I'm installing a shower in my finished basement and noticed some lines were 1/2" and some 3/4". What size is best to use for the shower for good water flow?
Also, are solder joint valves better or threaded?
Gate valve or ball valve?
Thanks,
Dave

G13_13

I just recently renovated my home with the same sort of issue. I went with the standard 1/2 " and used all gate valves as they tend to not build up with calcium and others deposits as the ball valve tends too. I never used threaded pipes in a long time, I mostly used this with galvinized piping and now remove ware possible and solder.

good luck

ballengerb1

Where do you plan to install those valves?? Showers usually don't have shut offs but you are welcome to do it if you want. 3/4" pipe is best for most shower mixers but you just can't go back up to 3/4 if you are tapping into a 1/2" existing supply. I'd stay with copper and soldering rather than threaded galvanized but thats just me.

Dave Ermeling

Thanks so much for the input guys. Well, I was planning on putting the valves up in the area above my drop ceiling just after where I tap into the existing lines. There is a 3/4" cold water line and a 1/2" hot water line. I will probably use soldered gate valves I just don't want to damage the seals with the heat.

ballengerb1

Did not know you had a drop ceiling so your service shut offs will work. You'll need to run a 1/2" supply line for both hot and cold. If you are worried about soldering consider compression connections.

KeepItSimpleStupid

If you do it right and if you have an access panel, try to arrange that the valves are accessible from the drop ceiling and the access panel. They may not be easily accessable, but they can be accessible nonetheless.

massplumber2008

Hi Dave....my opinion now....but I would go with the 1/2" copper pipe and fittings (solder type or compression) and also with solder type ball valves. Very rarely have I seen any issues with these ball valves.

OR just purchase a shower valve with integral shutoffs...here, shutoffs are built right into valve so that all you need to do in future is remove the face plate and shut off stops...then work from there.

Do not forget to remove stem assembly before soldering the shower valve and then you will want to purge/pulse the water through the valve (catch/cover valve with rag when doing this) before replacing the stem. That should remove all foreign debris and assure that your washers last a long time. Any questions, just let us know.

Just my opinion. Take care.