802

Comments on this post
ballengerb1 agrees: good man to have arounf AMHD
donf agrees: Thank you, I'll add this to the list of things to test!
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